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post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old 05-09-2019, 11:31 AM Thread Starter
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One piece hub/rotor question

Are there certain year models of 250's and Excursions that used the one piece hub/rotor vs the removable rotor? The one piece deal sure makes for a lot of extra cost and labor when you only need new rotors.
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post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old 05-09-2019, 10:21 PM
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The 2WD units used one-piece hub and rotors. The wheel bearings on them are separate and serviceable, unlike the unit bearing hubs use on 4WD trucks.

First truck -- 1929 Model A Ford pickup, restored from ground up. Wish I still had it!
'99.5 F250 PSD Supercab LB 4x4, ZF-6 w/SB Con OFE, 3.73LS, Boost & pyro gauges, Swamps S175/146 injectors, DP 80 HP Econo PCM (classic version
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post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old 05-10-2019, 04:34 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks. So on my 2wd when removing the hub/rotor I can either repack or replace the bearings? Also, do you recommend turning (if possible) or replacing the rotors? I'm starting to have a vibration during heavy breaking.
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post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old 05-10-2019, 07:55 AM
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If you have a hard spot in the rotors, turning them is a very short term fix. Ford recommends replacement instead of turning.
FMTRVT (Jack, our resident brake guru) has an excellent discussion on the "warped rotor" myth.

First truck -- 1929 Model A Ford pickup, restored from ground up. Wish I still had it!
'99.5 F250 PSD Supercab LB 4x4, ZF-6 w/SB Con OFE, 3.73LS, Boost & pyro gauges, Swamps S175/146 injectors, DP 80 HP Econo PCM (classic version
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post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old 05-10-2019, 02:34 PM
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Very few shops will turn a rotor anymore.

It is just cheaper to replace them.

96 F250 PS XLT 4X4 long box, 5sp,4.10, manual hubs,pyro+boost guages, Dark Toumaline, add a leaf, Dale's TYMAR, and HX hose, downpipe, coolant filter, Luk clutch
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post #6 of 6 (permalink) Old 05-13-2019, 05:46 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the info fellas.
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