I made the poor man's version of the power bleeder, and it worked great. Buy a small sprayer.
Remove the nozzle, and attach a length of tubing. To the other end of the tubing, attach a lid (that you can buy at the local auto parts store) to the master brake cylinder. You will use a fitting with a nut to attach the hose to the lid. You have to drill a hole through the center of the lid to put the fitting through.
Put brake fluid into the sprayer.
Now you can lie underneath the truck next to each wheel and apply pressurized brake fluid while you loosen and bleed the brakes and retighten. The length of tubing should be long enough that you can reach from the brake master cylinder to the rear wheels.
After you have done that, and the brakes are working better, you can finish getting the air out by driving slowly down a lonely road and stomping on the brakes multiple times to work out the rest of the air bubbles.
2001 F350 XLT 4X4 crew cab, dual rear wheels, long bed, black, 7.3l turbo diesel, automatic transmission, 4.10, shift on the fly, running boards, sliding rear window, 38 gal fuel tank, Odyssey extreme 65-PC1750T batteries, Michelin LTX-MS2 rear tires, Sumitomo Encounter front tires, Shell Rotella Ultra elc, 11,500 gvwr, 20,000 gcwr, 7500 gvw, completely stock, 114,000 miles when purchased, now has 250,000 miles, repairs so far: two starters, batteries, cps, brakes, tires, alternator, ball joints, locking hub, wheel hub, AC compressor, serpentine belt, power steering pump, driver's side window, ignition switch, o-ring, Spectra premium radiator, water pump, fan clutch, fan blades, thermostat, thermostat housing, tensioner. Stolen twice so far, but recovered both times with major damage.
2005 Nomad Rampage toyhauler made by Skyline. 11,500lb gvwr.