Need Rear Rotors- Powerslots worth it, or autopart store good? - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com
Wheels, Tires, Brakes, and Suspension Discuss your wheels, tires, brakes & suspension topics here.
Sponsored by Discount Tire

 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 02-06-2016, 07:28 AM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: NY
Posts: 3,263
My Photos: (5)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Need Rear Rotors- Powerslots worth it, or autopart store good?

My rear rotors are finally shot after 15 years. I have powerslots in the front, but is that really necessary for the rear? I haven't priced them yet, but I am sure they are not cheap. I thought about just using an advance auto coupon code and picking them up from the local store. Also, what is the removal procedure like on the rears? Thanks.

2002 F-250, PSD 6-speed, CC, short bed, 4X4, Toreador Red w/ Silver accent, A.R.E mx cap, Weld Super Single II and 33s in the summer, x-springs, F-350 blocks and badges, AIC, proflaps, ITP intank mod, AirDog with 3 micron filter, isspro guages and TTM, scangauge, husky liners, alarm, xm stereo,stull 5399-p grille, centramatics, ccv mod, AIS Air Filter, Southbend CON O, Detroit Truetrac LSD, coolant filter, 203 stat with billet housing, blackcloud intake heater plug/boost fitting, reese titan hitch, fabcraft PTO cover/temp sender port, prodigy brake controller, ITP Boost Annihalator, oilguard bypass filter, Mag-Hytec rear dif, bilsteins, hellwig rear stabilizer bar, ATS housing, non-ebpv pedistal and exhaust flange, magnaflow 3.5dp exhaust, ITP reg return, turbomaster wastegate controller, and ceramic coated bellowed up pipes, PHP 50t and 80p, currently 127,000 miles.
clydesdale is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 02-06-2016, 06:46 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: NY
Posts: 3,263
My Photos: (5)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
oops. I did not know there was a separate forum for brakes. Mods - Feel free to move this. Thanks.

2002 F-250, PSD 6-speed, CC, short bed, 4X4, Toreador Red w/ Silver accent, A.R.E mx cap, Weld Super Single II and 33s in the summer, x-springs, F-350 blocks and badges, AIC, proflaps, ITP intank mod, AirDog with 3 micron filter, isspro guages and TTM, scangauge, husky liners, alarm, xm stereo,stull 5399-p grille, centramatics, ccv mod, AIS Air Filter, Southbend CON O, Detroit Truetrac LSD, coolant filter, 203 stat with billet housing, blackcloud intake heater plug/boost fitting, reese titan hitch, fabcraft PTO cover/temp sender port, prodigy brake controller, ITP Boost Annihalator, oilguard bypass filter, Mag-Hytec rear dif, bilsteins, hellwig rear stabilizer bar, ATS housing, non-ebpv pedistal and exhaust flange, magnaflow 3.5dp exhaust, ITP reg return, turbomaster wastegate controller, and ceramic coated bellowed up pipes, PHP 50t and 80p, currently 127,000 miles.
clydesdale is offline  
post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 02-07-2016, 12:15 AM
Lifetime Supporting Member
 
klhansen's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Eagle River, Alaska
Posts: 24,387
My Photos: (180)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
When I did rear brakes, I just went with loaded calipers and rotors from the dealer. Aftermarket rotors are not needed, IMO. But I'd at least buy the highest quality line rotors if you go to your local parts store.

First truck -- 1929 Model A Ford pickup, restored from ground up. Wish I still had it!
'99.5 F250 PSD Supercab LB 4x4, ZF-6 w/SB Con OFE, 3.73LS, Boost & pyro gauges, Swamps S175/146 injectors, DP 80 HP Econo PCM (classic version
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
), AIS,
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
regulated return,
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.



To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
klhansen is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 02-07-2016, 10:51 AM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Chicago
Posts: 414
My Photos: (0)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
I went with suggestions from this site.

Even though dually front rotors are expensive, no matter where you buy them.
I bought mine through Ford and loaded calipers.

2002 F350 7.3 psd supercab dually 2wd, AIS, Moog joints, Bilstein, Michelin Defender LTX, Dieselsite coolant filter, red ELC, prepump spin-on fuel filter, 254,500 miles, hutch/harpoon mod, marinco mod, scan gauge ll, Zoodad, Dieselsite boots, pedestal delete, CNC Fab w/ crossover oil lines, 6.0 trans cooler, replaced oil pan, Walker BTM, Denso starter

1974 CJ6 ... off the frame needs work
2013 Expedition... wife's car
Panhead ... 53 motor, 51 tanks, B grind cam, S&S carb, points, drum brakes ... It doesn't just sit in the garage
panhead george is offline  
post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 02-07-2016, 12:14 PM
Senior Member
 
Steve83's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Memphis, TN 38133, USA, Earth, Milky Way
Posts: 1,610
My Photos: (0)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Quote:
Originally Posted by clydesdale View Post
I have powerslots in the front, but is that really necessary for the rear?
Anything that reduces the surface area in-contact between the pads & rotors 1) reduces the braking force given the same pedal force; OR 2) increases the pedal force necessary to achieve the same braking force; AND 3) increases brake temperature given the same braking force; AND 4) increases pad & rotor wear given the same braking force.

