bismic

Well,I see no visible sign of leakage,soot or dislodged copper washer,so I will have to check the cup.Thank you for your help,at this point I may have to put it back together with new orings and copper and see where im at.

hi bismic,i did the air bubble test recommended in the no start thread,had bubbles coming from right bank.I pulled injectors today expecting to find a bad crush washer and did not.i cant see any obvious reason for leakage.do these leak combustion internally? and can i test this with injectors out? thank you.03 6.0

Hello Bismic, Im Mathew the one with the hpop draining problem. You said to pm you about the tech who had experienced this type of problem. the situation is true and compleatly unexplainable to me on why it starts normal when backed into the drive, and takes 4-5 cycles when pulled up normally. the only thing that is consistant between the two is that when it does start it takes the gauge a couple seconds to register pressure.

Mark,

What should the EBP measure on the scan guage II? At KOEO, mine reads 11.4 for MAP and 11.7 for EBP. Thanks!

Tim

Mark,
You mentioned in an earlier post about the VGT relearn process. Can you explain that process or point me to some directions?
Thanks, jg

Hey mark i was cruisin another forum and come across a posting that youve made on an excel spreadsheet. I would be real interested in seeing this as it would benefit me huge! If you don tmind could you please email it to me. Send it to precisionceramic@yahoo.com Thanks again for all your great posts, your knowledge it extremely helpful for many of us on here. Thanks, Ron

Still coming up empty - did the air test and hear lots of air at the oill fill, but it sounds the same whether the IPR is powered, so I'm not certain the IPR is closing. Pulled the HP oil rail on pass side just to look & see - nothing visible, I suppose there could be orings at the injectors, but like you say that shouldn't be enough to lose all the pressure. I'll have to be sure the IPR is closing without frying it, and I suppose I need to check HPOP somehow? What's the HPOP test procedure?

Next step will be to (air) check Hi Pressure system for leaks, rig up something to check oil pressure at HPOP, pull valve covers to check oil rails/orings/plugs/what else? Maybe replace Crank Position Sensor just because its the only one left -(at risk of being a "new parts mechanic"). It hasn't started since Christmas, and I spend 8-10 hours a week working on it or staring at it thinking.

Any questions/suggestions would be appreciated.

Stu

I really am determined to diagnose the problem, and not just keep throwing new parts in it, but I have to be missing something. SO far (besides starter), in order; new racor fuel filters (due to slow start), replaced STC fitting (slow start came back month later) did EGR delete while I had it apart, EGR cooler hose, manifold gaskets, (started & quit the same nite, hasn’t fired since), cam sensor, FICM, ICP Sensor, checked every inch of every engine wiring harness & re-taped all. Voltage at IPR harness is 12.4/9-10.5, fuel pressure = 45, low side oil pressure = 70+ (cranking) Hi side oil pressure = 80-100, builds very slowly.

Still working on this '05 no-start: thankfully I have 2 "extra" PSD's I can drive till I get it. After much thought & troubleshooting I was convinced the IPR was bad - had zero Hi pressure oil. No fuel dilution per your earlier suggestion, actually the oil has less than 500 miles, but i changed it anyway. Starter was getting weak, so I changed it to make certain starting RPM's were sufficient. Cleaned turbo vanes/slider while had it apart to change IPR. Only change with new IPR I seem to have the same pressure on the high side as the low side - and at about 80-100 psi it's too hi for the low side and obviously too low to crack the injectors.