Brakes!!!! - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com
Wheels, Tires, Brakes, and Suspension Discuss your wheels, tires, brakes & suspension topics here.

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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-15-2019, 04:48 PM Thread Starter
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Brakes!!!!

Hello,

All four wheels; new rotors, calipers, and pads.

Bled, bled and BLED the system. The pedal sinks to the floor.

Changed the ABS control system and BLED it again. The F%&$(*@ pedal still sinks to the floor

All the fuses are good

What are your thoughts on this?

Thank you

Last edited by 6.0DJ; 11-15-2019 at 05:07 PM. Reason: addition
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-15-2019, 07:13 PM
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You still have air in the lines. You need to bleed the system like you have been doing then let the truck sit for a couple hours than do it again. Pumping the peddle will add air to the fluid and you need to let the air escape the fluid by letting it sit. I use a power bleeder so I don't have this problem.
This is what I have. I do it once and I can drive it right away.
https://www.motiveproducts.com/colle...c-bleeder-kits
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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-17-2019, 12:59 AM
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I made the poor man's version of the power bleeder, and it worked great. Buy a small sprayer.



Remove the nozzle, and attach a length of tubing. To the other end of the tubing, attach a lid (that you can buy at the local auto parts store) to the master brake cylinder. You will use a fitting with a nut to attach the hose to the lid. You have to drill a hole through the center of the lid to put the fitting through.



Put brake fluid into the sprayer.

Now you can lie underneath the truck next to each wheel and apply pressurized brake fluid while you loosen and bleed the brakes and retighten. The length of tubing should be long enough that you can reach from the brake master cylinder to the rear wheels.

After you have done that, and the brakes are working better, you can finish getting the air out by driving slowly down a lonely road and stomping on the brakes multiple times to work out the rest of the air bubbles.

2001 F350 XLT 4X4 crew cab, dual rear wheels, long bed, black, 7.3l turbo diesel, automatic transmission, 4.10, shift on the fly, running boards, sliding rear window, 38 gal fuel tank, Odyssey extreme 65-PC1750T batteries, Michelin LTX-MS2 rear tires, Sumitomo Encounter front tires, Shell Rotella Ultra elc, 11,500 gvwr, 20,000 gcwr, 7500 gvw, completely stock, 114,000 miles when purchased, now has 250,000 miles, repairs so far: two starters, batteries, cps, brakes, tires, alternator, ball joints, locking hub, wheel hub, AC compressor, serpentine belt, power steering pump, driver's side window, ignition switch, o-ring, Spectra premium radiator, water pump, fan clutch, fan blades, thermostat, thermostat housing, tensioner. Stolen twice so far, but recovered both times with major damage.

2005 Nomad Rampage toyhauler made by Skyline. 11,500lb gvwr.
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-17-2019, 12:04 PM
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How are you bleeding them?
DENNY

Early 1999 F350 AUTO 4x4 CC LB DRW 4.10 6.0 trans cooler, Front hitch, 2,000 hubs/ brakes, Bilstein shocks/steering stabilizer, Diesel site coolant filter 203 thermostat, EBV delete, new O-rings, new Oil cooler, RIFF RAFF FRX, Glow plug led, Pillar gauges, Lighted cupholder, Painless wiring fuze block, Harpoon/hutch mods, Removed axle blocks. Air bags, 5 wheel hitch, In bed 7 pin plug. Spare tire key delete. KLHANSEN on speed dial. 75,000 as of May 2019
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-17-2019, 08:02 PM Thread Starter
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I am bleeding them the old school way and I have a hand pump that works at the caliper.
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-17-2019, 08:19 PM
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I thought the old school method was to enlist the help of a family member (who would rather be doing something else) to work the brake pedal with their foot while I laid underneath and loosened the bleeder. All the while shouting commands over the sound of the engine.

“No, I said keep the pedal depressed!” 😉
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2002 F-250 4x4 CC SB 7.3 PSD w/4R100. 182,000 miles.
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2002 F-250 4x4 SC LB 7.3 PSD w/ZF-6. 177,000 miles.
NOS Black CPS. ScanGauge-II. Bilstein 5100. Stancor GPR. Walker BTM. Noco Mod. Michelin Defender LTX 285/75/16.

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2000 F-250 4x4 SC SB 7.3 PSD w/4R100. 164,000 miles.
NOS Black CPS. Rebuilt Fuel bowl w/gold spring, 6.0 Cooler, Walker BTM, Stancor GPR, Michelin LTX M&S2.

Last edited by ArcticDriver; 11-18-2019 at 12:59 AM.
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-18-2019, 12:34 AM
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I just replaced all my calipers and rotors. I bought a vacuum pump bleeder from harbor freight and it worked good. I am sure I replaced all the fluid in the system and you don't need a helper.

2002 f250 7.3 4x4 256,000miles. Bone stock other than hutch mode and edge evo programer I use for gadges most of the time. I also have air bags on back for towing.
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-18-2019, 01:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Texkenusmc View Post
I just replaced all my calipers and rotors. I bought a vacuum pump bleeder from harbor freight and it worked good. I am sure I replaced all the fluid in the system and you don't need a helper.
Whats that one vacuum called? A mighty vac? Thats what I use these days but I always seem to get air sneaking in around the bleeder threads which creates tiny bubbles that can be seen in the clear tubing. I finally started spraying a quick shot of white lithium which seems to seal the threads long enough to complete the job.


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2002 F-250 4x4 CC SB 7.3 PSD w/4R100. 182,000 miles.
NOS Black CPS. ScanGauge-II, AIC, Bilstein 5100, Stancor GPR, Marinco Mod, B&W Turnover Ball, Michelin Defender LTX


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2002 F-250 4x4 SC LB 7.3 PSD w/ZF-6. 177,000 miles.
NOS Black CPS. ScanGauge-II. Bilstein 5100. Stancor GPR. Walker BTM. Noco Mod. Michelin Defender LTX 285/75/16.

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2000 F-250 4x4 SC SB 7.3 PSD w/4R100. 164,000 miles.
NOS Black CPS. Rebuilt Fuel bowl w/gold spring, 6.0 Cooler, Walker BTM, Stancor GPR, Michelin LTX M&S2.

Last edited by ArcticDriver; 11-18-2019 at 01:05 AM.
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-18-2019, 10:52 AM
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I use a condiment bottle (ketchup/mustard) from Dollar General (1$) and some aquarium air hose. I clip the nozzle just a little bit shorter until I can force the tubing through from the inside, making a seal. I also drill a 3/16 vent hole in the cap. I set up my phone on video and with the size of the bottle I can pump the brakes 40-50 times if I have opened the system, replaced calipers, or lines and have lots of air. If the tubing has no bubbles in it I can review the video footage and see exactly when the last bit of air was vacated. The large size bottle makes it easy to change fluid also.
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2002 F350 7.3L / 4R100 - 4WD CC DRW 8 Box, AIH Delete, Gauges- Pyro, Trans Temp, Boost, Fuel Pressure, TS-6 tuner, Zoodad Mod, Mishimoto 31 row Trans cooler, Mobil 1 ATF, Trans return line ATF filter, Hutch/Harpoon Mod, Air Lift Load Lifter 5000 rear air springs, Rancho 9000 shocks, Timbrens on the front.
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