Those with Dual Alternators - Page 3 - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com
6.7L Upgrades and Aftermarket - Engine Upgrading or adding OEM or aftermarket equipment to your 2011-Up Super Duty truck with 6.7L Power Stroke diesel engine. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 6.7L Power Stroke engine.

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post #31 of 65 (permalink) Old 01-09-2013, 08:20 AM
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they must have changed it from the 6.0...

I was not aways that they went to a single belt now. I guess I learned something today :-)

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post #32 of 65 (permalink) Old 01-14-2013, 07:21 AM
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OOOOPS SORRY JUST REALIZED THAT YOU'RE FROM MARYLAND.NEVERMIND. HOW'S THE HUNTIN AROUND BALTIMORE , THAT'S RIGHT YOU GUYS DON'T KNOW WHAT THAT IS ANYMORE .

Easy W5DVC, I wasn't bashing you. I was simply stating that changing the serp belt on the 6.0 is a PITA (compared to a 7.3, and many other model vehicles).

The serp belt service interval for a 6.7 is "inspect at 90K miles" and "replace at 150K." After seeing belts on 6.0 trucks and 6.4 trucks with 100K miles that look basically unworn, it was surprising to me to hear of your changing them at 15K intervals. I would think that changing your belts at half of the "inspection" interval (45K miles) would more than double your safety factor.

By the way, before jumping to conclusion about where we hunt in MD you should try it. There are plenty of areas in Md (and the east coast in general) that are back in the sticks and are not serviced by your "recovery" companies.

Anyway, good to see that your are practicing intensive PM on your vehicles that many others do not.

2012 F-350 KR 6.7, CCSB 4x4, Carli 4.5" Pin Top 2.5, prog leaf packs, 1" blocks, long travel airbags, AirLift WirelessAir, 5gal OBA, Amp steps, B&W Hitch, BakFlip F1, Kenwood DNX-9990, JL 700/5, BA Comp, 2-PGold 10", Rigid Ind 20" light bar, 295/65-20 Toyo M/Ts on OEM wheels.

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post #33 of 65 (permalink) Old 01-15-2013, 09:31 AM
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Easy W5DVC, I wasn't bashing you. I was simply stating that changing the serp belt on the 6.0 is a PITA (compared to a 7.3, and many other model vehicles).

The serp belt service interval for a 6.7 is "inspect at 90K miles" and "replace at 150K." After seeing belts on 6.0 trucks and 6.4 trucks with 100K miles that look basically unworn, it was surprising to me to hear of your changing them at 15K intervals. I would think that changing your belts at half of the "inspection" interval (45K miles) would more than double your safety factor.

By the way, before jumping to conclusion about where we hunt in MD you should try it. There are plenty of areas in Md (and the east coast in general) that are back in the sticks and are not serviced by your "recovery" companies.

Anyway, good to see that your are practicing intensive PM on your vehicles that many others do not.
Well sorry about that . But it seems at times that the only discussion on here on the 4X4 aspect of our trucks has to do with problems with your snowplow package . My trucks are not TRAILER QUEENS & I don't get insecure when I drive more than 50 miles from the pavement . I don't relax until my cell phone shows it's out of the service area . Afterall I'm a HAM RADIO OPERATOR and my RADIO STATION TRAVELS WITH ME .W5DVC911

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post #34 of 65 (permalink) Old 02-24-2013, 05:27 PM
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Well sorry about that . But it seems at times that the only discussion on here on the 4X4 aspect of our trucks has to do with problems with your snowplow package . My trucks are not TRAILER QUEENS & I don't get insecure when I drive more than 50 miles from the pavement . I don't relax until my cell phone shows it's out of the service area . Afterall I'm a HAM RADIO OPERATOR and my RADIO STATION TRAVELS WITH ME .W5DVC911
Well I'm anxious . My New 2013 F-250 IS IN . In order to get the dual alternator set-up , I had to SPECIAL ORDER the truck . It's here now , I'll
pick it up from TOMBALL FORD ( TOMBALL TEXAS/HOUSTON ) this coming Tuesday morning . W5DVC

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post #35 of 65 (permalink) Old 03-27-2013, 01:51 AM
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I know this thread is a month old but I felt that I need to add my experience to the thread because I haven't heard anyone mention doing it the way I did it and it might help a future forum member in regards to considering all options when wanting more amps out of his alternator.

Instead of going with a dual alt configuration And after a lot of research I called the guys over at mechman alternators and bought there heavy duty 370 amp alternator. It was actually bench tested at 390 amps max all with just a simple swap out of my stock single alternator on my 6.7. Not saying its the best way to do but It but I'm getting more amperage than with guys with a dual alt set up. And if I ever wanted more I still have the option to add that second alt.

2011 F-350 Lariat 6.7 PSD CC SWB
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post #36 of 65 (permalink) Old 03-28-2013, 04:39 PM
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I know this thread is a month old but I felt that I need to add my experience to the thread because I haven't heard anyone mention doing it the way I did it and it might help a future forum member in regards to considering all options when wanting more amps out of his alternator.

Instead of going with a dual alt configuration And after a lot of research I called the guys over at mechman alternators and bought there heavy duty 370 amp alternator. It was actually bench tested at 390 amps max all with just a simple swap out of my stock single alternator on my 6.7. Not saying its the best way to do but It but I'm getting more amperage than with guys with a dual alt set up. And if I ever wanted more I still have the option to add that second alt.
We usually order dual alternator on our trucks because the dual's have ~250A of output at idle which in our experience is where the aftermarket high output alternators seem to struggle.

Looking at the Mechman site the 370A Elite alternator starts at $699 compared to the $380 MSRP (so ~$315 actual cost) for the dual alternator option from Ford which is factory installed and is covered by the factory warranty which for us makes the aftermarket option not a viable one.
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post #37 of 65 (permalink) Old 03-28-2013, 05:54 PM
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We usually order dual alternator on our trucks because the dual's have ~250A of output at idle which in our experience is where the aftermarket high output alternators seem to struggle.

Looking at the Mechman site the 370A Elite alternator starts at $699 compared to the $380 MSRP (so ~$315 actual cost) for the dual alternator option from Ford which is factory installed and is covered by the factory warranty which for us makes the aftermarket option not a viable one.
That's exactly why I said it may not be the best option for some. Definitely would not make much sense for someone ordering the truck with the duals ahead of time. But the op obviously did not order duals from the factory so I simply gave him and others alike another option. Thanks for sharing that it wouldn't work for your situation, great, I'm glad there are other options out there and people who read this that are in the same situation as you will benefit from it. As for the output at idle, well with the combination of mechmans overdrive pulley and fords big crank my alt was bench tested at 274 amps at idle and I need all the output I can get.

2011 F-350 Lariat 6.7 PSD CC SWB
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post #38 of 65 (permalink) Old 03-29-2013, 02:06 PM
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Dual alternators is actually one option that you can add to your truck after the fact without too many complications or great expense (unlike rapid heat).

~$500-600 in parts and this bulletin and you are ready to go:
https://www.fleet.ford.com/truckbbas...ml/Q-160R1.pdf
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post #39 of 65 (permalink) Old 02-16-2019, 06:52 PM
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Yes, I'm regenerating a 5 year old thread. With my new 5th wheel and six 6-volt batteries, I'm finding that the truck does a poor job of charging the RV batteries. Before my next trip in the spring, I'm going to replace all the incandescent lights on the truck with LED's and am doing research on either a dual alternator setup or one high amperage alternator. Does a dual setup cut into fuel economy? I'd appreciate any input that anyone could provide. One thing that concerns me with the duals is 'dealer programming'. With the work that I've done, I don't want a dealer programming anything on my truck. Is programming a must? I'd like to just install the extra one for charging trailer batteries. Run a 8 gauge wire from the output, through a circuit breaker, to the distribution panel for my batteries. Again, any input would be appreciated.

2012 F-350 SD Crew Cab, SRW, LWB, 4 X 4, FX4 Offroad, Bilsteins and Bilstein Steering Stableizer, AirLift Air Bags with onboard compressor, BedLocker electric bed cover, Hellwig 1 1/4 inch rear anti-sway bar, 2017 G37 Turbo, ATS Stage I towing transmission kit, White Platinum w/Adobe, Navigation, Moon Roof, 5th Wheel Prep, Step Tail Gate, front 2 inch receiver, completely insulated, Pioneer speakers, King Ranch Package

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post #40 of 65 (permalink) Old 02-16-2019, 07:43 PM
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you can buy the parts from Ford to convert single to dual alternators. No, it does not cut into mpg on my truck.

the dealer programming is minimal...just so the PCM can activate the second alternator as needed....

https://madocumentupload.marketingas...a2a6d&v5=False

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post #41 of 65 (permalink) Old 02-16-2019, 08:56 PM
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Thank you, Larrgh. On the bulletin, it mentions a relocation of the water pump. Does that apply to this dual installation?

