When I replaced the brakes all I did was swapped out all four entire assembies and soldered and heat shrunk the wires. The person at the trailer place told me it was all I needed to do. "It's so much easier to replace the whole assembly than just do the shoes...doesn't cost much extra either..." she said. I'll pull the wheels this weekend and take a look.
But here's the thing though. My wife just reminded me that we hooked up her mom's trailer to the truck and got the same result. I spun the wheels by hand, heard a low hum, but the brakes didn't stop the wheel, but the manual override maybe half engaged locks them up (according to my wife) without a problem. Does the manual override bypass the setting you place on the controller? She says it was on 6 when she did the override.
Also, your explanation of the low current when stopped makes sense. I do hear a light hum on the brakes and the LED on the trailer plug tester sometimes comes in dim or flickers. Do you think if I jack the rear of the truck up (jack stands) and simulate moving it'll allow me to better test the brakes on the trailer? I could pull the wheels on the trailer and make adjustments. My wife says she can't tell if the trailer brakes on her mom's trailer are wrong because it's such a smaller trailer that her truck can stop it without issues, even loaded down. That's what she claims anyway. She never hauled her mom's trailer back when we know for sure the brakes were working (before I replaced the brake assemblies).
What a pain.
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Last edited by Larry_J; 03-31-2016 at 09:33 PM.