I would consider it perfectly safe to drive. A bad injector can make the truck run poorly, but it isn't going to hurt anything or leave you stranded. Rough running that improves when warm can be an injector, but as you noted it can also be the FICM. A contribution test would be the best way to tell what's at fault.
The only time I've heard of pushrod troubles on these trucks is after the HGs were done if the engine wasn't timed right when torquing the heads down.
You have helped me out allot in the past and I was wondering if you could do so again today.
On my way home from work today, I read the code P0269 - (Cylinder 3 Contribution/Balance Fault) from my Edge tuner. I have been doing some research and pulled up that it will most likely need an injector replacement.
Currently there are no driving problems that I notice with it, except for sometimes the start up is harsh, more so when it is cold (I figure the FICM?). I may have noticed lack of power but that could always be the placebo effect. Upon further research, I noticed that it could also be the pushrods. Is there any way to tell? As this truck is my daily driver, should I not drive it tomorrow?
Your help is greatly appreciated.
As far as other bulletproofing though I would definitely get a coolant filter on the truck. Change that filter after 1 month, then 3 months, then yearly. Flushing the cooling system and swapping over to a CAT EC-1 rated ELC is also recommended, but do those first two filter changes before doing that to try and keep stuff out of the OC. I'd repalce the hot side CAC boots. They get ruined from the oil from the CCV and crack. Speaking of which I'd mod the CCV or install a catch can to keep oil out of the intake. Another worthwhile thing is to install a 4 gauge wire from the alternator's charging post to the + terminal on the RH battery, and another from one of the alternator mounting bolts to the chassis ground lug. If you plan to plow or use a lot of power I'd upgrade the alternator, as they are barely adequate in stock form.
I would first verify that the work the previous owner claims was done was actually done. Studs are easy to verify, you just look at the fasteners for the heads, the easiest ones to spot are the lower row of 5 right above the exhaust manifolds. If its a nut on a stud then the studs were done, if its a bolt then studs were not done, and at that point you have to call into question anything else he claims was done. EGR delete is likewise easy, you look down at the top of the motor, and if there's a rectangular metal object under the intake on the RH side then the EGR cooler is still there. If not, and all you see is a short section of pipe and a hose then its gone.
Hello TKO, I've watched & read much about the 6.0 engine. It seems you've got a darn good handle on this engine, so here goes. We are dealing on a 2006 f550 with the 6.0. The owner claims head gaskets & studs done. EGR delete done. Oil cooler & turbo replaced. I will be installing a 8' service body on it. Want to do blue spring & scan gauge. Also think the FCIM upgrade thing is a good idea. What other "bulletproofing" would you recommend ?
THX in advance.
It really depends on the condition of the cooling system. Restore will clean out any silicates or goo. Restore Plus is more for descaling and rust removal. Around here Restore Plus was impossible to find. I did the standard Restore flush and have had no issues over a year later. I'm also running a coolant filter, which I think traps any rust or contaminates. Change that filter after 1 month, then 3 months, then once a year. All my flushing was also done with distilled water (get at least 50 gallons if you go this route).
Hey TKO I have seen you on alot of post geting ready put Bullet Proof EGR cooler and a new oil cooler. I was going to start flush today and put new parts on this weekend. should I just flush useing Restor or should I use restor plus also? I dont want to clog up new oil cooler. I aslo have new coolant fillter going on. any help would be awsome thanks
'02 WRX - Outback rear disc swap, EBC green pads, DBA pillar vane rotors, TXS UP/TBE/TMIC, Perrin LW crank pulley, PPG billet steel shift forks, ACT Streetlite flywheel & clutch, K&N filter, STi Group N motor/trans mounts, TiC/Kartboy rear diff mounts/subframe lock bolts/outrigger stiffeners, Kartboy SS & all shifter bushings, custom PDX tune for Cobb AP - went 14.1 on a terrible 60ft before most of these mods; shooting for 13.50s
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