“Open the door” is one of the problems.
I took all the fuses and relays out of the fusebox next to the brake booster. (still had over 4A of current from the batteries)
Today, I found that there is a second fuse box next to the brake pedal also needs to be accessed for testing.
No way to access it w/o opening the door.
Opening the door turns on the dome lights, etc. Game over.
There must be a switch or sensor that detects the open door.
i’ll try to locate and defeat switch so I can have the door open to access the smaller fuse box next to the brake pedal.
The manual says to drive the van for about 20 minutes before doing the test.
I made the temporary ground jumper today, so I can follow the procedure to insert the ammeter w/o opening the circuit.
Hope to do that tomorrow.
The manual also says that if excess current is still flowing after pulling all the fuses & relays, it is the “generator’
Top alternator was installed at 147,000, so it has 113,000 on it.
Voltage and charging current are fine, but there could still be an electrical issue in either alternator causing the current draw.
Might just disconnect the B+ on the back of each alternator and see if that effects current draw.
Also, looking at the schematic, seems like the starter solenoid relay always has B+ on it, might disconnect that too and see what happens.
I took the van off the road in 2014, did not need it until now.
Batteries seem to last about 2 to 3 years, the old batteries would not hold a
charge, so AutoZone gave me two new ones free, as the old batteries were within the adjustment period.
Here is the build sheet, nothing special about the van.
The only modifications not shown on the build sheet are:
Installed a HD4R100 transmission @ 203k miles, as the old transmission was kaput.
Installed a DAHL model 100 fuel filter/water separator in the fuel line.