Coolant filtration - Page 2 - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com
6.7L Upgrades and Aftermarket - Engine Upgrading or adding OEM or aftermarket equipment to your 2011-Up Super Duty truck with 6.7L Power Stroke diesel engine. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 6.7L Power Stroke engine.

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post #16 of 31 (permalink) Old 09-14-2017, 10:11 PM
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ok...ok and holy moly!!! The entire coolant filtration panic epidemic started when casting sand was found to cause damage on the coolant side of certain engines; including gasoline engines where the manufacturing process left casting sand in the finished product.

The enterprise of selling filtration systems to remove residual sand from any engine that the owner could be convinced had this problem became a lucrative business. There is no reason for the purveyors of these devices to help us understand which specific engines were manufactured in such a way that they do not need coolant filtration.

You can do some 'inter-web' research for yourself, but i think that the engines most recognized for this affliction were the 2012 to 2017 Jeep Wrangler/Chrysler V6.

If you have 'improved' your Power Stroke by deleting, 'tuning', bypassing, 'improving' Ford engineering, you are shi*&%ng in church if you think coolant filtration is your problem. I assure you that lack of coolant filtration is not what will destroy your $13k engine.
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post #17 of 31 (permalink) Old 09-14-2017, 10:29 PM Thread Starter
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No one mentioned anything about having a problem with the engine. No one brought up deleting or modifying. Except for a couple of posts, it's been a good discussion on either 'needing' or 'not needing' additional coolant filtration.
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post #18 of 31 (permalink) Old 09-14-2017, 11:38 PM
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Thanks clev, and i hope that i have contributed to the discussion of 'needing or not needing' coolant filtration. The discussion relates to fears of problems with the engine if coolant filtration is not installed. Maybe some 7.3s had residual casting sand problems and maybe some 6.0s did, i think that the 6.4s and beyond are free of this problem.

NO you do not need coolant filtration on a 2012 truck.

Yes, somebody did bring up deleting or modifying, I DID! To surmise: Adding coolant filtration is not necessary, but is a no-harm modification.

And this entire discussion is based on wether or not you will have a problem with your engine if you do not install the Sinister Diesel Coolant Filtration Kit on you truck.
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post #19 of 31 (permalink) Old 09-15-2017, 04:25 AM
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If one was going to operate their truck commercial and put a million miles on it, then it might be beneficial. Ford maintenance says to change cool at 60,000 when operating under harsh conditions such as towing heavy,, extended idling and other parameters. The normal change is 105,000 miles. Many owners will never reach the 105,000 miles before they trade or sell their truck.

Also, on a complete flush/fill, you do drain the block to the extent possible with the plugs you remove from the block during the process.
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post #20 of 31 (permalink) Old 09-26-2017, 08:32 AM
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The stuff that was being called casting sand is silicate bits from silicate containing coolant degrading where the silicate precipitates and forms crystallized bits. 6.7 coolant is not a silicate component coolant. I see no trucks in my shop with coolant filters but I did see many with silicate bits. I never see impeller damage on water pumps I remove from those trucks with noticeable silicate bits. I have been flushing and replacing coolant with non silicate CAT ELC for 10+ years. Trucks with that coolant do not develop silicate dropout. 6.0 engine trucks with this done at oil cooler change have not had another oil cooler change needed due to EOT to ECT temp difference from silicate bits clogging oil cooler. In the 7 years 6.7 engines have been out I see no activity on oil coolers getting clogged so the non-silicate coolant used seems to not be causing issues. Radiators leaking- yes, some water pumps leaking- yes. Those failures do not seem to be coolant related and water pump failures have not been widespread even on 200K mile trucks without coolant ever changed.
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post #21 of 31 (permalink) Old 09-26-2017, 04:40 PM
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Concerning the OP and coolant filters I do think it is easy to be swayed by the marketing on this one but I do not even use one on my 7.3's. I have performed a couple of flushes and do not get noticeable particulate matter...maybe its all trapped in my radiator already.


