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post #16 of 34 (permalink) Old 11-22-2015, 08:35 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks I'll look into it, but it'll wait until I get there
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post #17 of 34 (permalink) Old 11-22-2015, 08:40 AM Thread Starter
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Double check to make sure you really want to go to Kalifornia. If you do, then check your belt,. I'd actually get a new one and put your old one behind the seat as a spare. While it's off, check every pulley for play. Check all radiator hoses. If you don't have the top hose that goes around the belt, swap it. Clean air filter. Fresh oil. Check the axle lube. Do your wheel bearing maintenance and check your brakes. Spare tire inflated? Got your jack and tools? Still sure you want to go to the ROK? Got all your shots? I'd carry a gallon of antifreeze and oil, and a couple quarts of ATF. Wipers ok? All fluids topped off?




That's alot to take in, well on base they have a hobby shop with tools and all, even lifts, that's kind of a big list and I'm not sure where to start, like taking my belt off and putting a new one on. What top hose around the belt? I don't have tools, is there like a starter/cheap thing or set I could get my hands on
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post #18 of 34 (permalink) Old 11-22-2015, 09:46 AM
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A broken serpentine belt will leave you stranded on the side of the road so its good to be pro-active and change it before that happens there are many DIY videos on YouTube. Here is one:
http://youtu.be/u9uobrGJVtg

Here is the best deal on a new Serpentine belt. (This is for engines with only one alternator.)

Gates K081223HD Fleet Runner Micro-V Belt - Walmart.com

Most of our 7.3s came from the factory with a top radiator hose that is routed through the serpentine belt and it needs to be removed to change the belt. While it is off this is a perfect time to install a new top hose that routes outside of the belt. It was used on ambulances with two alternators and it doesn't have to be removed every time you change your belt. It costs about $20. Here is a photo of the "good" style top hose. Maybe the previous owner already swapped yours?

RT has suggested that you inspect the pulleys when you have the belt off (maybe someone can give you pointers on what to look for if you only want to inspect them). You want to inspect them and roll them by hand while they are not under tension of the belt. There are two seperate parts you need to inspect. The first is the idler pulley and it is a single pulley. The second is the belt tensioner and it is one part with 2 pulleys.

If you decide to replace them then the cheapest place to buy genuine Ford parts is Tousley AutoNation Ford. They are a site sponsor.

One question you will need to think about is if you want to always replace parts with Ford OEM or if you will try and save money buying after-market parts. This is a personal choice but many guys here like to stick with Ford OEM. Here is the online parts catalog for Tousley Ford. They charge a flat 10% above cost and even with shipping they are always cheaper than your local Dealership.

AutoNation Ford White Bear Lake | Parts & Accessories
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2000 F-250 4x4 SC SB 7.3 PSD w/4R100. 160,000 miles.

NOS Black CPS. Rebuilt Fuel bowl w/gold spring, 6.0 Cooler, Walker BTM, Stancor GPR, AIH Delete, ScanGuage II, AIC, 2002 Headlights, Bilstein 4600, Marinco Mod, Cupholder Upgrade, B&W Turnover Ball, Michelin LTX


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2002 F-250 4x4 CC SB 7.3 PSD w/4R100. 154,000 miles. (purchased 02/17/17)

No mods from previous owner except B&W Turnover Ball. (I have yet to see a Colorado truck w/out one.)

Last edited by ArcticDriver; 11-22-2015 at 10:13 AM.
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post #19 of 34 (permalink) Old 11-22-2015, 10:05 AM
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Don't you have a fill plug in the cover of your Dana 60?
Well I am going to feel like a real greenhorn if I do

Thanks RT.


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2000 F-250 4x4 SC SB 7.3 PSD w/4R100. 160,000 miles.

NOS Black CPS. Rebuilt Fuel bowl w/gold spring, 6.0 Cooler, Walker BTM, Stancor GPR, AIH Delete, ScanGuage II, AIC, 2002 Headlights, Bilstein 4600, Marinco Mod, Cupholder Upgrade, B&W Turnover Ball, Michelin LTX


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2002 F-250 4x4 CC SB 7.3 PSD w/4R100. 154,000 miles. (purchased 02/17/17)

No mods from previous owner except B&W Turnover Ball. (I have yet to see a Colorado truck w/out one.)
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post #20 of 34 (permalink) Old 11-22-2015, 05:33 PM
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You can always say it was too damn cold to slide under and look!

