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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-04-2015, 10:47 AM Thread Starter
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Travel trailer cold weather insulation

Good day,

Not sure if i post this at the right place but ill give it a shot. I have a 2014 springdale 26' travel trailer and im looking for idea what to use or do under the floor to isolated.

Also will appreciate any idea of what people do to keep the cold out most a possible.


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F350 2002 7.3

auto, 37/13.5/20 open country, Bushwaker cut-out flare, Bilstein 5100, Maxtow gauges (EGT, Trans temp, Boost), 4 inch diamond eye turbo back axel drop with BTM muffler, S&B intake, RR AIH plug, billet FPR with gold spring, CNCfab Sgt 1 HPOP, CNCfab HPOP line with cross over, CNCfab 4 line fuel kit, ARP heads stud, RDP plenum reinforcing insert, complete CAC intercooler boot kit, full engine seal and gasket kit, 360* turbo rebuilt, WWII, EGPV delete, dark blue CPS, Hydra chip with SDK tunes, Polished compressor manifold, HD coolant, 203* thermostat, Transgo HD kit, Energy suspension bushing kit, front and rear diff fully rebuilt with 4:88 gear ratio, Z36 powerstop heavy hauling brake kit, headlight relay mod, Fumoto drain valve AND STICKER

F350 2008 6.4 (sold)

TT 26' Springdale 2014
7x17 enclose trailer (shop) 2012
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-04-2015, 12:54 PM
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I used to use mine a lot in extreme cold. I don't know about the floor, but I glued the 2 layer foil with the bubble wrap in between to the inside of all the plastic access doors. Also installed a Olympic (or Olympia) brand catalytic heater on the wall. I like it a lot, uses no current and very little propane compared to the forced air unit. They just put out a soft red glow, radiant heat. It puts out no poisonous fumes but DOES consume oxygen. And I'd also install the shrink film kits on all the windows during the winter season, they work real slick. (Walmart during fall and winter). I also use them on a few windows here in the house.

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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-04-2015, 08:14 PM Thread Starter
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I found out last night lots of cold air is coming from some window and the main door. I try the plastic in window and new seal on the door.

Your heater your talking about, is it working on 12v, 110v or propane????


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F350 2002 7.3

auto, 37/13.5/20 open country, Bushwaker cut-out flare, Bilstein 5100, Maxtow gauges (EGT, Trans temp, Boost), 4 inch diamond eye turbo back axel drop with BTM muffler, S&B intake, RR AIH plug, billet FPR with gold spring, CNCfab Sgt 1 HPOP, CNCfab HPOP line with cross over, CNCfab 4 line fuel kit, ARP heads stud, RDP plenum reinforcing insert, complete CAC intercooler boot kit, full engine seal and gasket kit, 360* turbo rebuilt, WWII, EGPV delete, dark blue CPS, Hydra chip with SDK tunes, Polished compressor manifold, HD coolant, 203* thermostat, Transgo HD kit, Energy suspension bushing kit, front and rear diff fully rebuilt with 4:88 gear ratio, Z36 powerstop heavy hauling brake kit, headlight relay mod, Fumoto drain valve AND STICKER

F350 2008 6.4 (sold)

TT 26' Springdale 2014
7x17 enclose trailer (shop) 2012
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-05-2015, 10:44 AM
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Works on propane only, that's what I like about it. If I was traveling for maybe 8-9 hours and it was about 10 outside I could leave it on while going down the road.

Heavy truck and diesel mechanic (thankfully retired after 30+ yrs)
'91 F-250 SC 4X4, 5spd. ATS Turbo, 3:55 diff.
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-05-2015, 03:46 PM
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Is your underbelly sealed or open?

If it's open then adding "coroplast" will help. If it's enclosed then adding insulation will help.

Are you setting it up and leaving it in one place? If so then hay bales stuffed underneath along the perimeter will help a lot.

1994 F-350 7.3 IDI Turbo, crew cab, E4OD,4:10 L/S, LB, Dually
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-05-2015, 06:40 PM Thread Starter
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Travel trailer cold weather insulation-imageuploadedbyag-free1444084746.602032.jpg

This is what it look like, open not close. And yeas im moving and not staying at the same place


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F350 2002 7.3

auto, 37/13.5/20 open country, Bushwaker cut-out flare, Bilstein 5100, Maxtow gauges (EGT, Trans temp, Boost), 4 inch diamond eye turbo back axel drop with BTM muffler, S&B intake, RR AIH plug, billet FPR with gold spring, CNCfab Sgt 1 HPOP, CNCfab HPOP line with cross over, CNCfab 4 line fuel kit, ARP heads stud, RDP plenum reinforcing insert, complete CAC intercooler boot kit, full engine seal and gasket kit, 360* turbo rebuilt, WWII, EGPV delete, dark blue CPS, Hydra chip with SDK tunes, Polished compressor manifold, HD coolant, 203* thermostat, Transgo HD kit, Energy suspension bushing kit, front and rear diff fully rebuilt with 4:88 gear ratio, Z36 powerstop heavy hauling brake kit, headlight relay mod, Fumoto drain valve AND STICKER

F350 2008 6.4 (sold)

TT 26' Springdale 2014
7x17 enclose trailer (shop) 2012
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-05-2015, 09:21 PM
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I am currently an RV tech, so

I have seen my share of trailers, and I can tell you even the "Four Seasons" trailers, aren't. With NO DISREPECT intended at all, let me see if I can explain things.

