'2011 F350 low fuel pressure - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com
'11-16 General Questions General questions related to 2011-Up Super Duty trucks. If it doesn't fit the other categories, post it here. Gas engine discussion that pertains to all models is allowed. Specific gas engine questions should use the Gas Engines forum.

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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 11-18-2018, 11:19 AM Thread Starter
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'2011 F350 low fuel pressure

Hello, out of no where on Friday driving to get fuel and on the dash computer it pops up ď low fuel pressure ď. Turn truck offĒ, fuel up and itís there. After a few minutes it disappears. Then Friday night I start truck at work, come out and see it on. I scrape windows get in and itís gone. Saturday morning i start truck to go hunting, itís on. By time I loaded up it was gone. So it doesnít appear at all again until I start driving home it pops up. Doesnít go away, I get to sons hockey game and watch. Then we leave and itís gone( not in system warnings either). Thatís where I stand. Truck seams to be running fine, I do regular maintenance, run Fords centane boost every tank. Sorry for long winded story, try giving all details. Help please
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 11-18-2018, 11:40 AM
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2011's had some fuel pressure sensor issues and some leaked fuel. Even though you are on top of maintenance is might be a good idea to remove the primary filter and see if there is anything going on there. If you have a scan tool or other way of monitoring the low pressure fuel switch you can do some quick checks to see it it biased or erratic. A fuel pressure gauge will ultimately be the most helpful tool however most people won't have the proper adapter.


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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 11-18-2018, 04:08 PM Thread Starter
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Ok. Thanks. I have none of the tools nor do I feel comfortable pulling stuff apart. Worried Iíll screw stuff up worse. Up in the air what to do but I appreciate yours and others wisdom.
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 11-19-2018, 04:49 AM
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Who does your maintenance? Do you have a favorite Ford dealer? Try one of those!


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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 11-19-2018, 11:16 AM Thread Starter
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I usually take it into a Accesories shop. Think itís ok to drive till it gets in? Thanks again
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 11-19-2018, 03:23 PM Thread Starter
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I got code reader on and reads code P008A
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 11-19-2018, 03:57 PM
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As Keith mentioned above, have you serviced the fuel filters. The fuel filter on the frame might be the problem. The fuel filter kit comes with 2 filters, one on the engine and one on the frame.

If you decide to change the filter on the frame, unscrew the canister approx 3 turns and then open the yellow drain valve. This will break the siphoning effect. The new rubber o-ring needs to be lubed with fresh oil. Can be any automotive oil, diesel or gasoline engine oil. Screw the cup back on until the stops meets. Then cycle the key 6 times. Let the key stay on 10-15 seconds for each cycle.

There are probably videos on YouTube on how to change thee filters for the 6.7.

Larry

2015 F350 Ultra Lariat 6.7L CCLB DRW 3.73 Limited Slip, Green Gem Metallic w/ Caribou accent, Camper Package, Titan 65gal tank, Rapid Heat, Block Heater, Upfitter Switches, Dual Alternators, Camper Package, Cable Lock, Husky Floor Liners, Spray in Bedliner, 5th Wheel Prep, 25K 5th Wheel Hitch, Ford Goose Neck Hitch.

Traded 2011 F350 XLT CCLB SRW 6.2L gasser 6,000 miles for 2015

Sold 1996 F350 XLT CCLB DRW 7.3L 208,000 miles



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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 11-19-2018, 03:57 PM
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As Keith mentioned above, have you serviced the fuel filters. The fuel filter on the frame might be the problem. The fuel filter kit comes with 2 filters, one on the engine and one on the frame.

If you decide to change the filter on the frame, unscrew the canister approx 3 turns and then open the yellow drain valve. This will break the siphoning effect. The new rubber o-ring needs to be lubed with fresh oil. Can be any automotive oil, diesel or gasoline engine oil. Screw the cup back on until the stops meets. Then cycle the key 6 times. Let the key stay on 10-15 seconds for each cycle.

There are probably videos on YouTube on how to change the filters for the 6.7.

Larry

2015 F350 Ultra Lariat 6.7L CCLB DRW 3.73 Limited Slip, Green Gem Metallic w/ Caribou accent, Camper Package, Titan 65gal tank, Rapid Heat, Block Heater, Upfitter Switches, Dual Alternators, Camper Package, Cable Lock, Husky Floor Liners, Spray in Bedliner, 5th Wheel Prep, 25K 5th Wheel Hitch, Ford Goose Neck Hitch.

Traded 2011 F350 XLT CCLB SRW 6.2L gasser 6,000 miles for 2015

Sold 1996 F350 XLT CCLB DRW 7.3L 208,000 miles



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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 11-19-2018, 06:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rosh View Post
I usually take it into a Accesories shop. Think it’s ok to drive till it gets in? Thanks again

In general an "accessory shop" is probably not the best place to have your modern diesel diagnosed and repaired, there are probably exceptions. As far as driving it, low fuel supply pressure is not going to cause harm like a 6.0L PSD would be susceptible to. With the 6.7L, if the fuel pressure truly is low it will exhibit performance conditions and eventually set more codes... speaking of which:




Quote:
Originally Posted by Rosh View Post
I got code reader on and reads code P008A

P008A means that low fuel supply pressure has been detected. No need to delve too deeply here as this has only a few simple causes such as a faulty switch as I mentioned, restricted filters, a failing or failed fuel supply pump or a restriction before the pump itself. In theory, air in the system can cause lower fuel pressure readings. If you have air or a restriction (in the filter or the pick up) the pump will make considerable noise, whining or growling.



Ultimately my advice it to take the truck to your favorite Ford dealer or independent shop that is familiar with, and has the correct diagnostic equipment not to mention access to good service publications to diagnose Power Stroke engines and have them properly diagnose and repair it. I keep reading about how people think dealers or mechanics are too expensive but have no problem throwing hundreds of dollars worth of parts at the problem and still not fox their trucks. It is insane! It's one thing if you are somewhat knowledgeable and capable of loading the parts cannon yourself...


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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 11-19-2018, 09:38 PM Thread Starter
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Well thatís awesome. I appreciate all your knowledge. The shop is good they do it all, performance shop and all. Not a parts sorta thing. I will post the results after I get it in Probably Wednesday. Thanks again
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post #11 of 12 (permalink) Old 11-30-2018, 11:37 PM Thread Starter
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Sorry late reply, got truck fixed then left on hunting trip. Anyways I had lower pump replaced and low pressure sensor/switch. None of the readings were low, so most likely the sensor but the pump was making lots of noise so decided to change. All good now. Thanks for all input I appreciate it.
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post #12 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-09-2019, 10:53 PM Thread Starter
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Seems like since I had this done, my truck sounds different when idleing( exhaust sound). Not sure how to explain it, but itís deleted and straight pipe. Old sound was like it was pushing lots of air ( jet sound?) now itís seems not a predominant. Hopefully this makes sense to someone. Thanks Rob
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