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    Pete - I don't know if you remember me but I have a very frustrating problem with a leaking fuel line at the switching valve on my 1994,f250,IDI. I noticed in one of your posts that you have pictures of the arrangement of these lines and would appreciate it if you would email a set. My lines are blue for the fuel line and grey for the return. I have a front and a rear tank. I'm not sure on the size of these lines but I believe they are 3/8 and 5/16. I sent away for new connectors of both sizes (Dorman) but I hesitate in putting them on until I get a picture of what goes where. My current connectors have clips that slide into the connectors and I am told that they should be replaced but they do secure the clips when installed? Any help, ideas would be appreciated. I have been at this for two weeks. Also I have been told that most valve switches are metal whereas mine are hard plastic. Jim,
    hobo1240@msn.com

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    Just bought a 1988 f-250 diesel. Guy before me was a hack and I've got wire running everywhere. I read your response to a post. Do you have a copy of the wiring diagram you can send me?

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    1993 F250 Diesel turbo, Ranout of fuel while running on the rear tank, switched dash fuel selector switch to front tank(full) the gauge reads empty.
    Added 2 gallions to rear tank, removed fuel filter, filled and replaced.
    Started and ran good on the rear tank.
    Need to check the dash Fuel Selector Switch (FSS).
    Need to check Fuel Selector Valve(FSV)

    Its getting near my experiance level Any help will be appricated.
    Can I get copy of 89-94 FSV Test?

    Thanx
    azcorkster
    azcorkster@yahoo.com

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    Ok guys, I'm flipping out here. I changed my fuel filter and my oil and oil filter. Now it is throwing codes that I can't find. I have done all I can think of. The truck just bogs down and has no power. I need some help

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    Ok guys, I'm flipping out here. I changed my fuel filter and my oil and oil filter. Now it is throwing codes that I can't find. I have done all I can think of. The truck just bogs down and has no power. I need some help

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    I'm sorry, I'm new to the site, and your post said no visitor messages but I'm not sure how to do a private one. Anyways, you posted a long time ago to a guy wanting to know the steps to replacing a water pump on a 7.3 IDI. if you still have that info it would be greatly appreciated.

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    One more thing, If you've still got the '93 with the captain's chairs....can I have a look-see? Got any pics uploaded?

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    I became a member just to thank you for this...
    http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f30/any-way-determine-if-its-cavitation-damage-246138/
    Thank - you. I am going to go out and buy a diesel in confidence now. To be exact, I was looking at a 1988 Ford 7.3L with 150k mi. on it. I know what to test/have tested and what to do in some extreme cases. Your input is highly appreciated. If you don't mind, I plan on printing what you said to take to the mechanic to give him a leg-up.

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    2 Posts
    Hello , i have a 1986 f250 with a 6.9 , i need to rePlace the fss on the ip, i read in an old post that you had the procedure to do this available.. Would it be possible to get this information from you? I have had no luck finding anything on doing this repair.

    If you can help my email is rapidroy5858@yahoo.com
    My cell 219-608-0121 or of course you can pm me here at the diesel stop

    Thanks for any info you can provide Royboy

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    3 Posts
    Hey Manitoba,

    back in February, you left a post about replacing a 7.3L oil pan, without removing the engine. It said to check your pictures on the procedure. I've got an E350 with a rusty oil pan (2 holes after wire wheeling) that I've patched up with JB Weld. The pan should be replaced, but having it done is too expensive. If the job could be done engine in, that's the way I'd prefer to go. Would you please send me the link?

    Additionally, another resourceful Canadian posted a description of a procedure he uses. Does this sound about right?

    http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f14/oil-pan-removal-207668/

    thanks in advance.

    -Doug

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    3 Posts
    Hello I live in bc and have an 88 7.3 f250 standard 5 sp. I was wondering if you have schematic for this vehicle. I am going to be replacing all front end parts including springs. I am also trying to figure out the wiring for the cruse control as it is not working, also working on bleeding the rabs or replacing it. as well I cant find a sping to hold the speedometer cable in place ford doesn't carry it. well thats enough for now lol any help or suggestions you provide will be greatly appreaciated thanks. I am new to diesels and this is my first form
    styles

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    12,232 Posts
    To be honest there is no way of recovering from your dilema without having one of the IPs rebuilt or exchanged for a new rebuilt. I would stick with your original IP. As for the no starting hot that could be the IP is worn out internally. BUT it get's such good fuel mileage would make me wonder it the engine is cranking over fast enough on the start.. Usually 200rpm is the slowest the starter should spin the engine.
    Timing that's off can also cause poor fuel mileage, did you remove the oil filler cover with the IP........Haynes printed it wrong in their books, never remove the timing gear cover. My pictures under my name have some good info and proceedures. Select 90 pics per page for faster scanning.......

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    I just read your page up IP turnup. I have a 91 7.3 I just replace the IP on because it wouldn't start warm. It got very good mileage. after replacing the IP mileage was miserable. I checked the setting on the orignal IP I removed, it was bottomed out. the replacement IP off of a spare engine that belonged to a kid, I think he had messed with it . I intended to just back it out a half turn or so, now I'm confused after checking the old one. Any ideas Thanks Dale
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