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post #1 of 3 (permalink) Old 06-06-2016, 03:50 PM Thread Starter
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Lightbulb Track Bar Ball Joint Flip Tips

This is my first post, but I've been lurking here a while. I have an 06 F250, 6.0 that I recently lifted (about 6" with components, not a kit) and was experiencing death wobble and bump-steer issues. I had already added a dual stabilizer about a month ago. This helped, but didn't fix it. I replaced the Drag Link, which was making a clunk sound when I changed directions with steering wheel. This probably helped the wobble, but I still had to figure out how to fix the bump-steer. When I hit a bump anywhere over 50 MPH, the trucks front end would pull left and would require steering input to correct. This was remedied by flipping the ball joint at the bottom of the track bar.
The reason I wanted to post here is that I took a different approach to accomplishing this than I could find in my research as to whether it was possible. Posts say you can't do it, you need an adjustable track bar, you have to re-ream your stock bar to flip it, or you have to cut the lower end off the stock bar and weld/sleeve it. This is a broad summary to give an idea and may not be all inclusive.
I took the bar off, pressed the ball joint out, installed the new one facing up. Then I took the stock track bar, made a chalk mark on concrete to show the arc of the bend, heated the bend in a homemade forge ($15 to build), and reversed the bend by hammering. I then reheated it and buried it in the sand to let it cool slowly so it doesn't become brittle and let it sit all day.
To reinstall, the bar has to go in upside down due to the bevel in the opening, but now mine bends the proper way. It went right on, though I should tell you that I made it 1/4" shorter on purpose after doing some measuring of the original vs flipped ball locations (37.5 vs 37.25 inches). I am also using the relocating bracket that came with a 3" Rough Country lift, on which I flipped the cams so the hole for the upper end of the bar was toward the driver side of the vehicle; it has about 1/2" of adjustment.
I tried to break it. I went over rough areas quickly, did doughnuts on concrete, etc. I wanted it to fail if it's going to so I'm not stranded somewhere later. All is well, no perceptible fatigue/movement. Axle is centered, and life is good.
The truck now takes bumps much better than it did when stock height (I did shocks a month ago as well), and far better than it did when initially lifted. I would do it again for sure. The bumps now feel like up and down bumps, not left-right swerving maneuvers. Problem solved, and all it cost me was a $30 ball joint and $10 worth of coal.
Last thing, I read a few guys were able to press the ball joint out and reuse it. Don't plan on this. I had to cut the threads short to get my rented ball joint press to work, FYSA.

I hope this helps someone.
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post #2 of 3 (permalink) Old 12-27-2018, 07:24 AM
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Good morning, donyou have any pics of this work?
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post #3 of 3 (permalink) Old 12-27-2018, 11:46 AM Thread Starter
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ball joint flip

Originally Posted by Rafajr13 View Post
Good morning, donyou have any pics of this work?

Sadly, I didn't take pics. If you want to try it out and have specific questions/concerns I'll gladly try to answer.

A good plan executed today is better than a perfect plan executed at some indefinite point in the future.
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