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post #22 of 31 (permalink) Old 09-26-2017, 04:44 PM
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Originally Posted by jimmy View Post
The stuff that was being called casting sand is silicate bits from silicate containing coolant degrading where the silicate precipitates and forms crystallized bits. 6.7 coolant is not a silicate component coolant. I see no trucks in my shop with coolant filters but I did see many with silicate bits. I never see impeller damage on water pumps I remove from those trucks with noticeable silicate bits. I have been flushing and replacing coolant with non silicate CAT ELC for 10+ years. Trucks with that coolant do not develop silicate dropout. 6.0 engine trucks with this done at oil cooler change have not had another oil cooler change needed due to EOT to ECT temp difference from silicate bits clogging oil cooler. In the 7 years 6.7 engines have been out I see no activity on oil coolers getting clogged so the non-silicate coolant used seems to not be causing issues. Radiators leaking- yes, some water pumps leaking- yes. Those failures do not seem to be coolant related and water pump failures have not been widespread even on 200K mile trucks without coolant ever changed.
Interesting. Thanks for posting your experiences with the 6.7. I have seen silicate dropout as you describe.

But did that hold true for the 7.3? I have seen actual sand in mine and it is conventional thought it is a product of the casting process.


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post #23 of 31 (permalink) Old 10-07-2017, 04:50 PM
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My 6.0 had the ford gold Taken out it 20,000 I have actually went to a 6.4 oil cooler Mounted by the radiator And have a more expensive coolant filter That is a permanent one 100% of the coolant goes through it on its way to the oil cooler It can be taken apart and cleaned and put it right back, I do it every 5000 miles oil change same time, when I clean the filter the filter itself is very clean except the casing itself is magnetized so it traps the casting sand I also have other things to keep my oil and coolant temperature where needs to be interestingly on the way to the Black Hills going across South Dakota with five motorcycles attached to my truck I was watching the outside temperature and my oil temperature and Coolant temperature when it hit outside temperature 95 I looked down at my oil temperature for a split second it was at 197 averaging a solid 200 I believe solidly that my oil cooler Should be maintenanced just like everything else on my truck, of course there are all kinds of ways of doing that nothing wrong with sharing it with others😎
Can you explain the magnetic properties of the casting sand??
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post #24 of 31 (permalink) Old 06-04-2018, 12:36 PM
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I recall back when I had my 7.3 I installed a filter kit because at 80K the water pump failed and I found a lot of grit in the system. I also recall having to add an anti cavitation additive/supplement to the coolant and use test strips to verify content.

Is this no longer the case with the 6.7? The break down of coolant from cavitation was the main concern and use of a filter back then.

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post #25 of 31 (permalink) Old 06-04-2018, 01:55 PM
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I recall back when I had my 7.3 I installed a filter kit because at 80K the water pump failed and I found a lot of grit in the system. I also recall having to add an anti cavitation additive/supplement to the coolant and use test strips to verify content.

Is this no longer the case with the 6.7? The break down of coolant from cavitation was the main concern and use of a filter back then.

I ran my 96 7.3 for 208,000 miles and changed coolant once. never needed a coolant filter.

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post #26 of 31 (permalink) Old 06-04-2018, 02:34 PM
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I ran my 96 7.3 for 208,000 miles and changed coolant once. never needed a coolant filter.

I did and replaced the filter twice after they clogged with gunk. The gunk is what killed the original water pump too. It was like sand in there, whether it was casting sand, or deposits, I don't know, but once the third filter was on, never had an issue again. It was an early 99 7.3 with the Garret turbo, good running cackler. Somewhere on this site is my old thread about that install.

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post #27 of 31 (permalink) Old 06-04-2018, 03:44 PM
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It seems a description of coolant type, water type, change interval, if coolant types were switched or mixed, and flushing procedures might offer some insight.


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post #28 of 31 (permalink) Old 09-02-2018, 07:12 PM
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Good thread that I felt I learned something by reading.

My 7.3 went thru several water pumps. I put on an aftermarket coolant filter. The first change of the filter shocked me how heavy the filter had become. I assumed it trapped casting sand or whatever else may have been in the system. Each coolant filter change after the first seemed insignificant. What was interesting is I never had to change the water pump after installing the filter kit. I do not plan to install a coolant filter on my 6.7 as it has 74,000 miles and I am still on the original pump.

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post #29 of 31 (permalink) Old 09-02-2018, 09:22 PM
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Did you cut the filter open or identify what the debris was?


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post #30 of 31 (permalink) Old 09-03-2018, 12:45 AM
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ArcticDriver is on the right path. We need the people that have a coolant filter on the 6.7 too cut them open and see if they find anything. If they come back clean than you will not need one.
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