Drilled and slotted rotors? - Page 3 - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com
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post #31 of 48 (permalink) Old 01-09-2010, 12:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WHB View Post
Rotor is from a track car, but once the a crack extends to another hole or the edge the rotor is done, regardless of the remaining thickness. Track use and towing heavy can be similarly demanding on brake hardware. I much prefer slotted rotors.

Just to add, it's actually not cross-drilled but rather the holes are cast into the rotor, which tends to be better structurally.
I suppose that once the crack gets to edge of an OEM rotor used on the track it, too, is shot.

As I said, the one shown is worn out.

'03 Excursion, 7.3L, 4X4, Auto tranny of course (they all did), 4" MBRP exhaust, TS performance chip, K&N FIPK w/ an Amsoil EA filter, Hellwig anti-sway bar, drilled/slotted front & rear rotors. Rancho XL shocks, Rancho steering damper, Airlift 5000, S&S Diversified headlight mod. This baby surprises a lot of, so called, performance cars.
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'04 F 350, extended cab, 6.0L, FX4, manual tranny, 4" MBRP exhaust, Bully Dog Triple Dog downloader w/ Outlook monitor (Very disappointed in the Bully Dog), 2m-70cm Yaesu ft-8500, S&S Diversified headlight mod.
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'96 Mustang Cobra convertible, B&M short throw shifter, Koni adjustable shocks, viper chip, drilled/slotted rotors front and rear, rear sequential turn signals.
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post #32 of 48 (permalink) Old 01-09-2010, 09:25 AM
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I have over two years and over 40,000 miles on my set of drilled/slotted rotors and I am completely satisfied with my purchase from Rotorpros. The truck tows about 60-70% of this mileage pulling a gooseneck that varies in weight from 8k-12k depending on the job and/or location. I know there are arguments about the usefullness of this type of rotors on our trucks, or that they will crack, or that they will ......blah, blah, blah. I know that I will NEVER install a set of regular replacement rotors on anything with four wheels again. I know they work, because I work them everyday. I am not saying they will stop on a dime and give you change back I just know they are alot better than what came on the truck originally. I've installed them on our '99 F250 Lariat 4x4, 2000 F250 4x4, '03 F250 KR 4x4, '03 F550 Longhorn Hauler, '02 Toyota sequioa, and a '79 Ranchero so I have a little bit of experience with them. I hope this helps. Todd

2000 F250 ext cab XLT 4x4 7.3L w/6 spd. Additions: 100 ga. aux. fuel tank w/ electric pump, Warn 12K winch and Transformer winch mount, 6637 Kwik filter, Mbrp 4" turbo back exhaust w/ straight pipe, Isspro pyro and boost gauges in dual pillar mount, TS performance 6 position flip chip, '08 rear diff cover, front and rear aux. lighting, homemade CCV mod., A/C mod., B&W gooseneck underbed ball mount, Rotor Pros drilled and slotted rotors and low dust pads, 6.0L intercooler, urethane sway bar bushings, shimmed FPR to 68 psi, AIH delete, 8" woofers in each rear door, 10" custom box behind flip down center console, Pioneer 6x8's in front doors, US Acoustics amp, Hornblasters Train horn. Southbend Con-Ofe, 285/75/16 Bridgestone Dueler Revo 2 AT's, Hutch and Harpoon fuel tank mods, in-dash Kenwood DDX 7015 DVD, headlight mod w/ diode and the list goes on & on.......
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post #33 of 48 (permalink) Old 01-09-2010, 10:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt0987 View Post
I suppose that once the crack gets to edge of an OEM rotor used on the track it, too, is shot.

As I said, the one shown is worn out.
That is an OEM rotor. However, on a slotted rotor the cracks don't start as early and thus their spreading doesn't become a problem. The "limiting factor" in that rotor's lifespan is the spread of cracks (Though the pictured rotor is actually still usable). In slotted or solid rotors for the same application, they can be used until material thickness becomes the issue.

In our application, though, I think the "benefit" of drilled rotors is that aftermarket parts are simply built better than the Ford pieces. I think a high-quality, aftermarket solid/slotted rotor would do just as well if not better than a drilled or drilled/slotted rotor would.

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post #34 of 48 (permalink) Old 01-09-2010, 10:52 AM
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In our application, though, I think the "benefit" of drilled rotors is that aftermarket parts are simply built better than the Ford pieces. I think a high-quality, aftermarket solid/slotted rotor would do just as well if not better than a drilled or drilled/slotted rotor would.
What about an aftermarket rotor is "built better"? Why do you think a solid/slotted rotor would work better on a SD?

