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post #10 of (permalink) Old 04-19-2015, 03:31 PM
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Now that you have the dash panel off, it's time to take the instrument cluster out. There 4 small screws one in each corner that hold the cluster in place. If you look at the pic of the two clusters (the F series is the top or yellow one) you can see the mounting tabs in the corners and the difference of the one corner (lower left) more on this later.

The shift indicator cable attaches to a small hook on the steering column. You can either unclip the indicator from the cluster (last pic) and just let it remain in the dash, or unclip it from the steering column. I found it was easier when re-installing to unhook it from the steering column. The easiest way to unhook it is to remove the lower dash panel that below the steering column. It's held on with 4 clips one in each corner. Then remove the sheet metal panel (4 screws) that is behind this lower panel. Use your pry tool to help them unclip. the cable connection is located on the passenger side of the column. After setting the e brake or chalking the wheels, put the shifter in 2nd gear. This is the easiest position to remove the cable. A slightly curved pick tool helps to remove it and greatly helps to reinstall it. The cable end is just a simple loop that goes over the hook. You will also have to unscrew the cable adjuster completely. This allows you to adjust where your red needle aligns on your gear indicator. Make a mental note of where the adjustment is so when you put it back together you can get it close right off the bat.

Now with your tilt steering column in the lowest position and shifter in 1st, pull the cluster out of the van. Put it back in park and take the cluster to your work bench. In order to change the odometer wheel you have to open up the two clusters. It takes a small socket or nut driver and approx 8 screws. In the pic of the two clusters you can see the small bolt heads across the top and on the center round part. After you have removed those screws you have to take out one more small allen screw that is in the back circuit board. You only have to take out the one hex that is by itself. You also have to unclip a wire band to get the two parts of the cluster to separate, this band is white and about an 1-1/4" wide. Sadly I don't have a pic but it is very evident when you try to pull them apart. To unclip the wire is easy. On each side of the wire is a plastic hook and loop type of fastener. Unhook those and the keeper piece will lose it's grip on the wire (you will just have bare wire, no plastic end on it) and you can pull it out. When it comes time to reassemble don't forget to put this back in and be sure the wire is pushed in fully and the keepers are clamped properly. If you get every back together and some things don't work properly, this is most likely where the problem is. Now you have the clusters opened up (you have to do both of them if you want to change your odometer wheel out). You see the wheel is clipped into place with it's silver axle clipped into the plastic. Make a note or take a pic of the position of the same view shown in my pic of your old wheel before you pop it out. The newly located wheel must go back in the same position. Using a fairly long regular screw driver pry the end of the axle out of the plastic, I pryed against the round silver component on the left in the pic and it came out easy. the other end will pop out once you have the (left side) out in the pic.

The wheel can't be turned of changed unless you take it apart (I don't recommend that, don't ask how I know) But the position must be the same as how it was when you removed it.

Once you have popped your wheel back in place turn over your cluster and be sure your mileage is correct. If so repeat the process to reassemble. Note: this is a great time to clean the clear plastic cover inside and out, just be careful not to get cleaner in the nooks and crannies it's a ***** to get them clean (again don't ask me how I know) Use a good plastic cleaner scratch remover, you will thank me later lol. Other then cutting the upper driverside tab off your done with the F cluster, put it aside and we'll move on to the wiring. Also, if you want to use the gear selector from your van, they just unclip with these black hooked clips, I didn't change mine out because they were both in the same condition. About the only thing that changes is the red arrow gets faded. This pic shows the black hooks you need to release to get the gear selector out.

2002 7.3 psd stretch window van, 140K Dp tuner F5 7 tunes, 4" turbo back, Wrapped exhaust, bellowed up pipes, Bilstein Hd's, RiffRaff RFX, HPX & CVC & AIH delete, 235/85/16 Michelins, Hid's, Auto-meter tranny temp, boost and pyro gauges, Mag-Hytec deep trans pan, towing mirrors, dynamat doors, Alpine 1000w blaster
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I found building 5 mast sail boats inside a mini bottle wasn't challenging enough, so I bought a powerstroke van!
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2016 F350 DRW CC long bed 6.7 stroker.

Last edited by Lilnuts; 04-19-2015 at 04:02 PM.
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