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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-13-2013, 03:38 PM Thread Starter
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Well today I had to change plugs in an '04 F150 with the dreaded 5.4 and those wonderful 9/16" plugs.

Let's start by saying that 3 of the eight broke off, and yeah I now own a spark plug removal tool. Anyway, The guy at Napa said to use SeaFoam Spray instead of Pb or carb/choke spray. I used lots on the threads as I worked the plugs out and I think that's the reason I only had to use the tool on 3 after 117,000 miles.

the junk on the shields was soft and so I am going to go back and buy another can. P/N SS-14, safe for teflon coated intakes too. When we started the truck it blew a ton of nasty smoke and set the code for misfire at start-up, cleared up in a couple of minutes and purred.


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Last edited by chuckster57; 09-13-2013 at 03:45 PM.
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-13-2013, 05:56 PM
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Right on, good tip there (on the SeaFoam).

Speaking of the 5.4L, just the other day, I had a look at my father-in-law's 5.4 F-150 to hear a ticking sound. Didn't sound that bad to me. The dealer quoted him 6-10 thousand (Scary!!!) dollars to replace cracked exhaust manifold and cam phazers/timing chain setup. I told him to just drive it and not waste (or get ripped off) his money. I hear many trucks ticking like his and hear it's a common trait.

He was hinting for me to fix it...I ain't! I have better things to do. I thought my 6.0L was a pain to work on...looking at his 5.4L, it's worse IMO.

2005 F-350 CC, LB, 4x4, Dually, 6.0 Powerstroke, Torqueshift, 4:10 Gears. Gooseneck and rear pull hitches. "Truck Covers USA" roll up aluminum tonneau cover. Putco Boss Running Boards. Aluminum finned diff covers. Bilstein HD shocks. ProComp steering stabilizer. XRF ball joints. NC Hornet CCV mod. RCD egr delete kit. AirDog fuel system. Strictly Diesel's regulated fuel and coolant return lines kits. Amsoil oil bypass (by NUC Motorsports) and homebuilt coolant bypass kits. CFM intake elbow. ARP head studs with factory gaskets and all upgrades. FICM by Ed with Atlas 40 tune, DC Power 185 amp alternator, MBRP 304SS "Cool Dual" exhaust system. SCT Livewire tuner with pyrometer. Autometer 'A' pillar gauges (Boost/Trans temp/Pyrometer/Fuel Pressure). 850 CCA Motorcraft Batteries. Using Rotella T-6 synthetic oil. Upgraded degas tank and cap. Hayes deep aluminum trans pan. GoGo Diesel modified direct clutch solenoid. Retro Solutions HID head and fog lights. High idle mod. Jimmi-Jammers. +More.
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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-13-2013, 06:13 PM Thread Starter
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I've done about 5 timing chains and related components on the 5.4...not fun for sure, but now I consider myself a pro at them. 2 chains, 2 tensioners, 4 followers and you have to match 4 timing marks.

Won't say what I charged, but it was a whole lot less.


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1994 F-350 7.3 IDI Turbo, crew cab, E4OD,4:10 L/S, LB, Dually
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-13-2013, 06:25 PM
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Originally Posted by chuckster57 View Post
I've done about 5 timing chains and related components on the 5.4...not fun for sure, but now I consider myself a pro at them. 2 chains, 2 tensioners, 4 followers and you have to match 4 timing marks.
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Wow!

I still won't do it...I hate doing things for my father-in-law...he's a jerk (the word actually starts with an "A") and is so ungrateful. I'd rather help someone else, if you know what I mean.

2005 F-350 CC, LB, 4x4, Dually, 6.0 Powerstroke, Torqueshift, 4:10 Gears. Gooseneck and rear pull hitches. "Truck Covers USA" roll up aluminum tonneau cover. Putco Boss Running Boards. Aluminum finned diff covers. Bilstein HD shocks. ProComp steering stabilizer. XRF ball joints. NC Hornet CCV mod. RCD egr delete kit. AirDog fuel system. Strictly Diesel's regulated fuel and coolant return lines kits. Amsoil oil bypass (by NUC Motorsports) and homebuilt coolant bypass kits. CFM intake elbow. ARP head studs with factory gaskets and all upgrades. FICM by Ed with Atlas 40 tune, DC Power 185 amp alternator, MBRP 304SS "Cool Dual" exhaust system. SCT Livewire tuner with pyrometer. Autometer 'A' pillar gauges (Boost/Trans temp/Pyrometer/Fuel Pressure). 850 CCA Motorcraft Batteries. Using Rotella T-6 synthetic oil. Upgraded degas tank and cap. Hayes deep aluminum trans pan. GoGo Diesel modified direct clutch solenoid. Retro Solutions HID head and fog lights. High idle mod. Jimmi-Jammers. +More.
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-04-2013, 10:12 PM
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charge him 8k and tell him to stay away. cash in advance no warranty
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-04-2013, 10:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chuckster57 View Post
I've done about 5 timing chains and related components on the 5.4...not fun for sure, but now I consider myself a pro at them. 2 chains, 2 tensioners, 4 followers and you have to match 4 timing marks.

Won't say what I charged, but it was a whole lot less.
I just did one on a 4.6L. It also included dropping the pan to clean out the oil pickup. It was plugged with bits of tensioner.

$200 of special tools that I'll probably never use again and almost $300 in parts, but still WAY cheaper than paying someone to do it.

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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-05-2013, 06:47 AM
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I still won't do it...I hate doing things for my father-in-law...he's a jerk (the word actually starts with an "A") and is so ungrateful. I'd rather help someone else, if you know what I mean.
My ex-father-in-law (and MANY other people) for some reason think if you're a mechanic, you just LOVE working on tractors, etc,----for free of course. The same people wouldn't dream of having a fencer do a free fencing job. And my present mother in law's main event was phoning me out of the blue and expecting me to somehow magically tell her over the phone exactly where the wiring was screwed up in her neighbor's or friend's horse trailer time after time.

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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 12-12-2013, 09:15 PM
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I heard that brake fluid in a spray bottle works really well on seized bolts.

I have not tried it yet though.....
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 12-12-2013, 09:44 PM
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It's a great paint remover- that much I know...


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