On your hose picture - Yours is a perfect example of this. Diesels vibrate. Anytime a hose is next to something hard, it will wear through. The driver's side CAC hose is one example. The pressure hose out of the power steering pump is one. And this hose is one. See where that cool metal recess in the alternator mount hugs the hose? You can make out its impression on your upper hose already. Wrap that portion of the hose with a few layers of bicycle inner tube and zip tie that puppy into the recess to keep it from bouncing into the fan belt.

On a side note - your hose looks like its sucked in pretty good. Why are you running a vacuum on your cooling system?

2003 F-250 XLT Crew Cab 7.3L, Chrome BigTex Grille Guard, Quad pillar - 3 ISSPRO gauges (trans, pyro, boost) and DP-Tuner F6; Roush fuel pressure / temperature / oil pressure gauges, Ford Severe Duty AIS, 31 row 6.0 transmission cooler, ScanGauge II, Marinco mod, Walker BTM

I wonder if clouds ever look down on us and say, "Hey, look - that one is shaped like an idiot!"
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post #21 of 34 (permalink) Old 11-23-2015, 04:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RT View Post
You can always say it was too damn cold to slide under and look!

On your hose picture - Yours is a perfect example of this. Diesels vibrate. Anytime a hose is next to something hard, it will wear through. The driver's side CAC hose is one example. The pressure hose out of the power steering pump is one. And this hose is one. See where that cool metal recess in the alternator mount hugs the hose? You can make out its impression on your upper hose already. Wrap that portion of the hose with a few layers of bicycle inner tube and zip tie that puppy into the recess to keep it from bouncing into the fan belt.

On a side note - your hose looks like its sucked in pretty good. Why are you running a vacuum on your cooling system?
RT, I just found that photo on the internet...it was too damn cold outside to go take a picture of mine


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2000 F-250 4x4 SC SB 7.3 PSD w/4R100. 160,000 miles.

NOS Black CPS. Rebuilt Fuel bowl w/gold spring, 6.0 Cooler, Walker BTM, Stancor GPR, AIH Delete, ScanGuage II, AIC, 2002 Headlights, Bilstein 4600, Marinco Mod, Cupholder Upgrade, B&W Turnover Ball, Michelin LTX


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2002 F-250 4x4 CC SB 7.3 PSD w/4R100. 154,000 miles. (purchased 02/17/17)

No mods from previous owner except B&W Turnover Ball. (I have yet to see a Colorado truck w/out one.)
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post #22 of 34 (permalink) Old 11-23-2015, 07:45 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ArcticDriver View Post
A broken serpentine belt will leave you stranded on the side of the road so its good to be pro-active and change it before that happens there are many DIY videos on YouTube. Here is one:
http://youtu.be/u9uobrGJVtg

Here is the best deal on a new Serpentine belt. (This is for engines with only one alternator.)

Gates K081223HD Fleet Runner Micro-V Belt - Walmart.com

Most of our 7.3s came from the factory with a top radiator hose that is routed through the serpentine belt and it needs to be removed to change the belt. While it is off this is a perfect time to install a new top hose that routes outside of the belt. It was used on ambulances with two alternators and it doesn't have to be removed every time you change your belt. It costs about $20. Here is a photo of the "good" style top hose. Maybe the previous owner already swapped yours?

RT has suggested that you inspect the pulleys when you have the belt off (maybe someone can give you pointers on what to look for if you only want to inspect them). You want to inspect them and roll them by hand while they are not under tension of the belt. There are two seperate parts you need to inspect. The first is the idler pulley and it is a single pulley. The second is the belt tensioner and it is one part with 2 pulleys.

If you decide to replace them then the cheapest place to buy genuine Ford parts is Tousley AutoNation Ford. They are a site sponsor.

One question you will need to think about is if you want to always replace parts with Ford OEM or if you will try and save money buying after-market parts. This is a personal choice but many guys here like to stick with Ford OEM. Here is the online parts catalog for Tousley Ford. They charge a flat 10% above cost and even with shipping they are always cheaper than your local Dealership.

AutoNation Ford White Bear Lake | Parts & Accessories


That actually looks relatively easy changing all that out, the pulleys look like they may be more difficult if one is found to be playful thanks for posting the vid
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post #23 of 34 (permalink) Old 11-23-2015, 08:29 AM
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That actually looks relatively easy changing all that out, the pulleys look like they may be more difficult if one is found to be playful thanks for posting the vid
Just remember there is alot of tension on the tensioner and you will want to use a long-handle to get the best (and safest) leverage when you release the tension to remove the belt. Always a good practice to wear safety glasses whenever under the hood.

