Adding a Cold Air Intake - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com
6.7L Upgrades and Aftermarket - Engine Upgrading or adding OEM or aftermarket equipment to your 2011-Up Super Duty truck with 6.7L Power Stroke diesel engine. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 6.7L Power Stroke engine.

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post #1 of 20 (permalink) Old 05-04-2018, 02:40 PM Thread Starter
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Adding a Cold Air Intake

I've really not been a believer in these, but I've had quite a few diesel professionals advise me to get one. So, I'm going to pull the trigger and order one but am thoroughly lost on which one. I've looked at S&B, aFe, K&N, plus a few others, and all make the same claims and show graphs and charts. I'm leaning toward S&B or aFe. Can anyone shed some light on 'actual' fuel economy increases, power, lower gauge readings?

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post #2 of 20 (permalink) Old 05-04-2018, 05:24 PM
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Unless you are going to seriously increase your HP and the need for more air and fuel into the engine, the aftermarket intakes aren't required or needed.But, if you go with one, go with a paper filter setup as the K&N style allows too much dust and silica to enter the turbo and engine.
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post #3 of 20 (permalink) Old 05-05-2018, 06:07 AM
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I went with the S&B, all my research pointed to the filter being top notch and I like the way the airbox is made.
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post #4 of 20 (permalink) Old 05-05-2018, 06:27 AM Thread Starter
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Good morning, and thanks for the replies. I have already substantially improved hp, torque, and suspension to pull a heavy trailer. So, the next logical step would a CAI. Did you personally notice any difference after you added the S & B?

2012 F-350 SD Crew Cab, SRW, LWB, 4 X 4, FX4 Offroad, Bilsteins, AirLift Air Bags, BedLocker electric bed cover, Hellwig rear anti-sway bar, White Platinum w/Adobe, Navigation, Moon Roof, 5th Wheel Prep, Step Tail Gate, front 2 inch receiver, completely insulated, Pioneer speakers, King Ranch Package

'99 E-350 HiTop Companion Van Conversion, 7.3 SD Diesel, 5-tune DP Tuner, Triple AutoMeter C2 A-pillar gauge pod, dash mount AutoMeter C2 fuel pressure gauge, twin K&N's, 203* mod, Deraler tubed trannie pan, B&M trannie cooler, AirLift air bags, Bilsteins, 4" DiamondEye turbo back exhaust, Air Dog fuel filtration system, Hutch mod, header wrapped and high temperature painted Bellowed Up-Pipes.
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post #5 of 20 (permalink) Old 05-05-2018, 06:44 AM
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Maybe it's just in my head, but I thought it ran just a bit nicer. The stock filter was just a little dirty though. Hand calculating mileage at the pump it just barely came up, but I only drove it a week before I added a tuner. That's when I picked up 2 mpg.
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post #6 of 20 (permalink) Old 05-05-2018, 06:50 AM
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BTW, I chose the "dry" replaceable filter kit, same price as oiled.

A lot of guys recommended the NAPA 6637 or whatever do it yourself route. For function and neatness I just didn't like that.

Mine is a 7.3 so as always, YMMV.
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post #7 of 20 (permalink) Old 05-05-2018, 06:59 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks, buck.

2012 F-350 SD Crew Cab, SRW, LWB, 4 X 4, FX4 Offroad, Bilsteins, AirLift Air Bags, BedLocker electric bed cover, Hellwig rear anti-sway bar, White Platinum w/Adobe, Navigation, Moon Roof, 5th Wheel Prep, Step Tail Gate, front 2 inch receiver, completely insulated, Pioneer speakers, King Ranch Package

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post #8 of 20 (permalink) Old 05-05-2018, 10:50 AM
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One thing I see a lot is air being drawn in from the engine compartment. I would question is this really COLD AIR??? Warm air drawn from the engine compartment will be less dense and contain less O2 then cooler air drawn from outside the engine compartment. So if you want a true COLD AIR intake I would look for one that draws air from outside the engine compartment.
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post #9 of 20 (permalink) Old 05-06-2018, 07:50 AM
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My thoughts as well, the majority of air in the engine bay while rolling has come through the radiator, condenser, intercooler.
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post #10 of 20 (permalink) Old 05-13-2018, 01:21 AM
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I have a 2013 F350 deleted. I had to take my truck in and the guy recommended a cold air intake as well. I went with the S&B. i havent really noticed a difference but the reason I got it was the increase in air flow from the delete. From the research the S&B is the best for our trucks. Hope that helps.
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post #11 of 20 (permalink) Old 05-13-2018, 06:22 AM
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Quote:
One thing I see a lot is air being drawn in from the engine compartment. I would question is this really COLD AIR??? Warm air drawn from the engine compartment will be less dense and contain less O2 then cooler air drawn from outside the engine compartment. So if you want a true COLD AIR intake I would look for one that draws air from outside the engine compartment.
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My thoughts as well, the majority of air in the engine bay while rolling has come through the radiator, condenser, intercooler.
These thoughts are somewhat correct. While sitting still in traffic the above do apply. One will see a significant rise in IAT as provided by the MAF and CAC Temp sensor. Now what people don't realize is that once at sustained speeds over 20MPH continuous the airflow is flushing the engine bay. That air isn't heated above OAT. So the intake will not pull in air "hotter" than OAT.