The Springdale isn't the least expensive Keystone product but it isn't the top of the line either. With that said, the RV industry is very competitive and then only way to survive is to build lighter and keep it affordable, to that end some things suffer. I can tell you as a Keystone owner even the "Four Seasons" units aren't. Lets look at your concerns and see if we can correct them.

Windows: is the wind blowing in from around the frame? If so then the window wasn't installed properly. If your outside wall is Filon (looks like a sheet of fiberglass) then its possible the butyl tape (looks like putty) may be failing. I personally don't like it and there is a better alternative but like most it costs money. If you spend a lot of time in your RV in the winter, the cost may be offset in the savings in propane.

If the wind is blowing in through the weep holes, then your options are limited. HIGH end units have a cover over the slits that stop direct wind and still allow for drainage. You could fabricate something for them.

Door: again if the wind is coming from around the outside of the frame, the door wasn't installed properly. if it's coming in from inside the frame, you need to inspect the door seal.

Underbelly: having an open underbelly allows for any cold air to enter through the floor where there is a hole for water lines, drain lines, wires and propane lines. A cheap start is to fill any voids you can with expanding foam. There is a material called coroplast, looks like corrugated plastic. It comes wide enough to go across the frame. You can use self tapping screws to secure it and it will help alot. Just cut slits to work it around drains and such. You could use a foil liner and that would improve things or like Grand Designs does, use Kraft backed insulation.

Your going to use a lot of propane or electricity keeping any Trailer warm in the winter. My buddy lived 5 years in his Montana in French Camp Ca. (NOT cold) and had a heck of a time.

If you do use space heaters, I wouldn't use any gas fired one as they require oxygen to burn and there isn't enough cubic feet in a 26' trailer for both breathing and heating. That's why there is a warning on the stove.

I use oil filled heaters as they draw less amps/watts. Your trailer is most likely 30amp service and if your plugged in, the converter, fridge, water heater (if equipped), and TV if your watching is drawing. Things add up and the last thing you need is an overloaded circuit.

I hope this gives you some insight, if you want anymore info feel free to PM me and we can discuss it. All is not lost my friend, anything can be fixed.

1994 F-350 7.3 IDI Turbo, crew cab, E4OD,4:10 L/S, LB, Dually
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ATS Turbo upgrades: 3" DP with 3" exhaust Magnaflow XL muffler:
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2012 Copper Canyon 273 FWRET w/2 slides, Air Lift 5000 bags
Pillar pod: Autometer C2 Series gauges: pyro,trans, boost, water, oil pressure
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Hypermax Cowl induction, K&N air filter, flex-a-lite 26K trans cooler with fan,Tekonsha prodigy
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-06-2015, 08:18 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks chuckster,
I know this RV is not the top of the line and i will need to do some work on it because i love add or modified stuff to make it better.

I have no problem at home where i use the RV most of the time, but now im on the other side of the country lol

For windows and door, i will have to send it back to my dealer to get them fix under warranty, all keystone RV dealer around here don't want to take charge of the warranty because I didn't bought the rv from them

Thanks for all this info, ill close the underbelly with the coroplast for sure and if i need more info ill PM you

Thanks


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F350 2002 7.3

auto, 37/13.5/20 open country, Bushwaker cut-out flare, Bilstein 5100, Maxtow gauges (EGT, Trans temp, Boost), 4 inch diamond eye turbo back axel drop with BTM muffler, S&B intake, RR AIH plug, billet FPR with gold spring, CNCfab Sgt 1 HPOP, CNCfab HPOP line with cross over, CNCfab 4 line fuel kit, ARP heads stud, RDP plenum reinforcing insert, complete CAC intercooler boot kit, full engine seal and gasket kit, 360* turbo rebuilt, WWII, EGPV delete, dark blue CPS, Hydra chip with SDK tunes, Polished compressor manifold, HD coolant, 203* thermostat, Transgo HD kit, Energy suspension bushing kit, front and rear diff fully rebuilt with 4:88 gear ratio, Z36 powerstop heavy hauling brake kit, headlight relay mod, Fumoto drain valve AND STICKER

F350 2008 6.4 (sold)

