The speedo swap is really not that hard at all. However, there are a couple of things that I have yet to fix. The ABS light is always on, I think I know why, I just need to pick the brain of an electrically inclined person LOL. Also. the Cruise control light no longer works, the CC works just fine but the light does not. That is the only down side. I was able to kill my seat belt chime, and I think I can go back in and kill my door alarm. I will also show you how to take your odometer wheel out and install in your new gauges, so your miles on the van is accurate.
The tach works great. I'm amazed that the main usable RPM range is really only 1,000 RPM's. On the average with my 3:55 rear end and slightly taller tires @ 70 MPH it's turning just under 2,000 RPM's, 80 is 2,250 and 90 just for the sake of testing : ) is 2,500, 50 MPH is 1,500 RPM. So from 30 MPH to 70 is only a 1,000 range. Thats why it is important to have any motor or gearing mods kick in at the right RPM, when pulling a load it's even more important. With a tach you can see exactly the power curve starts and falls off. So you can really tell if your mods or chip are working the best for your van. On my van with a DP 20hp tow setting 1,700 RPM's is when things start to fire up.
To take the dash apart is easy, you just have to be careful. you can break it around the radio and heat vents. The very first thing is to either set your ebrake or block your tires, you will have to move the gear selector into low to help get the dash panel out and instrument cluster out. Also, I didn't disconnect the battery and didn't have any issues, but I have done stupid things before.
There are only 2 screws, the headlight switch and the radio that you have to deal with in order to "unclip" the dash panel. The knob on the headlight switch has a little notch out of it. Take an awl and push the little metal clip in/down while lightly pulling on the knob. It's too small to take a picture of. When your all done, if your knob pulls off you have to rebend (open up) that clip and it will be good as new. You just compressed it a bit too much. Then just unscrew the round collar. The 2 screws are up above the instruments, a phillips screwdriver is all ya need. You can see the where the screw recesses are above the instruments.
There are about 6 or 7 "clips that hold the panel on.
I have an aftermarket radio in my van. When I remove the dash panel the radio stays in place. You'll have to figure out how to release your radio from the dash panel. This vid is for the stock radio. Many after market radios have a similiar release method. But it is a flat sheetmetal like tool that goes one on each side to unclip the radio. I know the car stereo stores have and use them (they come with every radio) and often will give you a pair if you ask. You have to get them for your specific radio, Kenwood, Jensen, etc
I start near the head light switch with a small flat bar or a regular screwdriver and help them release. If you just pull hard enough without a little help they will release, hopefully before the plastic breaks,use the bar. There is one clip near the switch and one on the other side of the steering column, work them free. Now just work around the edge with your little pry bar. When you find a point that is bound up, that is where a clip is located. This probably the hardest part of the swap, getting this panel off. Once all the clips are off and the panel is free you'll have to unplug a few wires the cig lighter/power port, and possibility the radio, not much at all. Set the dash panel out of the way. Note: this is a good time to clean out your heating ducts and the louvers on your dash panel.