That's essentially the same as what Wilwood says about its own (and any other brand's) drilled/slotted rotors.



For the best braking, lowest temperatures, and longest life, you want the biggest, flattest pads & rotors you can fit in there. The more pistons a caliper has (per side), the flatter the pads will remain.

Cryo-nodular-ceramic-cobalt-whatever rotors are gimmicks. If you want the best, buy the brand Ford controls. They're not much (if any) more expensive than local parts-store junk.



To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Last edited by Steve83; 02-07-2016 at 12:17 PM.
Steve83 is offline  
post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 02-07-2016, 06:17 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: NY
Posts: 3,263
My Photos: (5)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
So, what it sounds like is that I should try to get the best possible price on original motorcraft?

2002 F-250, PSD 6-speed, CC, short bed, 4X4, Toreador Red w/ Silver accent, A.R.E mx cap, Weld Super Single II and 33s in the summer, x-springs, F-350 blocks and badges, AIC, proflaps, ITP intank mod, AirDog with 3 micron filter, isspro guages and TTM, scangauge, husky liners, alarm, xm stereo,stull 5399-p grille, centramatics, ccv mod, AIS Air Filter, Southbend CON O, Detroit Truetrac LSD, coolant filter, 203 stat with billet housing, blackcloud intake heater plug/boost fitting, reese titan hitch, fabcraft PTO cover/temp sender port, prodigy brake controller, ITP Boost Annihalator, oilguard bypass filter, Mag-Hytec rear dif, bilsteins, hellwig rear stabilizer bar, ATS housing, non-ebpv pedistal and exhaust flange, magnaflow 3.5dp exhaust, ITP reg return, turbomaster wastegate controller, and ceramic coated bellowed up pipes, PHP 50t and 80p, currently 127,000 miles.
clydesdale is offline  
post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 02-07-2016, 10:13 PM
Lifetime Supporting Member
 
klhansen's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Eagle River, Alaska
Posts: 24,387
My Photos: (180)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Quote:
Originally Posted by clydesdale View Post
So, what it sounds like is that I should try to get the best possible price on original motorcraft?
If you're not in a giant rush, get them thru AutoNation Ford White Bear Lake. I just got parts to do front brakes (hoses, pads, caliper kits, slide pins, etc) thru them after trying to match up my front hoses locally without success. You can either just go to their site www.parts.autonationwhitebearlake.com or post in their forum if you have questions. Mike was very helpful in getting met the correct parts.

First truck -- 1929 Model A Ford pickup, restored from ground up. Wish I still had it!
'99.5 F250 PSD Supercab LB 4x4, ZF-6 w/SB Con OFE, 3.73LS, Boost & pyro gauges, Swamps S175/146 injectors, DP 80 HP Econo PCM (classic version
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
), AIS,
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
regulated return,
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.



To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
klhansen is offline  
post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 02-08-2016, 12:27 AM
Senior Member
 
Steve83's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Memphis, TN 38133, USA, Earth, Milky Way
Posts: 1,610
My Photos: (0)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Quote:
Originally Posted by clydesdale View Post
...original motorcraft?
Yes, check the price of MC parts before buying any others.

No, MC parts are not necessarily "original". Ford doesn't make parts; it makes vehicles. It orders parts from mfrs. who agree to & actually DO meet all Ford specifications; sometimes, they use Ford designs - other times, Ford buys "off-the-shelf" parts that suit its vehicles. There can be MANY suppliers (OEMs) of any one part to the assembly line (OE parts). But the suppliers of parts in MC boxes & bags are NOT always the same mfrs. who supply the assembly line, and the supplier can change over the years (for both OE & MC parts). But no matter who's making MC parts or the country of origin, Ford will only allow them to go into MC boxes if they still meet Ford's latest specs for that part. The same supplier might also make OE pads & rotors for Honda & Caterpillar; and for NAPA & the zone. And each one has its own specs for that mfr. to follow. So just because a rotor comes from the same mfr. as a MC rotor, that doesn't mean it meets Ford specs unless it has the Ford logo on the part.

It's a subtle distinction, but worth being aware of.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Steve83 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

  Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com > Other Topics > Wheels, Tires, Brakes, and Suspension

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in











Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome