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post #7 of (permalink) Old 10-03-2012, 11:01 AM
bigjas
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Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Colorado Springs area, CO
Posts: 8
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Lessons Learned

Thanks for the great write up!

Other than needing to cut and/or grind down the boss and the casting ID, the installation of the International pump is no more difficult than installing another stock style water pump.

I am posting some of the lessons I learned while preparing to, and while completing this install in a parking lot about 80 miles from home (I had leave the truck where it was until I could return on Saturday to make the repairs, so I was able to buy a pump and modify it at home).

The biggest challenge I had was getting the seemingly "easy-to-get" parts.

Quote:
Originally Posted by calico5string View Post
Navistar Pump Install, Continued...

LOWER RADIATOR HOSE
--> NOTE: I recently found a part number for a "molded" lower hose (unfortunately, after mine was in). It is a NAPA 8763. I believe the diameters of the hose will still require the bushing trick I used above, but I cannot be certain of this (as of this writing) as I have not seen one yet. So, if you don't like the flex-hose look, try this one...
I have read several posts indicating the NAPA 8763 hose works in the 1994-1997 trucks, but it was much to short for my 1999 (too bad, because the it is about half the price of the NAPA FM-124). I discovered this about 9:00 pm on a Saturday night. Sunday morning I was informed the Denver warehouse had one, but it was closed on Sundays.

If you want to try and find the flex hose elsewhere, it is a Gates #26517 (and it will probably have a green stripe instead of a yellow one).

Quote:
Originally Posted by calico5string View Post
Navistar Pump Install, Continued...

MOUNTING BOLTS
If you use the original factory bolts that came out, you will need to purchase 3 additional bolts: Two bolts @ 60mm long, and one bolt @ 110mm long. You will then have the three original bolts left over after your install (two 30 mm and one 80 mm).

The bolts were readily available at a local NAPA store. Unfortunately, Autozone, O'Reily's, etc., were not able to supply them (at least they were not an "in-stock" item).

In the case of my pump install, I decided to replace ALL of the bolts with new ones: Four @ 110mm long, Two @ 60mm long, and Three @ 30mm long (all M8x1.25), along with flat washers for under the heads.
NAPA does carry the 110 mm bolts, but none of the Colorado Springs stores had them on hand. International had them on hand, ask for part #1818693C1 (>$4.00). The International bolt was identical to the stock bolt (flange bolt with reduced head), the NAPA bolt (>$2.00) is just a regular style bolt.

If you want to replace all of the bolts with the OEM stlye here are the International part #'s (I have not physically verified these #'s)
30 mm bolts - 1817958C1
60 mm bolts - 1817811C1
None of the local hardware stores carry an 8x1.25 bolt longer than 100 mm.
Quote:
Originally Posted by calico5string View Post
Navistar Pump Install, Continued...

HEATER HOSE ROUTING
I used a 1/2" pipe 90-deg hose elbow fitting. Seal the pipe threads with your favorite dope, teflon tape, etc.

For the heater hose: You can cut the original factory "cold" (return) hose and re-route it (using some additional off-the-shelf 5/8" heater hose and a hose-to-hose coupler) along side the factory "hot" hose, down to the new location on the Navistar pump.

HOWEVER, on my install, I used a new factory Ford "HOT" hose in place of the original "cold" hose. I routed it right along with the original "hot" hose, down to the right side of the block. It was plenty long enough to reach the new connection spot on the Navistar pump inlet. And, it looks TOTALLY factory! The heater hose factory Ford part number is: F81Z-18472-MAA (it also had a "KH-260" on the label).

I used a 45 degree fitting for the relocated heater return hose (from NAPA), and was able to use the existing return hose without cutting or kinking it. Detach the return hose from the valve cover brackets, and shift it back toward the firewall (so it is now above the supply hose near the firewall). Then pop it back in both valve cover brackets and route it between the AC and the supply hose to the fitting. I pulled the wire loom cover off the supply hose and placed it over the relocated return hose next to the AC.


Fan Clutches
Check your fan clutch! I am reasonably confident my pump failed due to a bad fan clutch. At 280,000 miles, I cannot complain to much about this, but the water pump only had about 60,000 miles on it. Around 2300 RPMs, there was an intermittent squealing noise I could never isolate. The squeal is now gone, and the turbo's sweet song is much more pronounced. My wife even commented the truck sounds different. She knows the sound of m truck, and can normally tell when I am close to the house. She was surprised when I walked in the door after first making the repairs, because the truck sounded so different. I guess the fan clutch died a slow enough death I never recognized how much different it sounded.

Those who tolerate everything stand for nothing

99 F250 CC 4x4
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