Brakes are grabbing, pulsating - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com
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post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-08-2019, 11:36 AM Thread Starter
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Brakes are grabbing, pulsating

The truck is a 2008 F-450 pickup that I have owned since new, now with 60,000 miles. 5,000 miles ago I replaced the brake pads on both axles due to the material separating from the backing plate on one side of the rear axle. Have not had any issues until recently. The brakes are now what I can best describe as grabbing. Not pulling to either side, just grabbing. Quite severe at low speed. I removed the wheels and calipers, inspected the rotors. No signs of overheating or cracking. I used my portable grinder with sanding pads to go over both surfaces of all four rotors to remove any high spots, rust. The truck does sit covered in the driveway for extended periods of time. While the rotors look good, I reassembled the brakes, drove the truck and the problem persists. Before I spend $119 per rotor to replace, I am looking for a second opinion of the possible cause. The suspension looks good, no loose ball joints, tie rod ends. Tires are good, only 10k miles. You may be asking why I just do not have the rotors resurfaced, the reason is not many shops have the capability to turn these larger rotors. Any suggestions are much appreciated.
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post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-08-2019, 12:57 PM
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Try asking around. There are some places that can turn those rotors.

2001 F350 XLT 4X4 crew cab, dual rear wheels, long bed, black, 7.3l turbo diesel, automatic transmission, 4.10, shift on the fly, running boards, sliding rear window, 38 gal fuel tank, Odyssey extreme 65-PC1750T batteries, Michelin LTX-MS2 rear tires, Sumitomo Encounter front tires, Shell Rotella Ultra elc, 11,500 gvwr, 20,000 gcwr, 7500 gvw, completely stock, 114,000 miles when purchased, now has 250,000 miles, repairs so far: two starters, batteries, cps, brakes, tires, alternator, ball joints, locking hub, wheel hub, AC compressor, serpentine belt, power steering pump, driver's side window, ignition switch, o-ring, Spectra premium radiator, water pump, fan clutch, fan blades, thermostat, thermostat housing, tensioner. Stolen twice so far, but recovered both times with major damage.

2005 Nomad Rampage toyhauler made by Skyline. 11,500lb gvwr.
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post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-08-2019, 04:51 PM
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Once you sanded the rotors, did you bed-in the brakes again?

I am not saying thats your problem. I just wonder if anyone does this anymore. I still do.


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NOS Black CPS. ScanGauge-II, AIC, Bilstein 5100, Stancor GPR, Marinco Mod, B&W Turnover Ball, Michelin Defender LTX


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post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-09-2019, 10:10 AM
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Possibly your calipers are not retracting. One of the two could be working correctly and the other hanging up.

2002 F350 7.3 psd supercab dually 2wd, AIS, Moog joints, Bilstein, Michelin Defender LTX, Dieselsite coolant filter, red ELC, prepump spin-on fuel filter, 260,000 miles, hutch/harpoon mod, marinco mod, scan gauge ll, Zoodad, Dieselsite boots, pedestal delete, CNC Fab w/ crossover oil lines, 6.0 trans cooler, replaced oil pan, Walker BTM, Denso starter, bellowed up pipes, rebuilt oil cooler, billet dip stick adapter, HD glow plug relay

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post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-09-2019, 10:12 AM
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Slide pins greased?
Fluid changed?
Fluid level OK?
Any fluid leaking down by brake pedal and firewall?

What brand pads?


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2002 F-250 4x4 CC SB 7.3 PSD w/4R100. 182,000 miles.
NOS Black CPS. ScanGauge-II, AIC, Bilstein 5100, Stancor GPR, Marinco Mod, B&W Turnover Ball, Michelin Defender LTX


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2002 F-250 4x4 SC LB 7.3 PSD w/ZF-6. 177,000 miles.
NOS Black CPS. ScanGauge-II. Bilstein 5100. Stancor GPR. Walker BTM. Noco Mod. Michelin Defender LTX 285/75/16.

SOLD:
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2000 F-250 4x4 SC SB 7.3 PSD w/4R100. 164,000 miles.
NOS Black CPS. Rebuilt Fuel bowl w/gold spring, 6.0 Cooler, Walker BTM, Stancor GPR, Michelin LTX M&S2.
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post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-09-2019, 03:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DonWarkentin View Post
Try asking around. There are some places that can turn those rotors.
Ford doesn't recommend turning rotors. Jack (FMTRVT) says that if they overheat and get hard spots, they can't be successfully turned out. They might be OK for a while, but the pulsation will come back. I'd say the same would be true for sanding rotors, which would be less precise than turning them on a brake lathe or even on the truck.
$119 each for rotors doesn't sound all that bad, but I'd check all the stuff that ArcticDriver mentioned.
Brake hoses might also be worth changing out. If they're deteriorated it can affect brake performance.

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post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-09-2019, 03:22 PM
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If you decide not to have the rotors turned, then I would check rockauto.com. They have a good selection.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...hub,rotor,1896

2001 F350 XLT 4X4 crew cab, dual rear wheels, long bed, black, 7.3l turbo diesel, automatic transmission, 4.10, shift on the fly, running boards, sliding rear window, 38 gal fuel tank, Odyssey extreme 65-PC1750T batteries, Michelin LTX-MS2 rear tires, Sumitomo Encounter front tires, Shell Rotella Ultra elc, 11,500 gvwr, 20,000 gcwr, 7500 gvw, completely stock, 114,000 miles when purchased, now has 250,000 miles, repairs so far: two starters, batteries, cps, brakes, tires, alternator, ball joints, locking hub, wheel hub, AC compressor, serpentine belt, power steering pump, driver's side window, ignition switch, o-ring, Spectra premium radiator, water pump, fan clutch, fan blades, thermostat, thermostat housing, tensioner. Stolen twice so far, but recovered both times with major damage.