For the record I have a NL Stage 2, MidWest piping kit, NL Intercooler, using SCT X4 tuning. I use a CTS2 for PIDs, EGT, and added a Edge Boost sensor with Edge IAT sensor in the post intercooler pipe from MidWest. I see anywhere from 15-25* over OAT when comparing OAT to MAF IAT to Edge IAT readings. Of course the post intercooler temps are subject to how much Boost PSI is being sustained. Long HWY speeds sustained with less than 5PSI Boost show the best results. Climbing up a hill with Boost PSI higher and sustained will cause the post-intercooler IAT to rise up and increase the delta between OAT and post intercooler IAT. Most of this data has been over the last few months. As summer comes on I'll be able to share what 90+*F temps do. As of yesterday I was seeing 90*+ OAT, running around town the post intercooler IAT was 115* +/- as I drove at speed and stop light traffic never exceeding 50+MPH.

Back in February when I got the sensors all done. Speed 60 MPH, OAT=57*F, IAT (MAF)=59*F, IAT (post inter-cooler)=78.9*F



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post #12 of 20 (permalink) Old 05-13-2018, 07:53 AM
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Keep us posted, I'm interested to see your results.
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post #13 of 20 (permalink) Old 05-13-2018, 09:36 AM
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I will do that for sure. I wish someone who was completely stock would join in with info from a CTS2. The PIDs are there to be used showing the referenced temps in the same locations per se. This way we can "see" what's happening in stock form.

I'm not sure if the stock EGR operation would show any effect as I believe the EGR flow is post inter-cooler IAT sensor location. I would like to be able to show a secondary positive reason for those willing to do an EGR delete.

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post #14 of 20 (permalink) Old 05-13-2018, 11:08 AM
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Technically the stock air filter housing already is a "cold air" set up as it does not draw air from the engine compartment for the main filter. A 2012 Super Duty for example draws air from behind the right headlamp and fender area. I personally don't see any need or for or real benefit from this modification on a turbocharged, charge air cooled engine. As mentioned however a heavily modified engine is a different story. There's a lot of people getting rich selling you people a lot of shiny add on's and crap you and your engine don't need or will never be able to utilize as advertised.

*Now if you REALLY want to increase airflow just get a 2" hole saw and drill two holes in the air filter lid but make sure to remove the lid from the filter housing first cause you don't want to get any debris in your engine. Right?

Believe it or not I have seen this.


*Do not do this as it will cause unfiltered air to enter your engine and cause wear and or damage.
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post #15 of 20 (permalink) Old 05-15-2018, 09:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Phillippeterson View Post
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Originally Posted by ford_doctor View Post
Technically the stock air filter housing already is a "cold air" set up as it does not draw air from the engine compartment for the main filter. A 2012 Super Duty for example draws air from behind the right headlamp and fender area. I personally don't see any need or for or real benefit from this modification on a turbocharged, charge air cooled engine. As mentioned however a heavily modified engine is a different story. There's a lot of people getting rich selling you people a lot of shiny add on's and crap you and your engine don't need or will never be able to utilize as advertised.

*Now if you REALLY want to increase airflow just get a 2" hole saw and drill two holes in the air filter lid but make sure to remove the lid from the filter housing first cause you don't want to get any debris in your engine. Right? <img src="http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/images/smilies/wink.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Wink" class="inlineimg" />

Believe it or not I have seen this.


*Do not do this as it will cause unfiltered air to enter your engine and cause wear and or damage.
Ford_Doctor is right. There's a sucker born every minute.

All the additives, stabilizers, cetane boosters, cold air intakes, etc are snake oil.

FLAME ON!
Is that what Ford_Doctor just said?


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