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post #35 of 48 (permalink) Old 01-09-2010, 01:16 PM
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It is my understanding that the slotted eat the pads up faster so in the future I plan on staying away form the drilled/slotted. How much I do not know. 1%. 10%. 50%. I have not read.

Now, according to FMTRVT, who seems to have some experiance with these things, when you get down to it there is a lot of variables based on pad compositions and the composition of the metal the rotors are maunfactured of. And, as WHB suggested, whether they are drilled or fabricated with the holes w/out drilling. That must be an interesting process.

Also, who is to say, generically, that aftermarket products are better than OEM. I would guess that there are those that are. And those that aren't. I am sure cost plays a factor is what OEM products are used as well as safety. That is why we have Lincolns and Fords. Our pocketbook determines what products are put on which product line.

Either way, from what I have read, when you buy your rotors (solid, OEM, slotted, aftermarket, or drilled) and pads you need to keep an eye on them just as you do the level of oil in the engine.

And, just as you can get differeing opinions about which oil is best, Amsoil or Rotella (Or Rotella Vs which version of Rotella for that matter) you will get varying opinons on which rotor manufacturer and pad manufacturer and the variables from each one.

But, too, if it weren't for all of these variables these forums would get pretty boreing!

'03 Excursion, 7.3L, 4X4, Auto tranny of course (they all did), 4" MBRP exhaust, TS performance chip, K&N FIPK w/ an Amsoil EA filter, Hellwig anti-sway bar, drilled/slotted front & rear rotors. Rancho XL shocks, Rancho steering damper, Airlift 5000, S&S Diversified headlight mod. This baby surprises a lot of, so called, performance cars.
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'04 F 350, extended cab, 6.0L, FX4, manual tranny, 4" MBRP exhaust, Bully Dog Triple Dog downloader w/ Outlook monitor (Very disappointed in the Bully Dog), 2m-70cm Yaesu ft-8500, S&S Diversified headlight mod.
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'96 Mustang Cobra convertible, B&M short throw shifter, Koni adjustable shocks, viper chip, drilled/slotted rotors front and rear, rear sequential turn signals.
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'11 Harley-Davidson Road King Classic 103 ci PowerPak w/ anti lock brakes & Smart Security system. It even has cruise control!!! Candy Dark Root Beer over Candy Light Root Beer
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post #36 of 48 (permalink) Old 01-09-2010, 02:18 PM
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I hate to keep adding fuel to the fire on which is better, there will always be a down side in the non-believers eyes. I have used three different types of rotors on my truck. First were the stock ones which were on the truck when I purchased it used so I can't attest to their treatment, but they were shaking when brakes were applied. I replaced the factory units with top of the line Raybestos (from Carquest)all the way around these rotors were over $150 each IIRC and probably another $100 or so for semi-met pads. I replaced alot of parts dealing with the brakes before these rotors were installed(all slide pins, calipers, brake lines and evacuated the fluid), then torqued all the bolts including lug nuts to spec. and ended with burnishing the pads to the rotors. I allowed about a week before towing anything to give the brakes time to bed-in, even with all the above treatment the shaking returned at about the 60 day mark to say the least I was pissed. I didn't want to spend another $700 on the same parts that failed so my only option I could see was drilled and slotted. I researched, took advice for and against then weighed my options, I found Rich at Rotorpros.com and he gave me a 6 month warranty against warping or cracking(it is a year as of now) plus I got all four rotors with Posi-quiet low dust pads delivered for $350 I bit the bullet and haven't looked back since. I know the solid undrilled rotors turned a bluish color from the heat of my braking, still today after over two years my drilled/slotted haven't as of yet approached this bluish tint from the heat. I know they (D/S) don't heat fade like the stock or aftermarket solid rotors do. I have been keeping tabs on the pad life and I will admit the pads do wear a little faster because of the slots but with over 40k miles they still have half the friction material left. I'll also admit that these D/S rotors I purchased aren't top of the line, some say the cryo rotors are better or a certain pad is better I'm sure there is better but at what cost to benefit raio. I am sorry for being longwinded, I just wanted to give the results on what I've tried good or bad and with 6 vehicles with these D/S rotors I can attest to their advantages over stock/replacement rotors. I don't mean to sway your decision to or from these rotors, all I know is they work very effectively for my needs at a cost that is very economical to my wallet. I hope this helps in any way. WHEW! Todd

