The Diesel Stop banner
B

Reaction score
239

Marketplace Rating
(0.0 - 0 reviews)

Profile posts Latest activity Discussions Buy & Sell Reviews About

  • · Registered
    Joined
    ·
    14 Posts
    Well,I see no visible sign of leakage,soot or dislodged copper washer,so I will have to check the cup.Thank you for your help,at this point I may have to put it back together with new orings and copper and see where im at.

    · Registered
    Joined
    ·
    14 Posts
    hi bismic,i did the air bubble test recommended in the no start thread,had bubbles coming from right bank.I pulled injectors today expecting to find a bad crush washer and did not.i cant see any obvious reason for leakage.do these leak combustion internally? and can i test this with injectors out? thank you.03 6.0

    · Registered
    Joined
    ·
    5 Posts
    Hello Bismic, Im Mathew the one with the hpop draining problem. You said to pm you about the tech who had experienced this type of problem. the situation is true and compleatly unexplainable to me on why it starts normal when backed into the drive, and takes 4-5 cycles when pulled up normally. the only thing that is consistant between the two is that when it does start it takes the gauge a couple seconds to register pressure.

    · Registered
    Joined
    ·
    57 Posts
    Mark,

    What should the EBP measure on the scan guage II? At KOEO, mine reads 11.4 for MAP and 11.7 for EBP. Thanks!

    Tim

    · Registered
    Joined
    ·
    0 Posts
    Mark,
    You mentioned in an earlier post about the VGT relearn process. Can you explain that process or point me to some directions?
    Thanks, jg

    · Registered
    Joined
    ·
    253 Posts
    Hey mark i was cruisin another forum and come across a posting that youve made on an excel spreadsheet. I would be real interested in seeing this as it would benefit me huge! If you don tmind could you please email it to me. Send it to precisionceramic@yahoo.com Thanks again for all your great posts, your knowledge it extremely helpful for many of us on here. Thanks, Ron

    · Registered
    Joined
    ·
    4 Posts
    Still coming up empty - did the air test and hear lots of air at the oill fill, but it sounds the same whether the IPR is powered, so I'm not certain the IPR is closing. Pulled the HP oil rail on pass side just to look & see - nothing visible, I suppose there could be orings at the injectors, but like you say that shouldn't be enough to lose all the pressure. I'll have to be sure the IPR is closing without frying it, and I suppose I need to check HPOP somehow? What's the HPOP test procedure?

    · Registered
    Joined
    ·
    4 Posts
    Next step will be to (air) check Hi Pressure system for leaks, rig up something to check oil pressure at HPOP, pull valve covers to check oil rails/orings/plugs/what else? Maybe replace Crank Position Sensor just because its the only one left -(at risk of being a "new parts mechanic"). It hasn't started since Christmas, and I spend 8-10 hours a week working on it or staring at it thinking.

    Any questions/suggestions would be appreciated.

    Stu

    · Registered
    Joined
    ·
    4 Posts
    I really am determined to diagnose the problem, and not just keep throwing new parts in it, but I have to be missing something. SO far (besides starter), in order; new racor fuel filters (due to slow start), replaced STC fitting (slow start came back month later) did EGR delete while I had it apart, EGR cooler hose, manifold gaskets, (started & quit the same nite, hasn’t fired since), cam sensor, FICM, ICP Sensor, checked every inch of every engine wiring harness & re-taped all. Voltage at IPR harness is 12.4/9-10.5, fuel pressure = 45, low side oil pressure = 70+ (cranking) Hi side oil pressure = 80-100, builds very slowly.

    · Registered
    Joined
    ·
    4 Posts
    Still working on this '05 no-start: thankfully I have 2 "extra" PSD's I can drive till I get it. After much thought & troubleshooting I was convinced the IPR was bad - had zero Hi pressure oil. No fuel dilution per your earlier suggestion, actually the oil has less than 500 miles, but i changed it anyway. Starter was getting weak, so I changed it to make certain starting RPM's were sufficient. Cleaned turbo vanes/slider while had it apart to change IPR. Only change with new IPR I seem to have the same pressure on the high side as the low side - and at about 80-100 psi it's too hi for the low side and obviously too low to crack the injectors.

    · Registered
    Joined
    ·
    4 Posts
    Having changed the ICP sensor, I assume the "open circuit" is elsewhere. In order to check for oil pressure, I hooked a guage (0-2500 psi) to the ICP port, and got zero oil pressure while cranking. I guess the next stepe is to get at the wire to the IPR and see if there's voltage? The Ford manual says that a "short to ground results in maximum oil pressure". Does this mean that the variable current to the IPR is a "negative" or ground wire? There is also the idea that the IPR is bad, or like you said the HPO has a MAJOR leak.

    So, the one question I'm left with at his juncture, shouldn't there be high oil pressure at the IPC port? If yes, then its back to tearing down the top again to get to the IPR....Stu

    · Registered
    Joined
    ·
    4 Posts
    I didn't do an air pressure test at the STC- but I have since seen the procedure-probably on one of your pages.

    However, I've been trying to think through this logically (God forbid!) and I keep coming back to the basis of all combustion. 3 things are needed in every case; fuel, air, and heat. the other rule of combustion; where there's smoke, there's fire. I have no smoke, therfore no fire (obviously).

    So working backwards, what am I missing? I have air. If it's cranking and mechanically sound, it makes its own heat. This means I have to be missing fuel. Since there is NO smoke, not ever, it means there is NO fuel. I stumbled over a note in the Ford shop manual that says (in reference to the IPR) "an open circuit results in minimal oil pressure and a no-start situation"

    Continued on next post.............

    · Registered
    Joined
    ·
    6,130 Posts
    I thought I sent you a message yesterday evening, but it looks like it did not go through. Basically I said that I thought it might be an issue w/ injectors or a leak in the high pressure oil system. I can send you instructions on testing for leaks in the high pressure oil system. Beyond that, you probably need some diagnostic help (autoenginuity will work, but beyond that you need the dealership). Injectors need testing (contribution tests). I have some ******* ways of testing injectors and looking at the high pressure oil pressure if you are interested. Let me know, I can send the info tonight.

    · Registered
    Joined
    ·
    6,130 Posts
    One thing I was wondering..... What is your oil level? Could you have some fuel dilution into the oil? Pull the dipstick and check it out (and smell it). Your low pressure oil pressure is a little high - the regulator is suppose to keep it at or below 75 psig. Fuel dilution (if you have it) could cause your issues. If a cylinder were getting too much fuel, it could start hydrolocking and kill the engine. It would be coming from a leaking injector o-ring.

    · Registered
    Joined
    ·
    4 Posts
    Hey Bismic.........can you get me some help-I'm getting to the end of my rope.

    Had some slow start problems, getting longer & longer to start. replaced the filters, then did the STC and egr delete at the same time. Started right up & idled for 1/2 hour. Drove out the driveway and slowly died over 1/4 mile. cranked plenty but no start, checked ficm and had 28 volts during the buzz test, 48 v while cranking. Sent the ficm off (they called and told me that the ficm wasn't the cause of the no start) I had it reworked anyway; now it has 48v all the time. Changed the ICP on a whim; no joy. low pressure oil is 80 lbs+, fuel pressure is 50 lbs+, batteries are less than a year old, my buddy at NAPA warrantied them so have 2 new batts. Starter was drawing 500-600 amps, no doubt due to 4 weeks of cranking w/no-start, replaced with new starter. 1 more thing - never smoked when cranking.

    Any ideas?
  • Loading…
  • Loading…
  • Loading…
  • Loading…
  • Loading…
Top