The wiring is fairly simple. Please note, as I said in the beginning of this process I have yet to get my ABS light to turn off and my cruise control light to turn on. I'm pretty sure I can fix those 2 items, but as of this writing I have not had the time.
You can see in a previous post the 3 wiring plugins are the same in the F and the E series.
Member RPM1 has kindly posted pics in this link of the 3 plugins for both the F and the E's Note the E "A" has been drawn backwards compared to the F series drawing. You don't have to flip all the connections. Actually, the 16 pic has the least amount wires to move.
The 3 plugins are labeled as A,B & C on both drawings, sadly Ford changed the labeling between the E and the F series.
The F series plugin (12 wire) closest to the passenger side is the A plugin, the center (16 wire) is B and the driver side (12 wire) is C. These are the C250a or b or c drawings
The E series are the C220 drawings The C220A is the 16 wire plug which is the B plug in the F series. The C220B is the F series C 12 wire plug. The C220C van plug is the F series A 12 wire, clear as mud? I recommend you print out all 6 pages and study them, it will make sense and you can see they do have many wires in common that won't have to be moved.
[URL=http://s213.photobucket.com/user/garranch/media/2002%20Forrd%20diesel%20van/20150323_180131.jpg.html][/URL]
To unclip a wire from the plugin connector is easy. I found an eyeglass regular screwdriver works the best.
The metal ends of the wires have a clip on the bottom of them that spring into the plastic and hold the wires in place. if you poke the super small screwdriver under the metal end and compress the "trap door" metal so it will glide over the plastic lip it is designed to catch on you can easily pull on the wire and the wire and the metal end come out easily. Sadly I don't have a pic of this but it is not hard, it will take a few tries before you have the method down pat. I practiced on an end I was not going to reuse (seatbelt alarm) to be sure if I messed it up it wouldn't matter.
Lets start with the E 16 pin plug (c220a) converted to the c250b F series.
Remove the ground wire in #1 position (circuit #57) and abandon it, it seems to be redundant and move what is in the #2 pin (circuit 19) to the number one position.
After you have located your CTO wire (see a previous post above) extend a wire from it through the firewall long enough to reach the instrument cluster. I cut off the unused ground end and spliced to the extended CTO wire and clip it into space # 12. (circuit #648)
Move the wire from c220c #8 (circuit 683) to the #13 position, you are done with the 16 pin (c220a) plug
The 12 pin c220b converted to the c250c
Move van #11 (circuit #464) to position #1.
Move #8 (circuit #803) to position #11
Move #9 (circuit #12) to position #8
Move #12 van to the F c250a position #11 (circuit 643) (cut the end off a few inches back and splice in about 16" of new wire so it will reach.
Move van #7 (circuit #450 to F c250a #9.(extend the wire)
If you have a 4x4 van there is a wire off your transfer case that if you attach to pin #9 on this plug it will light up your 4x4 light when your in 4wd.
c220c van to c250a
Move #5 (circuit #904 to position #8
Move position #1(circuit #570 ground) to F c220c #12 (extend the wire)
Move #4 (circuit 977) to position #3 on the F c220c (need to extend the wire)
Thats is it for wiring, plug everything and start your van before you screw the cluster back in place, check to see if everything works.