Drilled and slotted rotors? - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com
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post #1 of 48 (permalink) Old 09-21-2009, 11:33 AM Thread Starter
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Drilled and slotted rotors?

I have been looking to put drilled and slotted rotors on my truck and have seen some people say not to BC they break or they don't work well. I am looking for some advice from those who have them and what are some diff brands to try and how you like them,thanks in advance for all the replies.

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post #2 of 48 (permalink) Old 09-21-2009, 12:22 PM
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I have a set of EBC's dimmpled and slotted with there green stuff pads and i seem to like them. The price of them isn't cheap but in theory you get what you pay for.

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post #3 of 48 (permalink) Old 09-21-2009, 01:14 PM
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I have been running them for years and I drive my truck like it is stolen. I love them to death because they do not heat fade like the factory ones and your breaks still work if you go through deep water.

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post #4 of 48 (permalink) Old 09-21-2009, 01:28 PM
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NAPA drilled and slotted rotors with their calipers and pads with no issues

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post #5 of 48 (permalink) Old 09-22-2009, 07:59 AM Thread Starter
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How about any one with big tires does it help you stop better?

2000 F250 extended cab XLT, 6 inch lift, 315/75/16 BFG TKO, cold air intake, 6 inch stacks, TDP custom chip, 230cc injectors with 200% nozzles, garret ball bearing turbo, FASS system,20* swamps oil pump,traction bars,custom built 4r100, 3 gauge pillar and gauge kit and a whole lot of the giggly juice
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post #6 of 48 (permalink) Old 09-24-2009, 11:57 AM Thread Starter
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no words of wisdom from the 130 people that read this?

2000 F250 extended cab XLT, 6 inch lift, 315/75/16 BFG TKO, cold air intake, 6 inch stacks, TDP custom chip, 230cc injectors with 200% nozzles, garret ball bearing turbo, FASS system,20* swamps oil pump,traction bars,custom built 4r100, 3 gauge pillar and gauge kit and a whole lot of the giggly juice
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post #7 of 48 (permalink) Old 09-24-2009, 04:41 PM
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Yes, don't use drilled rotors..reduced area equals less stopping power. Just get sloted rotors..Powerslots are great and Hawk pads.

Cary
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post #8 of 48 (permalink) Old 09-25-2009, 06:49 PM
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I tow very heavy all the time. I use hawk heavy duty pads and napa slotted rotors. They work great together. Get slotted not drilled for the same reason as above.

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post #9 of 48 (permalink) Old 09-25-2009, 07:09 PM
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I have had drilled/slotted on my Mustang Cobra for years and love them.
I also have them on my Ex. The stock ones warped right away under any kind of pressure.
They stop you on a dime. I like them. I am no expert however. Just happy to have them.
I would suggest checking out Brake Performance - Slotted and Drilled Brake Rotors
They have slotted, slotted/drilled, slotted/drilled/dimped, black zinc, silver zinc. They have different pads. They have a special with the dimpled w/ free pads.

'03 Excursion, 7.3L, 4X4, Auto tranny of course (they all did), 4" MBRP exhaust, TS performance chip, K&N FIPK w/ an Amsoil EA filter, Hellwig anti-sway bar, drilled/slotted front & rear rotors. Rancho XL shocks, Rancho steering damper, Airlift 5000, S&S Diversified headlight mod. This baby surprises a lot of, so called, performance cars.
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'96 Mustang Cobra convertible, B&M short throw shifter, Koni adjustable shocks, viper chip, drilled/slotted rotors front and rear, rear sequential turn signals.
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post #10 of 48 (permalink) Old 09-25-2009, 07:15 PM
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Oh, and if you want Brembos there is always Brakeworld.

'03 Excursion, 7.3L, 4X4, Auto tranny of course (they all did), 4" MBRP exhaust, TS performance chip, K&N FIPK w/ an Amsoil EA filter, Hellwig anti-sway bar, drilled/slotted front & rear rotors. Rancho XL shocks, Rancho steering damper, Airlift 5000, S&S Diversified headlight mod. This baby surprises a lot of, so called, performance cars.
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'04 F 350, extended cab, 6.0L, FX4, manual tranny, 4" MBRP exhaust, Bully Dog Triple Dog downloader w/ Outlook monitor (Very disappointed in the Bully Dog), 2m-70cm Yaesu ft-8500, S&S Diversified headlight mod.
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'96 Mustang Cobra convertible, B&M short throw shifter, Koni adjustable shocks, viper chip, drilled/slotted rotors front and rear, rear sequential turn signals.
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'11 Harley-Davidson Road King Classic 103 ci PowerPak w/ anti lock brakes & Smart Security system. It even has cruise control!!! Candy Dark Root Beer over Candy Light Root Beer
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post #11 of 48 (permalink) Old 09-26-2009, 10:53 AM
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I had the Magnum brand cross-drilled rotors on my F150.... never any issues. They stopped way better than OE rotors and no more warping problems.

