Winch, big charger for house batteries, new 24v roof top AC.
Wiring is cheaper, and high power devices run better on 24V. Long runs lose less on 24V. Running at 15000# rear winch on 12v is really pushing the limit.
And, of course, it will be a separate system. Cab will have 12v and 120v, camper will have 24v and 120v available.
If you guage the wire properley the winch in the back will not be any problems. Now if you get a 24 volt alternator where are you planning on putting your two other batteries?
You could put it where the second alt goes in a dual setup.
That would be a good idea, but trying to find a 24v alternator that will bolt up without major modifications would be a problem. You could possibly have one of the aftermarket alternator companies custom build you one out of a stock alternator though.
I also agree on the 24v vs 12v issue, the higher power inverters want 24v input and the wiresize is cut in half for 24v loads. Much more efficent.
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2002 F350 CC SB Lariat 7.3 4x4 3.73 LS
Torredor Red, Viper 5701
If you guage the wire properley the winch in the back will not be any problems. Now if you get a 24 volt alternator where are you planning on putting your two other batteries?
Jim
6 batteries in the camper.
There must be alternators that use a custom bracket. Just about everything that handles a lot of power comes in 12v and 24v versions. There's supposedly a good efficiency jump, especially off solar panels. Charging a large battery bank should work better too
What about going with a generator that would come off the PTO drive on the transmission.
The truck needs to be stopped to use the PTO. The PTO generators are also loud. The smaller ones generate about 15kw - much more than I need.
The stationary problem is also with PTO hydralic. That's an alternative to 24v for some applications .
Apparently the engine can produce about 40HP through the PTO without overheating. The ECM will allow fast idle and manage power/rpm until engine temp exceeds the max, the it goes to regular idle.
I would like a small diesel generator, but these are pretty loud. Not like the gas Hondas.
A 24v alternator with a good regulator feeding a battery bank seems the best choice, at this point.
If you are really serious about this then what I would do is go down to a shop that rebuilds alternators and tell them what you want. Also that you need it to fit into the area that the second alternator would fit into on your truck. Then if they can do it it would be just a matter of finding the parts to connect it. Just remember that anything that you do with this is going to be custom built and could get quite expensive.
There's not much room underhood for anything custom but I like the idea of converting the 120 amp secondary alt to 24V and controlling it with it's own regulator. Post up if you succeed.
I've given up on 24v, but...
Are the regulator(s) for the alternator(s) external?
I've found marine regulators that properly charge deep cycle batteries. If I can replace one of the regulators (I assuming there are two with a dual alternator setup), I can dedicate that alternator to the house batteries.
I guess many inboard engine boats are (were) delivered with automotive engines and regulators. While that's fine for starting batteries and general 12v , it doesn't work well for charging house batteries. Better boats replace these systems with marine specific alternators and generators that properly charge and manage both battery types.
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