Hard start on the mornings. - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com
E-Series Vans Technical discussion of topics related to vans powered by any of the Navistar engines. This covers a broad number of years, but there isn't enough demand to split it any further.

 
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-06-2016, 10:24 PM Thread Starter
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Hard start on the mornings.

Hi,
I have a little bit of problem to start my van(2003 e350 7.3) when the temperature outside(mornings only) is around 20c(68f) and the engine is cold.

I know it can happens when the temperature outside is cold etc but why when is warm?

It's cranking but I need like 5s-8s of crank to finally start.

Icp sensor,ipr sensor and cam sensor is new.(oem)

I change the glow plugs relay,battery's and alternator like half month ago because I had hard times start when outside was cold.

I never change the glow plugs.
GP can cause the issue or something else?

It's starting fine when the engine is warmer.

Any ideas?
Thanks.
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-07-2016, 01:24 PM
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Here is a good place to start.
http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f47/hard-no-start-check-here-first-75094/
I have used it in the past.

One other thing, are you waiting for the glow plugs to come on and then go off?
the wait to start light is a false flag... watch the battery needle to move up the second time and then try the start.

2000 E350 7.3PSD, Hellwig Stablizer bar, 1.5"spacers from old Correct track OR,140 Lightforce with covers, 5x7 LED's From Truck-lite, extras in the bumper. 4"Aero Turbin and 4" all the way back. 1705 program, Scangauge II,265/75/16E, My Photos
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Last edited by Alaskapsdvan; 06-08-2016 at 02:21 PM.
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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-07-2016, 06:22 PM
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Get a $5 volt guage and mount it near the key, it's amazing how long the voltage is under 12...
I turn the key when the voltage returns to a min of 12.2 and she fires up a bit easier.

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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-07-2016, 07:36 PM
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You need to test the glow plugs and relay. Even if the outside temperature is warmer you still have to deal with a cold chunk of cast iron on your first start of the day.

96 F250 PS XLT 4X4 long box, 5sp,4.10, manual hubs,pyro+boost guages, Dark Toumaline, add a leaf, Dale's TYMAR, and HX hose, downpipe, coolant filter, Luk clutch
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-07-2016, 09:09 PM Thread Starter
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Ok thanks for suggestions.

I will like to change the glow plugs but that must be nightmare and now I don't have the $ to let somebody else do that.

I wonder if ICP sensor can cause that too.
On my scangauge is showing below four hundred when cranking and I think must be under 400 to start?
The problem is I can't afford third icp sensor in one month....
380$ for one is too much.
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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-07-2016, 09:29 PM
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Do you have a block heater on your van?

If you do you can plug it in for about 3 hours before you need it and see if it starts easier.

If it starts easier with the block heater then I would suspect the relay or plugs. You can also try jumping the two large lugs on the relay for about 30 seconds and see if it starts easier. Just be aware that if you jump the lugs on the relay there are going to be sparks when you do it and you want to use a tool that is large enough like a large pair of pliers that won't heat up quickly as you hold onto them.

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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-08-2016, 02:25 PM
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Sorry about the link not showing up,
http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/...e-first-75094/
If you have a scangauge then set one of the points to volts and when you turn on the key trip it on and watch the volts.
Another thing with the scangauge at least for mine, normal it will not light up until the glow plugs are off and then it lights and I light up the van.
Now after I have been driving a good deal of the day I get in and start with no wait, but first time I wait for the scangauge to light up.

2000 E350 7.3PSD, Hellwig Stablizer bar, 1.5"spacers from old Correct track OR,140 Lightforce with covers, 5x7 LED's From Truck-lite, extras in the bumper. 4"Aero Turbin and 4" all the way back. 1705 program, Scangauge II,265/75/16E, My Photos
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-08-2016, 04:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alaskapsdvan View Post
Sorry about the link not showing up,
http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/...e-first-75094/
If you have a scangauge then set one of the points to volts and when you turn on the key trip it on and watch the volts.
Another thing with the scangauge at least for mine, normal it will not light up until the glow plugs are off and then it lights and I light up the van.
Now after I have been driving a good deal of the day I get in and start with no wait, but first time I wait for the scangauge to light up.
Hmm, that good to know about scangauge, I'll have to see if it does the same on mine. At what temperature does the GP come on. Someone stated 40degrees?

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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-08-2016, 06:30 PM Thread Starter
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Yes I have block heater but I need replace the wires and plug.(broken)

Interesting about the scangauge.
But sometimes my sgII start working only when cranking.(don't know why)

Thanks
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-08-2016, 08:10 PM
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Think that the plugs come on at 50 but wait for one of the Ford Doc types to check in.
Often around here in the summer over night temps are in the 40 so mostly mine turn on for up to 2 minutes, but most likely about 1 minute.
I would say play with the gauge and see what kind of time frames there are at start up.

2000 E350 7.3PSD, Hellwig Stablizer bar, 1.5"spacers from old Correct track OR,140 Lightforce with covers, 5x7 LED's From Truck-lite, extras in the bumper. 4"Aero Turbin and 4" all the way back. 1705 program, Scangauge II,265/75/16E, My Photos
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