Braking Issue - 2000 F250 - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com
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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-03-2017, 04:09 PM Thread Starter
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Braking Issue - 2000 F250

Background: I noticed something odd this weekend when I was running errands. Every time I was slowing down for a traffic light, the wheel would pull to the left a bit, especially if I took my hands off the wheel. I'm thinking to myself "oh $h!t, I got a freakin' brake issue now."

I was thinking brake pad but then I remembered I'd had a front end brake job (new rotors and new pads - March 2016). So a dim bulb came on over my head - a buddy of mine who is former Marine Corps and a diesel mech warned me a few years back that F250's and F350's of my trucks vintage are known for caliper non-release issues. I got out and felt the wheels, driver side & passenger side. Sure enough, the passenger side was barely warm despite all the stop & go driving but the driver side was almost too warm to touch. I had the same damn thing happen to an '89 Ford Bronco II I used to have and it was the caliper not releasing.

I have a buddy who is willing to help and Advance Auto has a replacement caliper for only $70.99 and with online prepay I think it's even less than that.

Here's My Questions:
This is my first caliper replacement job. What tools do y'all recco I have on hand? What parts & supplies should I have on hand in addition to the caliper - maybe a new brake pad cuz I reckon the old one has to be worn down prematurely from the non-releasing caliper? And I saw something in the reviews mentioning banjo bolts? wth?

As always, thanks in advance for y'alls help. Posting my dumbass questions on here and getting helpful, useful advice has saved me hundreds of dollars; savings that I have used to buy fishing tackle instead!

Thanks,
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2000 F-250 Lariat crew-cab. Bought used in early 2007 at 140k miles, now it's a little over 200k. Basic chip job via SuperTuner at Towing setting. Air Raid air filter. DieselSite thermostat and new housing. Dents repaired and Repainted white by MAACO. Aftermarket LED lights for pickup bed brake light and tail lights. Aftermarket headlights - CCFL halo lights. New fuel/water sep drain valve. New starter motor. New Glow Plug Relay. New alternator & serp belt. New tires all around (NEVER buy Uniroyal or Michelin - they're all junk and they don't honor their warranty). Repaired transmission housing & brake lines that WalMart dinged up during an oil & filter change. Truxedo roll-up tonneau cover. New upper & lower ball joints at 206k miles. New steering box. New tailgate. NEXT PROJECTS: DIY truckbed rust removal & heavy-duty coating, de-water fuel tank.

Last edited by Catch-All; 04-03-2017 at 04:12 PM.
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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-05-2017, 01:11 PM Thread Starter
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caliper only or get bracket too?

I'm fixing to order online to Advance Auto a new caliper. But I noticed that a new caliper is $71 and there is a new caliper w/ bracket for $77. Should I get the caliper and a new bracket or just go with the caliper?

Thanks,
Catch

2000 F-250 Lariat crew-cab. Bought used in early 2007 at 140k miles, now it's a little over 200k. Basic chip job via SuperTuner at Towing setting. Air Raid air filter. DieselSite thermostat and new housing. Dents repaired and Repainted white by MAACO. Aftermarket LED lights for pickup bed brake light and tail lights. Aftermarket headlights - CCFL halo lights. New fuel/water sep drain valve. New starter motor. New Glow Plug Relay. New alternator & serp belt. New tires all around (NEVER buy Uniroyal or Michelin - they're all junk and they don't honor their warranty). Repaired transmission housing & brake lines that WalMart dinged up during an oil & filter change. Truxedo roll-up tonneau cover. New upper & lower ball joints at 206k miles. New steering box. New tailgate. NEXT PROJECTS: DIY truckbed rust removal & heavy-duty coating, de-water fuel tank.
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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-05-2017, 01:14 PM
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Shouldn't need the bracket.
Do you feel like that hunk of steel is worth $6? Lol

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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-05-2017, 02:14 PM
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You may not even need the caliper, but might be the easiest way to fix it. The issue may be just that your slide pins have seized up (corrosion, etc.). You can get replacements for those and clean out the bore in the caliper they go into, lube them with silicone grease and reassemble.
As far as tools, the caliper bracket is held to the knuckle bracket with two bolts torqued to 166 ft lb, so have the appropriate tools and eat your Wheaties before you start the job. You're going to need a proper torque wrench as well. I recommend you never guess on bolt torques on brake stuff. The caliper to caliper bracket bolts go into the slide pins and there's a boot that may need replacing. You may want to do the pads again, because the inboard pad on the one that's binding up may have worn excessively from dragging all the time.

If you undo the brake hose, you should replace the copper washers between the bolt head and hose and the hose and caliper. They work harden and may not seal properly when reused.
Hunt for a post on this forum by FMTRVT about slide pins. Jack is the brake guru on here and can advise you best.
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Last edited by klhansen; 04-05-2017 at 02:23 PM.
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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-06-2017, 11:23 AM
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Bottle of brake fluid also.
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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-06-2017, 01:28 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by klhansen View Post
You may not even need the caliper, but might be the easiest way to fix it. The issue may be just that your slide pins have seized up (corrosion, etc.). You can get replacements for those and clean out the bore in the caliper they go into, lube them with silicone grease and reassemble.
.
Thanks! If it's just slide pins its an easy fix and much cheaper.

I've bought an assload of parts & suupplies for this job so that no matter what the diagnosis is, I'll have all the supplies & tools to hand so I can avoid any mid-stream trips to the auto parts store. Anything unused I can always take back for a refund.

I'll keep all a y'all how it goes.

Catch

2000 F-250 Lariat crew-cab. Bought used in early 2007 at 140k miles, now it's a little over 200k. Basic chip job via SuperTuner at Towing setting. Air Raid air filter. DieselSite thermostat and new housing. Dents repaired and Repainted white by MAACO. Aftermarket LED lights for pickup bed brake light and tail lights. Aftermarket headlights - CCFL halo lights. New fuel/water sep drain valve. New starter motor. New Glow Plug Relay. New alternator & serp belt. New tires all around (NEVER buy Uniroyal or Michelin - they're all junk and they don't honor their warranty). Repaired transmission housing & brake lines that WalMart dinged up during an oil & filter change. Truxedo roll-up tonneau cover. New upper & lower ball joints at 206k miles. New steering box. New tailgate. NEXT PROJECTS: DIY truckbed rust removal & heavy-duty coating, de-water fuel tank.
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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 05-11-2017, 05:07 AM
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If it is the caliper sticking. I'd spend the extra $6 and get the bracket with the new slide pins and boots. I have a friend that had a caliper that would stick once and awhile. He replaced it and it still did it. It ended up being the rubber hose that was bad.


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