2012 F-350 SD Crew Cab, SRW, LWB, 4 X 4, FX4 Offroad, Bilsteins and Bilstein Steering Stableizer, AirLift Air Bags with onboard compressor, BedLocker electric bed cover, Hellwig 1 1/4 inch rear anti-sway bar, 2017 G37 Turbo, ATS Stage I towing transmission kit, White Platinum w/Adobe, Navigation, Moon Roof, 5th Wheel Prep, Step Tail Gate, front 2 inch receiver, completely insulated, Pioneer speakers, King Ranch Package

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You will have to replace the secondary water pump with the one in the article.

Larry

2015 F350 Ultra Lariat 6.7L CCLB DRW 3.73 Limited Slip, Green Gem Metallic w/ Caribou accent, Camper Package, Titan 65gal tank, Rapid Heat, Block Heater, Upfitter Switches, Dual Alternators, Camper Package, Cable Lock, Husky Floor Liners, Spray in Bedliner, 5th Wheel Prep, 25K 5th Wheel Hitch, Ford Goose Neck Hitch.

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post #43 of 65 (permalink) Old 02-17-2019, 08:04 AM
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Thank you, Larrgh; you always have answers for me. I'm rethinking the duals and am researching a high amp replacement for the original. It's almost 6 years old with 55k miles on it. A 370 amp alternator from js-alternators is listed on sale at $399, mechman has the same one on sale for $599. I'm thinking that may be the best plan and then not worry about new installs, moving water pumps, and programming the PCM.

2012 F-350 SD Crew Cab, SRW, LWB, 4 X 4, FX4 Offroad, Bilsteins and Bilstein Steering Stableizer, AirLift Air Bags with onboard compressor, BedLocker electric bed cover, Hellwig 1 1/4 inch rear anti-sway bar, 2017 G37 Turbo, ATS Stage I towing transmission kit, White Platinum w/Adobe, Navigation, Moon Roof, 5th Wheel Prep, Step Tail Gate, front 2 inch receiver, completely insulated, Pioneer speakers, King Ranch Package

'99 E-350 HiTop Companion Van Conversion, 7.3 SD Diesel, 5-tune DP Tuner, Triple AutoMeter C2 A-pillar gauge pod, dash mount AutoMeter C2 fuel pressure gauge, twin K&N's, 203* mod, Deraler tubed trannie pan, B&M trannie cooler, AirLift air bags, Bilsteins, 4" DiamondEye turbo back exhaust, Air Dog fuel filtration system, Hutch mod, header wrapped and high temperature painted Bellowed Up-Pipes.
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post #44 of 65 (permalink) Old 02-17-2019, 09:12 AM
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The better question is why are your batteries discharging while you drive? If you have a DC switchable fridge the dual alternators won't help much. Everything else should be off. As an aside running propane for the fridge while driving is a bad idea. A) the obvious danger in an accident. B) the flame will heat stress the vent stack when you are out of level.
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post #45 of 65 (permalink) Old 02-17-2019, 11:34 AM
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The better question is why are your batteries discharging while you drive? If you have a DC switchable fridge the dual alternators won't help much. Everything else should be off. As an aside running propane for the fridge while driving is a bad idea. A) the obvious danger in an accident. B) the flame will heat stress the vent stack when you are out of level.
I didn't post that they were discharging while I drive; I posted that the truck does a poor job of charging while I drive. There are lots of reasons why someone pulls out with low charged batteries in their RV's. It would be nice to have a little more charge going into them than currently being provided. The OEM alternator is rated at 200 amps, and if I'm understanding correctly, the truck and it's systems uses most of that. Add the trailer system, and there's not much left.

2012 F-350 SD Crew Cab, SRW, LWB, 4 X 4, FX4 Offroad, Bilsteins and Bilstein Steering Stableizer, AirLift Air Bags with onboard compressor, BedLocker electric bed cover, Hellwig 1 1/4 inch rear anti-sway bar, 2017 G37 Turbo, ATS Stage I towing transmission kit, White Platinum w/Adobe, Navigation, Moon Roof, 5th Wheel Prep, Step Tail Gate, front 2 inch receiver, completely insulated, Pioneer speakers, King Ranch Package

'99 E-350 HiTop Companion Van Conversion, 7.3 SD Diesel, 5-tune DP Tuner, Triple AutoMeter C2 A-pillar gauge pod, dash mount AutoMeter C2 fuel pressure gauge, twin K&N's, 203* mod, Deraler tubed trannie pan, B&M trannie cooler, AirLift air bags, Bilsteins, 4" DiamondEye turbo back exhaust, Air Dog fuel filtration system, Hutch mod, header wrapped and high temperature painted Bellowed Up-Pipes.
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