TT 26' Springdale 2014
7x17 enclose trailer (shop) 2012
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-06-2015, 11:36 AM
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I can't remember what I had for lunch yesterday but for some reason I can remember some winter RV stories from our only open all year around RV park from decades ago. One couple I got to be good friends with had a high dollar King Of The Road deluxe 5th wheel they were living in while having their big log house built. He was a retired gun distributor from the Fresno area. His undercarriage was all sealed so the water pipes were inaccessible between the floor and underbelly. The pipes going to the bathroom froze, so for about a month they couldn't get water to the bathroom toilet and sink. Another couple from Santa Barbara who formerly had a host job in Yellowstone Park during the season were sitting out in the sun, clear blue sky, but only about 5. She said if you want to know why we're outside, it's about 100 in the trailer, we're trying to get the pipes thawed out and I don't care what anyone says, these damn things weren't made for wintertime. Another permanent resident had to run a cord with a mechanic's trouble light into his propane tank compartment because without heat from the light his gas wouldn't vaporize. Another guy who did pipeline work pulled in from the other side of the state for a local job with his sewer pipe cap dangling and what I'll call long poopsicles hanging from the pipe. He had fun trying to get hooked up. Quite a few people do the hay/straw trick, but like one guy said you have to worry about some idiot flipping a cig butt and having it blow over to the bales. I was there due to moving from the west side of town waiting to buy a place on the east side. All the pipes in our low-end 24' Prowler lay inside on the floor under the couch, cupboards and all, and I used heat tape covered by the pipe foam insulation on my outside water inlet hose from the RV park faucet and never had any freezing trouble in the trailer if I left some heat on when I was gone. One trick I was taught is don't leave the valve open on the black water tank like in warmer months. You wait until the tank is fairly full then dump it all at once, otherwise draining a little at a time, it freezes and builds up in the flexible drain pipe. Wintertime fun------not hardly!

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Last edited by LMJD; 10-06-2015 at 01:22 PM.
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-06-2015, 03:20 PM
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You can get "heated" hose or the wrap so your fresh water supply doesn't freeze. Even in the summer you shouldn't dump the black tank until it's as full as you can get it. If you leave the dump valve open, every time you deposit solid waste, it sticks and you start to make a mountian. I have had the displeasure of cleaning customers units so the black tank works again.

1994 F-350 7.3 IDI Turbo, crew cab, E4OD,4:10 L/S, LB, Dually
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ATS Turbo upgrades: 3" DP with 3" exhaust Magnaflow XL muffler:
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Pillar pod: Autometer C2 Series gauges: pyro,trans, boost, water, oil pressure
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Hypermax Cowl induction, K&N air filter, flex-a-lite 26K trans cooler with fan,Tekonsha prodigy
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post #11 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-06-2015, 04:34 PM Thread Starter
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For my part i will be leaving quebec before it get too cold so don't thing i will have colder than -3 or -5*c so it shouldn't be too bad.


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F350 2002 7.3

auto, 37/13.5/20 open country, Bushwaker cut-out flare, Bilstein 5100, Maxtow gauges (EGT, Trans temp, Boost), 4 inch diamond eye turbo back axel drop with BTM muffler, S&B intake, RR AIH plug, billet FPR with gold spring, CNCfab Sgt 1 HPOP, CNCfab HPOP line with cross over, CNCfab 4 line fuel kit, ARP heads stud, RDP plenum reinforcing insert, complete CAC intercooler boot kit, full engine seal and gasket kit, 360* turbo rebuilt, WWII, EGPV delete, dark blue CPS, Hydra chip with SDK tunes, Polished compressor manifold, HD coolant, 203* thermostat, Transgo HD kit, Energy suspension bushing kit, front and rear diff fully rebuilt with 4:88 gear ratio, Z36 powerstop heavy hauling brake kit, headlight relay mod, Fumoto drain valve AND STICKER

F350 2008 6.4 (sold)

TT 26' Springdale 2014
7x17 enclose trailer (shop) 2012
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post #12 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-08-2015, 09:25 AM Thread Starter
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Just found this, i thought it was good info

http://www.camping-canada.com/winter_rving_e.asp


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F350 2002 7.3

auto, 37/13.5/20 open country, Bushwaker cut-out flare, Bilstein 5100, Maxtow gauges (EGT, Trans temp, Boost), 4 inch diamond eye turbo back axel drop with BTM muffler, S&B intake, RR AIH plug, billet FPR with gold spring, CNCfab Sgt 1 HPOP, CNCfab HPOP line with cross over, CNCfab 4 line fuel kit, ARP heads stud, RDP plenum reinforcing insert, complete CAC intercooler boot kit, full engine seal and gasket kit, 360* turbo rebuilt, WWII, EGPV delete, dark blue CPS, Hydra chip with SDK tunes, Polished compressor manifold, HD coolant, 203* thermostat, Transgo HD kit, Energy suspension bushing kit, front and rear diff fully rebuilt with 4:88 gear ratio, Z36 powerstop heavy hauling brake kit, headlight relay mod, Fumoto drain valve AND STICKER

F350 2008 6.4 (sold)

TT 26' Springdale 2014
7x17 enclose trailer (shop) 2012
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post #13 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-09-2015, 12:37 PM
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Good information, and I forgot, a woman's hair dryer is your best tool of all in the winter. Once I had to use one up on the roof the thaw the ice so I could lower my TV antenna. Also for thawing faucet valves so they could be turned on and off.

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