Rear Brake wear - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com
Wheels, Tires, Brakes, and Suspension Discuss your wheels, tires, brakes & suspension topics here.

Forum sponsored by: Discount Tire

 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old 09-18-2019, 12:23 PM Thread Starter
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 83
My Photos: (0)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Rear Brake wear

2001 RWD F250

This is a very basic question that I have just started wondering about. My truck was fitted out with cheap brake pads last August. Both front and rear were completely gone. I was told that cheap brake pads tended to have a 1 year lifespan, so I took it in for a brake pad replacement. The rear brakes were very worn but the front brakes had over 60% of wear left. I was told by a friend that in cars rear brakes usually lasted much longer than front brakes. So my question.

Do these heavy diesel trucks put more wear on the rear brakes in normal driving than cars? I have used the truck several times this past year with a flatbed trailer to haul heavy things--my tractor and 4500 lb loads of hay, but only once or twice each. The trailer does not have trailer brakes, so I know that would put extra pressure on the rear brakes, but the truck itself is also very heavy compared to a car. In normal use would this kind of truck use up rear pads more than front ones?

I have now replaced the rear brakes with severe duty pads.
vineyridge is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old 09-18-2019, 02:20 PM
Senior Member
 
JJEdwards's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 116
My Photos: (0)
Garage
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Simple answer is NO. Physics...If both front and rear calipers are functioning properly, there will be more wear faster on the front brake pads. I suspect that your front brakes are not functioning properly. Bleed the entire system and see what you find. Possibly burnt fluid.

2000 7.3 PSD 4x4 Auto Trans., CC, short box 207,500 miles.
PHP Hydra, Bilstein 5100's, Bilstein steering stabilizers, Auto Meter 3 gauge pod--EGT, Trans Temp & Boost, Deep Trans Pan, Rotella ELC and T6 oil, DieselSite 203*, Riffraff Billet wheel, 4" turbo back MBRP 5" straight pipe, Donaldson 6637 blue, 20" Fuel wheels wrapped with 37" MT's
Security: Ravelco (for the pro's), Viper (for the rookies), The Club 1100 Steering Wheel Lock (visual deterrent).
JJEdwards is offline  
post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old 09-19-2019, 10:35 AM
Senior Member
 
Steve83's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Memphis, TN 38133, USA, Earth, Milky Way
Posts: 1,703
My Photos: (0)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Your description is choppy, so I'm not sure what happened in what order. But I agree that a brake system malfunction is the most-likely cause. Were the brakes cleaned & greased properly during assembly?


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Steve83 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old 09-19-2019, 04:51 PM Thread Starter
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 83
My Photos: (0)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Here's what happened. Back last summer, I had both front and rear brake pads installed by a shade tree mechanic who has worked for me for years. They were the cheapest ones Auto Zone sold for my truck. I have no idea if he cleaned the brakes and greased them during assembly. At the time, the shade tree mechanic told me that those brake pads usually lasted about a year and that the front ones wore faster than the rear ones.

The year was up, so I decided to have new brake pads installed--better ones. Yesterday I took my rig to a local tire shop with mechanics that I have used for years. It's a completely local business . Unfortunately I had bought two sets of rear pads by mistake, so they installed the new rear pads and said that the rear pads were almost gone. They didn't suggest buying new front ones because they said the front pads showed only about 40% wear. The set of rear brakes that they installed came with grease, so I'm sure they did use that on the rear.

I also had my trailer wheels serviced. The bearings were packed, and I was told that they were all "loose", so they were "tightened up."

After I got the truck and trailer back yesterday, a friend took it on a road trip and brought me home 4 round bales of hay. When he dropped off the rig, he told me that he had heard a roaring on the driver's side that might be a wheel bearing going bad.

This morning I took the truck back to the shop after reading that the front brakes should wear faster than the rear ones. I have just heard back from them.

The brake fluid was clean. They checked the calipers and rotors and found nothing wrong. They checked the wheel bearings and said they were all "tight" and nothing was wrong. I asked them if they had repacked the bearings and was told that this truck had a unified hub and bearing system and didn't need repacking. Now I was talking to the front desk person, not the actual mechanic. One of the guys who worked there told me that the front desk guy isn't always right, but the mechanics do know what they are doing.

I feel that if the mechanics had found something wrong, they would have told the front desk guy that something needed work.

I'm a bit confused, because you can buy wheel bearings for this truck separately from the hub. Do they need regular repacking or not?

This is my third 7.3L F250, albeit a 2001, and I've never had a minute's problem with the wheels and hubs. Brakes yes, but that's because I didn't understand about needing to replace brake pads as often as these seem to need replacing.

Right now, I'm only going to use severe duty stuff on this truck because it does pull trailers.

Last edited by vineyridge; 09-19-2019 at 04:56 PM.
vineyridge is offline  
post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old 09-19-2019, 06:02 PM
Lifetime Supporting Member
Lifetime Supporting Member
 
Big Horn's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2018
Location: Southern Illinois
Posts: 413
My Photos: (0)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Quote:
Originally Posted by vineyridge View Post

I'm a bit confused, because you can buy wheel bearings for this truck separately from the hub. Do they need regular repacking or not?

Just to be clear, you’re saying it’s a 2WD truck? If so attached is a previous post on maintaining the front bearings:

http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/...earings-40609/

2002 F350 7.3L / 4R100 - 4WD CC DRW 8 Box, AIH Delete, Gauges- Pyro, Trans Temp, Boost, Fuel Pressure, TS-6 tuner, Zoodad Mod, Mishimoto 31 row Trans cooler, Mobil 1 ATF, Trans return line ATF filter, Hutch/Harpoon Mod, Air Lift Load Lifter 5000 rear air springs, Rancho 9000 shocks, Timbrens on the front.
Big Horn is offline  
post #6 of 6 (permalink) Old 09-19-2019, 06:22 PM
Lifetime Supporting Member
 
ArcticDriver's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Longmont, CO
Posts: 3,705
My Photos: (0)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Could the roaring on the right side have been the trailer loaded with round bales?

I agree the mechanics would have notified you if they found a problem.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
2002 F-250 4x4 CC SB 7.3 PSD w/4R100. 182,000 miles.
NOS Black CPS. ScanGauge-II, AIC, Bilstein 5100, Stancor GPR, Marinco Mod, B&W Turnover Ball, Michelin Defender LTX


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
2002 F-250 4x4 SC LB 7.3 PSD w/ZF-6. 177,000 miles.
NOS Black CPS. ScanGauge-II. Bilstein 5100. Stancor GPR. Walker BTM. Noco Mod. Michelin Defender LTX 285/75/16.

SOLD:
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
2000 F-250 4x4 SC SB 7.3 PSD w/4R100. 164,000 miles.
NOS Black CPS. Rebuilt Fuel bowl w/gold spring, 6.0 Cooler, Walker BTM, Stancor GPR, Michelin LTX M&S2.
ArcticDriver is online now  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

  Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com > Other Topics > Wheels, Tires, Brakes, and Suspension

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in











Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome