Suspension getting old - leaf springs - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com
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post #1 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-17-2018, 07:26 PM Thread Starter
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Suspension getting old - leaf springs

So I searched and didn't find answers to my questions;
Okay, so now that my sway bars are done, and my engine quieter due to fuel mods, I'm hearing lots of squeaks seemingly below me. I suspect it's the leaf spring bushings and the parts they connect to. I rocked the truck by the door frame and my buddy felt vibes near the driver side front leaf spring rear bushing.
So what parts do the springs attach to and do they also have bushings. I haven't studied my truck yet or took anything apart, but there must be hangars and/or shackles, right?
Given the age of the truck, I'm prepared to replace or upgrade all the soft parts.
So what did some of you do to quiet the suspension down?

2000 F250 XLT 4x4 SC 7.3 w/Auto Tranny w/ TC L/U Sw & shift kit, 3 autometer gages, Super Zoodad, PHP Hydra chip, 4" DP/Exhaust w/dual 3.5" outlets, 275/70/18 Kumho AT51s on 8.5" rims, 08 AlumDiffCvr, Bilsteins, 31 row trans cooler, WW, BPV delete, AIH delete, hutch, harpoon and billet FPR (70psi), trans cooler bypass delete by accident, rear air bags, Jimmijammers.
Jayco 26BHS elite, no RV parks...just the woods if possible.
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post #2 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-17-2018, 08:58 PM
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I replaced my sets bar bushings and end links and itís got rid of most of the noise.

I donít think the oem spring bushings are replaceable

99.5 f250 7.3 4x4- 277k FF 160/30, Hydra w/SDK Tunes, S&B CAI, 4" Exhaust, Van turbo w/Riffraff Billet wheel, Autometer Gauges, Built Trans, Trucool Max, 08 Tow Mirrors.


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post #3 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-17-2018, 10:59 PM Thread Starter
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Oddly enough, my old sway bar parts only made a bit more noise than now...

2000 F250 XLT 4x4 SC 7.3 w/Auto Tranny w/ TC L/U Sw & shift kit, 3 autometer gages, Super Zoodad, PHP Hydra chip, 4" DP/Exhaust w/dual 3.5" outlets, 275/70/18 Kumho AT51s on 8.5" rims, 08 AlumDiffCvr, Bilsteins, 31 row trans cooler, WW, BPV delete, AIH delete, hutch, harpoon and billet FPR (70psi), trans cooler bypass delete by accident, rear air bags, Jimmijammers.
Jayco 26BHS elite, no RV parks...just the woods if possible.
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post #4 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-19-2018, 08:58 AM Thread Starter
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So after more interwebbing I see a couple of options for new poly bushings out there. The full set is 6 of them.
Has anyone replaced them without removing the springs completely?
How about the shackle/hanger bushing?
One video shows using a gear puller.

2000 F250 XLT 4x4 SC 7.3 w/Auto Tranny w/ TC L/U Sw & shift kit, 3 autometer gages, Super Zoodad, PHP Hydra chip, 4" DP/Exhaust w/dual 3.5" outlets, 275/70/18 Kumho AT51s on 8.5" rims, 08 AlumDiffCvr, Bilsteins, 31 row trans cooler, WW, BPV delete, AIH delete, hutch, harpoon and billet FPR (70psi), trans cooler bypass delete by accident, rear air bags, Jimmijammers.
Jayco 26BHS elite, no RV parks...just the woods if possible.
See my album for a recent pic.
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post #5 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-19-2018, 04:10 PM Thread Starter
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So after inspecting the bushing areas, I can't tell if the front or the back attaches to the part that also has rubber bushings. That part will probably have to come out also...
On my old stang, the rear of the spring had a shackle with another bushing, but it was way obvious and pretty easy to get to.

2000 F250 XLT 4x4 SC 7.3 w/Auto Tranny w/ TC L/U Sw & shift kit, 3 autometer gages, Super Zoodad, PHP Hydra chip, 4" DP/Exhaust w/dual 3.5" outlets, 275/70/18 Kumho AT51s on 8.5" rims, 08 AlumDiffCvr, Bilsteins, 31 row trans cooler, WW, BPV delete, AIH delete, hutch, harpoon and billet FPR (70psi), trans cooler bypass delete by accident, rear air bags, Jimmijammers.
Jayco 26BHS elite, no RV parks...just the woods if possible.
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post #6 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-19-2018, 04:57 PM
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If you do a search on leaf spring squeak, I think you will find some info on replacing some plastic anti-squeak pads between the front springs.
DENNY
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Early 1999 F350 AUTO 4x4 CC LB DRW 4.10 6.0 trans cooler, Front hitch, 2,000 hubs/ brakes, Bilstein shocks/steering stabilizer, Diesel site coolant filter 203 thermostat, EBV delete, new O-rings, new Oil cooler, RIFF RAFF FRX, Glow plug led, Pillar gauges, Lighted cupholder, Painless wiring fuze block, Harpoon/hutch mods, Removed axle blocks. Air bags, 5 wheel hitch, In bed 7 pin plug. Spare tire key delete. KLHANSEN on speed dial. 75,000 as of May 2019
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post #7 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-19-2018, 09:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DENNY View Post
If you do a search on leaf spring squeak, I think you will find some info on replacing some plastic anti-squeak pads between the front springs.
DENNY
milk jug work perfect for these, we've used em for years, HDPE is very resist to scuffing and has mild lubricative properties






Quote:
Originally Posted by 69mach1377 View Post
So after more interwebbing I see a couple of options for new poly bushings out there. The full set is 6 of them.
Has anyone replaced them without removing the springs completely?
How about the shackle/hanger bushing?
One video shows using a gear puller.
easiest way is to use a torch to burn em out... EASIEST... not cleanest but veeeery easy... most times the rubber shells the rubber is bonded to rusts into the spring eyelet and it's usually impossible to get out with normal means unless it's always been rather clean and rust free


also if you think your truck rides rough now, if you put poly in there it's going to be HELL... I run poly on my cars (cept the vet) but if you want LESS noise and sqeaking and more comfort then stay with rubber

-'97 F250HD 4x4 7.3-
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-'76 LS408 Stingray-
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post #8 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-20-2018, 09:38 AM Thread Starter
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Yeah, poly might be too much and it might squeak as well.

2000 F250 XLT 4x4 SC 7.3 w/Auto Tranny w/ TC L/U Sw & shift kit, 3 autometer gages, Super Zoodad, PHP Hydra chip, 4" DP/Exhaust w/dual 3.5" outlets, 275/70/18 Kumho AT51s on 8.5" rims, 08 AlumDiffCvr, Bilsteins, 31 row trans cooler, WW, BPV delete, AIH delete, hutch, harpoon and billet FPR (70psi), trans cooler bypass delete by accident, rear air bags, Jimmijammers.
Jayco 26BHS elite, no RV parks...just the woods if possible.
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post #9 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-20-2018, 10:53 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DENNY View Post
If you do a search on leaf spring squeak, I think you will find some info on replacing some plastic anti-squeak pads between the front springs.
DENNY
Like this?
http://www.frontiernet.net/~jcray/04...eafSprings.pdf
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2000 F250 XLT 4x4 SC 7.3 w/Auto Tranny w/ TC L/U Sw & shift kit, 3 autometer gages, Super Zoodad, PHP Hydra chip, 4" DP/Exhaust w/dual 3.5" outlets, 275/70/18 Kumho AT51s on 8.5" rims, 08 AlumDiffCvr, Bilsteins, 31 row trans cooler, WW, BPV delete, AIH delete, hutch, harpoon and billet FPR (70psi), trans cooler bypass delete by accident, rear air bags, Jimmijammers.
Jayco 26BHS elite, no RV parks...just the woods if possible.
See my album for a recent pic.
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post #10 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-20-2018, 01:04 PM
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That is it!! Pretty easy job, a lot simpler than replacing bushings.
DENNY

Early 1999 F350 AUTO 4x4 CC LB DRW 4.10 6.0 trans cooler, Front hitch, 2,000 hubs/ brakes, Bilstein shocks/steering stabilizer, Diesel site coolant filter 203 thermostat, EBV delete, new O-rings, new Oil cooler, RIFF RAFF FRX, Glow plug led, Pillar gauges, Lighted cupholder, Painless wiring fuze block, Harpoon/hutch mods, Removed axle blocks. Air bags, 5 wheel hitch, In bed 7 pin plug. Spare tire key delete. KLHANSEN on speed dial. 75,000 as of May 2019
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post #11 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-21-2018, 10:40 AM Thread Starter
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I need to look closer at my springs. I guess there are two styles of eye, mid-eye and regular, that may have different squeak pads.

2000 F250 XLT 4x4 SC 7.3 w/Auto Tranny w/ TC L/U Sw & shift kit, 3 autometer gages, Super Zoodad, PHP Hydra chip, 4" DP/Exhaust w/dual 3.5" outlets, 275/70/18 Kumho AT51s on 8.5" rims, 08 AlumDiffCvr, Bilsteins, 31 row trans cooler, WW, BPV delete, AIH delete, hutch, harpoon and billet FPR (70psi), trans cooler bypass delete by accident, rear air bags, Jimmijammers.
Jayco 26BHS elite, no RV parks...just the woods if possible.
See my album for a recent pic.
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post #12 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-21-2018, 05:26 PM
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I run poly on my 1/2-ton trucks, and it doesn't squeak or ride rough. But I only use black Energy Poly; the graphite in it self-lubricates, even if you don't apply silicone grease during installation (as recommended). None of the other colors or brands have graphite.

When the 2nd leaf spring is wrapped loosely around the main leaf's eye, that's called "military wrap" because the Army requires it so that the axle will stay in-place if the main leaf breaks.

There's nothing special about any style of spring pad - if it fits, it works. But there are various styles & materials. This is from the Ford service manual:


(phone app link)


But even with good liners, the ride will be NOTICEABLY smoother if you apply chassis grease between the leaves periodically.

The safest way to remove the bushings is with a ball joint press (if you have one big enough, like this Snap-On):


(phone app link)


Yes, you can leave the springs bolted to the axle (it'll save you replacing the U-bolts) if you don't mind working under the truck for a while. I'd rinse it thoroughly at least a day before, though.

This shows some of the torque specs:


(phone app link)


This might be more-dangerous than the torch method:


(phone app link)


But there are MANY potential sources for frame noise on these trucks; so many that Ford published an extensive TSB compiling most of them:


(phone app link)


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Last edited by Steve83; 01-21-2018 at 05:36 PM.
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post #13 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-21-2018, 11:14 PM Thread Starter
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Awesome wealth of info there Steve, thanks.
So I was talking to my dad, the least mechanical person to come to mind, and he said spray some lube on the springs to see if the noise goes away. I sprayed some into the pad area and lo and behold the squeaks are gone!
The pads are in place but must be worn thru I would guess. Now looking into new pads.
And yes the springs are the military wrap type.

2000 F250 XLT 4x4 SC 7.3 w/Auto Tranny w/ TC L/U Sw & shift kit, 3 autometer gages, Super Zoodad, PHP Hydra chip, 4" DP/Exhaust w/dual 3.5" outlets, 275/70/18 Kumho AT51s on 8.5" rims, 08 AlumDiffCvr, Bilsteins, 31 row trans cooler, WW, BPV delete, AIH delete, hutch, harpoon and billet FPR (70psi), trans cooler bypass delete by accident, rear air bags, Jimmijammers.
Jayco 26BHS elite, no RV parks...just the woods if possible.
See my album for a recent pic.
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post #14 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-22-2018, 09:57 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by narmalee View Post
milk jug work perfect for these, we've used em for years, HDPE is very resist to scuffing and has mild lubricative properties
This may be the way to go as I can't find the correct new replacements and/or new ones will cost too much...

2000 F250 XLT 4x4 SC 7.3 w/Auto Tranny w/ TC L/U Sw & shift kit, 3 autometer gages, Super Zoodad, PHP Hydra chip, 4" DP/Exhaust w/dual 3.5" outlets, 275/70/18 Kumho AT51s on 8.5" rims, 08 AlumDiffCvr, Bilsteins, 31 row trans cooler, WW, BPV delete, AIH delete, hutch, harpoon and billet FPR (70psi), trans cooler bypass delete by accident, rear air bags, Jimmijammers.
Jayco 26BHS elite, no RV parks...just the woods if possible.
See my album for a recent pic.
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post #15 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-31-2018, 06:56 PM
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Originally Posted by 69mach1377 View Post
Yeah, poly might be too much and it might squeak as well.
black poly is much quieter, it has graphite embedded in it, the red does not


FYI, I do NOT have any experience with poly in trucks, only in cars and it makes a huge diff in the NVH increase... personally don't care it doesn't really bother me since I love getting rattled by the v8 so what if the car rattles alittle more lol, I just mentioned if it was going to be a deal breaker for you, and actually thinking about it I doubt with 70 series tires, leaf springs and no sway bars you'd even notice it


well I see steve just posted the same lol


x2 on the snap-on BJP... it's a freakin hoss... it's probably my fave tool from snap-on, I don't own many of SO tools, because of cost, but 700.00 for this thing is just cheap... it's almost twice the size of the OTC and WAYYY beefier... I don't know how mechanics can use the OTC for superduty balljoints... the barely clear the snap-on one, and it makes BJ's a breeze

-'97 F250HD 4x4 7.3-
-'99 Cobra 426w-
-'76 LS408 Stingray-
-'93 302 Camaro on the juice-

Last edited by narmalee; 01-31-2018 at 07:04 PM.
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