I think the slotted vs drilled theory with one better than the other is an old wive's tale. I never had a cracking on the Magnum rotors and with the right pads they perform excellent with good initial bite and grip. Keep in mind than either design runs cooler than OE and both will have a lot less or next to no fade on repeated hard stops (ie towing heavy).

Magnum Brakes, Reliable and Professional they also have a cryogenic version - even less future problems. If you buy them get them from Elite Parts. I ordered some for my wife's car through Gforcebrakes and the rear rotors didn't fit and they screwed me out of my money after returning the rotors. No probs with Elite Parts.


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post #12 of 48 (permalink) Old 09-28-2009, 04:37 PM
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Apples and apples..F150 and a mustang are not PS trucks..weight. That and loss of friction area no reason at all to go to drilled.
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post #13 of 48 (permalink) Old 09-28-2009, 07:44 PM
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They have certainly improved my braking. As I mentioned, stock rotors warped regularly. Within a week of istallation there would be a time when I would be going down a local hill, you know how San Francisco hills are, and there I would be with warped rotors again.

These drilled and slotted rotors have really done the trick.

Though I have not pulled a 15K# trailer. Anywhere, much less down a San Francisco hill.

'03 Excursion, 7.3L, 4X4, Auto tranny of course (they all did), 4" MBRP exhaust, TS performance chip, K&N FIPK w/ an Amsoil EA filter, Hellwig anti-sway bar, drilled/slotted front & rear rotors. Rancho XL shocks, Rancho steering damper, Airlift 5000, S&S Diversified headlight mod. This baby surprises a lot of, so called, performance cars.
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'04 F 350, extended cab, 6.0L, FX4, manual tranny, 4" MBRP exhaust, Bully Dog Triple Dog downloader w/ Outlook monitor (Very disappointed in the Bully Dog), 2m-70cm Yaesu ft-8500, S&S Diversified headlight mod.
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'96 Mustang Cobra convertible, B&M short throw shifter, Koni adjustable shocks, viper chip, drilled/slotted rotors front and rear, rear sequential turn signals.
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'11 Harley-Davidson Road King Classic 103 ci PowerPak w/ anti lock brakes & Smart Security system. It even has cruise control!!! Candy Dark Root Beer over Candy Light Root Beer
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post #14 of 48 (permalink) Old 09-28-2009, 09:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by caryt View Post
Apples and apples..F150 and a mustang are not PS trucks..weight. That and loss of friction area no reason at all to go to drilled.
Look.... if you really want to get your curly's in a knot.... you also lose surface area with slotted rotors. There's more difference to be made with the type of pad material. In terms of heat sink mass of material in the rotors drilling is probably a very small percentage lighter but negligible.

With the extra venting drilled provides vs slotted in actually keeping the rotor cool, can be compensated with extremely aggressive pads. In other words, less brake fade on extreme braking. Gas buildup between pads and rotor really isn't an issue with street driving.

But I bet any regular driver wouldn't be able to tell the difference between drilled vs slotted in real world driving double-blind trial, using the same pad material. Some even say slotted goes through pads quicker as it's wiping the entire pad surface each groove.

I wonder why they have drilled rotors on my 1L crotch rocket? Your FJR is prob the same. Nice bike BTW, buddy of mine has one. I spent a lot of time on it last year.

Bottom line is either is better than OE so you really can't go wrong.


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2001 F250 4x4 crew lariat 7.3L auto, DP Tuner F5 no-start/valet/20tow/80econo/140aggressive, Adrenaline HPOP, CRUDE diesel performance HPOP lines, NAPC 450series trans w/billet triple disc TC, ISSPRO egt/boost/pyro, foil delete, 6" stainless tip, Magnaflow 17979 4" turbo-back, dieselsite boots & coolant filter kit, boost fooler, 6.0L trans cooler, ported turbo housing, DIY 6637 Tymar, billet grill, line-x bedliner, tint, 08' alum diff cover, clear corners & tails, 20w LED taillight bulbs, Projector headlights w/OPT7 HID kit, 2000w inverter, Tekonsha Primus brake controller, 220A HD alternator, 120w LED light bar up front, 2x18w led spots backup lights, 145USgal tidy tank, superlift 4" kit full springs & bilstein 5125 shocks, 15k 5th wheel hitch, Level8 striker 16x8.5 blk rims, etc.

2009 VW JSW 2.0TDI 6spd Highline. Aftermarket android navi 7" touch head unit, tint, GTI grille and projector fogs.

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Last edited by westvandude; 09-28-2009 at 09:52 PM.
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post #15 of 48 (permalink) Old 09-28-2009, 09:57 PM
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Here's some more reading on the subject:
Quote:
There are many claims as to the benefits of drilled vs slotted rotors on stopping power. This guide is intended to provide some facts about drilled and slotted rotors. As a member of the SAE (Society of Automotive Engineers), I was pleased to see a paper "The Effect of Rotor Crossdrilling on Brake Performance" by two GM engineers published in 2006. They examined three vehicle platforms with cross-drilled rotors vs standard rotors to measure convection cooling capability, fade characteristics, wet braking, pedal feel and lining wear. The result is summarized as follows:
  1. For the sports sedan, the coefficient of friction was 21% higher for drilled rotors than standard front rotors at 340F and higher using 15 brake snubs at 62mph. The track simulated 124 mph fade test showed 37% better brake output for drilled rotors. The drilled rotor brake temperature was about 150 degrees cooler.
  2. For the performance car, the coefficient of friction was significantly higher for drilled rotors especially at high temperature.
  3. Wet braking at high pedal pressure was the same for drilled or standard rotors. Wet braking is not significantly improved by drilled rotors.
  4. Pedal force was much more consistent with drilled rotors over the brake temperature range. That is, to stop at the same deceleration rate, the driver does not need to modulate pedal pressure based on different brake temperatures. This reduces driver fatigue and improves brake response.
The authors also reported that drilled rotors prevent pad resin glazing on the rotor. So we now have solid evidence that drilled rotors have benefits over standard rotors. However, I have not found any published paper to show how slots affect brake output. So I reviewed inertial dynamometer tests using ISO NWI 26867 from Link Testing in Detroit with slotted rotors vs standard rotors. The results showed no significant difference in the coefficient of friction during the fade sections, hot stop section or pedal sensitivity portion of the test. My hypothesis is that slotted rotors do not contribute to rotor cooling whereas drilled rotors improve convection heat transfer to cool rotors and reduce brake fade. I should also point out that the pad lining wear for the slotted rotor was very severe during the test, i.e. the pad was chewed up over 20% more than the lining with stock rotors. While I believe that slots will help remove gas and debri from under the pad, I am not sure that this has a significant effect on brake torque for normal street driving. Perhaps the effect of slotted rotors is more significant on the race track, and conversely, I believe that drilled rotors are better for street and highway driving. For most drivers, I recommend drilled rotors over slotted rotors, and this conclusion is supported by the fact that Corvette, Ford GT, Porsche, Mercedes and BMW come with OEM drilled rotors. Brakemotive store


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2001 F250 4x4 crew lariat 7.3L auto, DP Tuner F5 no-start/valet/20tow/80econo/140aggressive, Adrenaline HPOP, CRUDE diesel performance HPOP lines, NAPC 450series trans w/billet triple disc TC, ISSPRO egt/boost/pyro, foil delete, 6" stainless tip, Magnaflow 17979 4" turbo-back, dieselsite boots & coolant filter kit, boost fooler, 6.0L trans cooler, ported turbo housing, DIY 6637 Tymar, billet grill, line-x bedliner, tint, 08' alum diff cover, clear corners & tails, 20w LED taillight bulbs, Projector headlights w/OPT7 HID kit, 2000w inverter, Tekonsha Primus brake controller, 220A HD alternator, 120w LED light bar up front, 2x18w led spots backup lights, 145USgal tidy tank, superlift 4" kit full springs & bilstein 5125 shocks, 15k 5th wheel hitch, Level8 striker 16x8.5 blk rims, etc.

2009 VW JSW 2.0TDI 6spd Highline. Aftermarket android navi 7" touch head unit, tint, GTI grille and projector fogs.

BioPro190 owner. 40,000L produced 2010-2018.

Last edited by westvandude; 09-28-2009 at 10:03 PM.
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