2005 Nomad Rampage toyhauler made by Skyline. 11,500lb gvwr.

Last edited by DonWarkentin; 03-09-2019 at 03:24 PM.
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post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-09-2019, 03:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DonWarkentin View Post
If you decide not to have the rotors turned, then I would check rockauto.com. They have a good selection.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...hub,rotor,1896
Good suggestion, but be careful with the RockAuto listing. They list some rotors for Single Rear Wheel. I'm betting that an SRW F450 is a rare animal.
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'99.5 F250 PSD Supercab LB 4x4, ZF-6 w/SB Con OFE, 3.73LS, Boost & pyro gauges, Swamps S175/146 injectors, DP 80 HP Econo PCM (classic version
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post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-09-2019, 04:31 PM
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Good suggestion, but be careful with the RockAuto listing. They list some rotors for Single Rear Wheel. I'm betting that an SRW F450 is a rare animal.
Yes, rare, but not completely extinct, although I'm guessing that they don't take a different rotor, but what do I know? :banan a:

https://www.thedieselstop.com/forums...f450-srw-9902/
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2001 F350 XLT 4X4 crew cab, dual rear wheels, long bed, black, 7.3l turbo diesel, automatic transmission, 4.10, shift on the fly, running boards, sliding rear window, 38 gal fuel tank, Odyssey extreme 65-PC1750T batteries, Michelin LTX-MS2 rear tires, Sumitomo Encounter front tires, Shell Rotella Ultra elc, 11,500 gvwr, 20,000 gcwr, 7500 gvw, completely stock, 114,000 miles when purchased, now has 250,000 miles, repairs so far: two starters, batteries, cps, brakes, tires, alternator, ball joints, locking hub, wheel hub, AC compressor, serpentine belt, power steering pump, driver's side window, ignition switch, o-ring, Spectra premium radiator, water pump, fan clutch, fan blades, thermostat, thermostat housing, tensioner. Stolen twice so far, but recovered both times with major damage.

2005 Nomad Rampage toyhauler made by Skyline. 11,500lb gvwr.
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post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-10-2019, 01:33 PM Thread Starter
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I installed new rotors this morning. Duralast brand, Torqued the rotors on the hubs, and checked for runout. They are good. Checked the calipers, everything works. Put the truck back together and the issue is still there. I am starting to wonder if I am having an issue with hydro boost, low pressure from the power steering pump. What is odd is that the grabbing, pulsating is happening all the way down to zero mph. Does not feel like warped rotors at all. No side to side shake in the steering wheel at all.
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post #11 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-10-2019, 01:56 PM
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So you did grease the caliper pins and checked fluid lrvel and hydroboost for leaks?


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2002 F-250 4x4 CC SB 7.3 PSD w/4R100. 182,000 miles.
NOS Black CPS. ScanGauge-II, AIC, Bilstein 5100, Stancor GPR, Marinco Mod, B&W Turnover Ball, Michelin Defender LTX


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2002 F-250 4x4 SC LB 7.3 PSD w/ZF-6. 177,000 miles.
NOS Black CPS. ScanGauge-II. Bilstein 5100. Stancor GPR. Walker BTM. Noco Mod. Michelin Defender LTX 285/75/16.

SOLD:
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2000 F-250 4x4 SC SB 7.3 PSD w/4R100. 164,000 miles.
NOS Black CPS. Rebuilt Fuel bowl w/gold spring, 6.0 Cooler, Walker BTM, Stancor GPR, Michelin LTX M&S2.
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post #12 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-10-2019, 02:14 PM Thread Starter
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Did all that. Since I haven't since new, I am going to pick up a couple gallons of Mercon V and flush out the old fluid.
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post #13 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-10-2019, 03:58 PM
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I would get some brake fluid and flush that system out as well.
Could be that your calipers are hanging up.
You might shoot a PM to FMTRVT and ask him to take a look at your thread. He's spent years on brake systems.

First truck -- 1929 Model A Ford pickup, restored from ground up. Wish I still had it!
'99.5 F250 PSD Supercab LB 4x4, ZF-6 w/SB Con OFE, 3.73LS, Boost & pyro gauges, Swamps S175/146 injectors, DP 80 HP Econo PCM (classic version
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post #14 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-10-2019, 04:21 PM
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Did all that. Since I haven't since new, I am going to pick up a couple gallons of Mercon V and flush out the old fluid.
If you're flushing the Power Steering system, I would use Mobil 1 ATF. The synthetic should perform better. It's a bit more expensive, but you only need about 3 quarts.

Is the pump making noise?

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post #15 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-10-2019, 06:27 PM Thread Starter
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No, no unusual noises. I used my vacuum pumped to draw down the power steering reservoir but I cannot get to the bottom. There is something blocking access inside the tank. Odd design only allowing me to remove maybe half a quart of fluid. Access to remove the return line to the reservoir means pulling the battery tray with the degas bottle attached. Not sure how get to the bottom of the tank. Another person suggested to disable the ABS system and take the truck for a drive. If the issue disappears, he says a speed sensor is going back. Good possibility since I have checked or replaced everything else. Thank you for your time and help
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