2000 F250 ext cab XLT 4x4 7.3L w/6 spd. Additions: 100 ga. aux. fuel tank w/ electric pump, Warn 12K winch and Transformer winch mount, 6637 Kwik filter, Mbrp 4" turbo back exhaust w/ straight pipe, Isspro pyro and boost gauges in dual pillar mount, TS performance 6 position flip chip, '08 rear diff cover, front and rear aux. lighting, homemade CCV mod., A/C mod., B&W gooseneck underbed ball mount, Rotor Pros drilled and slotted rotors and low dust pads, 6.0L intercooler, urethane sway bar bushings, shimmed FPR to 68 psi, AIH delete, 8" woofers in each rear door, 10" custom box behind flip down center console, Pioneer 6x8's in front doors, US Acoustics amp, Hornblasters Train horn. Southbend Con-Ofe, 285/75/16 Bridgestone Dueler Revo 2 AT's, Hutch and Harpoon fuel tank mods, in-dash Kenwood DDX 7015 DVD, headlight mod w/ diode and the list goes on & on.......
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post #37 of 48 (permalink) Old 01-09-2010, 02:39 PM
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Quote:
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Now, according to FMTRVT, who seems to have some experiance with these things...
D'YA THINK!!

When Jack talks (types) about brakes. I listen (read). Everyone else would be well advised to do the same.

He has years of experience with braking systems on multilpe vehicle types. He's earned the title of "TDS Brake Guru" in my book.

First truck -- 1929 Model A Ford pickup, restored from ground up. Wish I still had it!
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post #38 of 48 (permalink) Old 01-09-2010, 05:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Matt0987 View Post
Also, who is to say, generically, that aftermarket products are better than OEM. I would guess that there are those that are. And those that aren't. I am sure cost plays a factor is what OEM products are used as well as safety. That is why we have Lincolns and Fords. Our pocketbook determines what products are put on which product line.
I didn't mean to come across as saying "all aftermarket rotors are better than Ford rotors." I think that benefits seen by certain aftermarket, drilled rotors are more likely a result of other factors (such as metallurgy, thickness, cooling vanes, etc.) than the fact that the rotors have holes in them.
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post #39 of 48 (permalink) Old 02-24-2010, 11:06 PM
 
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Sorry to bump an old thread, but I thought it was a pretty interesting read overall. I just wanted to correct one thing:
Quote:
WRX- you know the vehicle with the fake hood scoop because it sells “high performance”. Like factory cars with drilled rotors.
The WRX (and STI) hoodscoop is very functional - it directs air to the top mounted intercooler, as you can see in the attached picture (the space on the left lets air get down to the turbocharger area).

If you're thinking fake hood scoops "selling performance", I think you're thinking of the 2005-2009 Mustang GTs (I kid, I kid! I still like Mustangs too).

I was wondering if anyone has come across anything like the SAE paper referenced above, except for slotted rotors. I'm not interested in the cross-drilled look, but am curious to see if there are any hard experimental data on the effects of slotting rotors.
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post #40 of 48 (permalink) Old 02-24-2010, 11:55 PM
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Drilled and slotted rotors are the only way to go IMHO. Can't go wrong with www.ROTORPROS.net. I had them on my 2002 and they never missed a beat for 80k. Never had one issue; no shutter, no fade, nothing. It was all good. When I need new brakes on my 2008, that's who I'm calling.

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post #41 of 48 (permalink) Old 02-25-2010, 12:24 AM
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Got mine from R1 performance and they rock.

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post #42 of 48 (permalink) Old 02-25-2010, 10:41 AM
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Just installed EBC 3GD Dimpled and Slotted Rotors with Hawk Pads and Russell Brake Lines, this weekend. Currently experiencing some problems with bleeding, had a problem mounting the Russell lines, still waiting to hear back from Russell's engineer and apparently there is some air trapped in the ABS module. Once I get everything ironed out, I will give a review of what I think.

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post #43 of 48 (permalink) Old 02-25-2010, 10:55 AM
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FMTRVT has explained, in detail, drilled and slotted rotors on SD trucks a few times on this site. Here is the short version. Slots will help if your brake temps get to 800°. The way most people use their truck they only get to about 500°. Use your nose, if you can smell them you would benefit from some slots. If you can't smell them, any benefit from slots is just wishful thinking.

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post #44 of 48 (permalink) Old 02-25-2010, 07:41 PM
 
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I know he has explained in detail, but I was looking for hard, experimental data to back up his statements.
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post #45 of 48 (permalink) Old 02-25-2010, 09:24 PM
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That goes against my confidentiality agreement with the company I worked for. Or would you rather see me be unethical and violate the law?

This is a common problem for any of us that work or worked in the industry. We didn't pay for the tests or work; we were the employees of a business that owns what was done.

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