And have a diagram there which shows exactly how the belt "routes" around each pulley.

Cheers


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2000 F-250 4x4 SC SB 7.3 PSD w/4R100. 160,000 miles.

NOS Black CPS. Rebuilt Fuel bowl w/gold spring, 6.0 Cooler, Walker BTM, Stancor GPR, AIH Delete, ScanGuage II, AIC, 2002 Headlights, Bilstein 4600, Marinco Mod, Cupholder Upgrade, B&W Turnover Ball, Michelin LTX


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2002 F-250 4x4 CC SB 7.3 PSD w/4R100. 154,000 miles. (purchased 02/17/17)

No mods from previous owner except B&W Turnover Ball. (I have yet to see a Colorado truck w/out one.)
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post #24 of 34 (permalink) Old 11-24-2015, 11:26 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jmarty559 View Post
That actually looks relatively easy changing all that out, the pulleys look like they may be more difficult if one is found to be playful thanks for posting the vid
Just remember there is alot of tension on the tensioner and you will want to use a long-handle to get the best (and safest) leverage when you release the tension to remove the belt. Always a good practice to wear safety glasses whenever under the hood.

And have a diagram there which shows exactly how the belt "routes" around each pulley.

Cheers

Noted, so the other day she wouldn't start in park, just a faint click. Then I put it in neutral and it started right up. This is something I'd like to fix before I begin the journey (Dec 1st) any thoughts
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post #25 of 34 (permalink) Old 12-07-2015, 07:20 AM Thread Starter
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Here's an update I'm in Oklahoma so far, had to add coolant in alabama, made it to Oklahoma and woke up today she didn't wanna start, the batts were dead. Made it here without any worry. Got a jump and now the abs light is on. Check the lines to the tires and front driver side has 1 line that goes into the rotor is melted away. That's what made the abs light pop. Though I'd revive the thread and let you guys know what's going on.
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post #26 of 34 (permalink) Old 12-07-2015, 07:22 AM
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Any idea how you melted a brake line?

1994 F-350 7.3 IDI Turbo, crew cab, E4OD,4:10 L/S, LB, Dually
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post #27 of 34 (permalink) Old 12-07-2015, 09:11 AM
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Were your batteries "dead" dead as in couldn't even turn on dash lights or just too dead to turn over the engine?

How much lower are your nightly temperatures in OK than what your used to being in?

Any idea how old your batteries are?

How soon do you have to report for duty?


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2000 F-250 4x4 SC SB 7.3 PSD w/4R100. 160,000 miles.

NOS Black CPS. Rebuilt Fuel bowl w/gold spring, 6.0 Cooler, Walker BTM, Stancor GPR, AIH Delete, ScanGuage II, AIC, 2002 Headlights, Bilstein 4600, Marinco Mod, Cupholder Upgrade, B&W Turnover Ball, Michelin LTX


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
2002 F-250 4x4 CC SB 7.3 PSD w/4R100. 154,000 miles. (purchased 02/17/17)

No mods from previous owner except B&W Turnover Ball. (I have yet to see a Colorado truck w/out one.)
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post #28 of 34 (permalink) Old 12-07-2015, 09:32 AM
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PM 444-4D. He's an Okie and if he isn't close, he'll know someone that can help. If your rotor got hot enough to melt the ABS sensor wire, I suspect you've got a sticking brake caliper over there. Not an enjoyable roadside maintenance item, but it needs to be addressed.

2003 F-250 XLT Crew Cab 7.3L, Chrome BigTex Grille Guard, Quad pillar - 3 ISSPRO gauges (trans, pyro, boost) and DP-Tuner F6; Roush fuel pressure / temperature / oil pressure gauges, Ford Severe Duty AIS, 31 row 6.0 transmission cooler, ScanGauge II, Marinco mod, Walker BTM

I wonder if clouds ever look down on us and say, "Hey, look - that one is shaped like an idiot!"
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post #29 of 34 (permalink) Old 12-07-2015, 03:17 PM
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Where, in OK, are you and what is your current status?

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post #30 of 34 (permalink) Old 12-08-2015, 06:29 PM Thread Starter
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Hey guys just got into cali today, I'm going to get the batts tested but, they've good thus far, it must've been the cold, in NC it wasn't that cold. It was, I think 40? It was in the goldsby area. The wire was pressed up against the rotor so after all the travel it melted. But I haven't had any issues other than that. Not sure when the batteries were replaced, the guy I bought it off didn't know :\. Other than that I made it here safe, other than putting some coolant in there it was runnin strong.
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