'2013 F350 broken lug nuts - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com
'11-16 General Questions General questions related to 2011-Up Super Duty trucks. If it doesn't fit the other categories, post it here. Gas engine discussion that pertains to all models is allowed. Specific gas engine questions should use the Gas Engines forum.

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post #1 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-01-2018, 09:05 PM Thread Starter
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Angry '2013 F350 broken lug nuts

2013 f350 dually platinum with last tire rotation 20,000 miles ago. Driving on interstate at 70 mph when 5 lug bolts sheared off (from front tire) leaving 3 intact. Pulled over and remaining lug nuts were finger loose. Towed to local Ford dealer and they said most of the lug nuts on other tires were loose and not to factory specs. My Ford dealer where I get truck serviced says they can't be responsible since it has been 20,000 miles later. I say they did not torque nuts to specs. Service manager says wheel would have come off sooner if not properly torqued. He states I should get tires rotated every 5,000 miles to prevent this. So I say "so after 5000 miles they can just come off" and he walks away. I just want $1400 credit for future service and of course they declined. Even told them I will be ordering new limited f450 from them but did not matter. From my research the nuts should never loosen if properly torqued. The dealer has serviced the vehicle since purchase.
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post #2 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-01-2018, 09:13 PM
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Hate to say it but if they came loose after 20,000 miles then I would agree with the dealer.

Perhaps you have someone that doesn't like you or something.

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post #3 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-01-2018, 09:30 PM Thread Starter
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After leaving the dealership after the last rotation the hub cap came off as soon as I got on the interstate. Maybe had somebody new doing the rotation? No way anyone has messed with my lug nuts, I have cameras up.
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post #4 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-01-2018, 10:24 PM
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I know that most manufactures recommend that you recheck the torque of the lug nuts around 500 miles after the tire has been off of the vehicle.

96 F250 PS XLT 4X4 long box, 5sp,4.10, manual hubs,pyro+boost guages, Dark Toumaline, add a leaf, Dale's TYMAR, and HX hose, downpipe, coolant filter, Luk clutch
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post #5 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-01-2018, 10:33 PM
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20,000 miles since it was last serviced by a shop gets that shop off the hook IMO.

I would look at this as a win-win.

One win is you and your passengers were unhurt.
Second win is you are now reminded how important it is to adhere to a maintenance schedule & safety inspection.


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post #6 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-02-2018, 03:09 AM
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I would say a properly torqued lug nut should be good to go until the tire wears out. But after 20,000 miles dealer would be off the hook. I have never heard of rotating tires to prevent lug nut loosing.
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post #7 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-02-2018, 04:50 AM
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Looking at the attached photo in the original post, it appears atleast some of those lugnuts had been missing for some time.


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2002 F-250 4x4 CC SB 7.3 PSD w/4R100. 182,000 miles.
NOS Black CPS. ScanGauge-II, AIC, Bilstein 5100, Stancor GPR, Marinco Mod, B&W Turnover Ball, Michelin Defender LTX


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2002 F-250 4x4 SC LB 7.3 PSD w/ZF-6. 177,000 miles.
NOS Black CPS. ScanGauge-II. Bilstein 5100. Noco Mod. Michelin Defender LTX 285/75/16.

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2000 F-250 4x4 SC SB 7.3 PSD w/4R100. 164,000 miles.
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post #8 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-02-2018, 07:00 AM
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Appears that the lug nuts at 11 o'clock, 12 o'clock and 5 o'clock were loose for a period of time. These position appear to be dirty with brake and/or road dust/grime between the lug nut and the wheel.

The lug nuts at positions 1 o'clock and 6 o'clock were tight at the time they broke. No brake and/or road dust/grime between the lug nut and the wheel for these lug nut positions. There fore leaves the conclusion they were at least tight and maybe or maybe not to torque specs.

Does leave to question as what the torque status of the remain lug nuts where when checked.

This is based on the photo and not being able to inspect the wheel close up see the pattern the lug nuts wore into the wheel prior to breaking.

Larry

2015 F350 Ultra Lariat 6.7L CCLB DRW 3.73 Limited Slip, Green Gem Metallic w/ Caribou accent, Camper Package, Titan 65gal tank, Rapid Heat, Block Heater, Upfitter Switches, Dual Alternators, Camper Package, Cable Lock, Husky Floor Liners, Spray in Bedliner, 5th Wheel Prep, 25K 5th Wheel Hitch, Ford Goose Neck Hitch.

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post #9 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-02-2018, 10:06 AM
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I know there are recommendations but the reality is this: 1. It costs a fortune to rotate dually tires and if alignment is correct it has almost zero payback.
2. these are floating captive flat washer nuts that do not come loose if they were ever tightened properly. If someone loosened them then the that is another matter. I service vehicles and never re-torque lug nuts unless I replaced lug studs or installed a new hub. I do that after I go test drive vehicle.
3. After 20K miles there is little you can do. That is long time and there are far too many possibilities for the shop to take responsibility.

If you use that dealer for service I would not pay or leave until they torque lug nuts with you as witness.
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post #10 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-02-2018, 06:20 PM
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It costs a fortune to rotate dually tires and if alignment is correct it has almost zero payback.
My current truck is my first dually. I thought that when I bought it that I would just rotate the tires from side to side & made up my mind that I would probably replace the front tires before replacing the rear tires. Eventually,I realized that I wouldn’t wear out the rear tires before they got too old to be safe (Discount Tire recommends replacing tires when they are 6 years old even if the tread isn’t worn out) so I just rotated the front tires from side to side & left the rear tires alone. I am replacing all 6 tires next week & will likely rotate like this in the future.
‘Not saying that everyone should do this, but it works for me & it’s just what I do because I don’t put that many miles on my truck.

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post #11 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-02-2018, 10:21 PM
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The tire rotation being a problem on the DRW's is one reason I took the aluminum wheels off my 2015 Lariat. I put steel wheels on it so I can do a proper rotation that work great for me on my old 1996. I averaged 60K on the tires doing my cross and front to rear rotations.

I was surprised as the weight of the aluminum wheels that come on the truck. I do not remember the weight of the aluminum wheels but do know that the steel wheel is only 15# per wheel heavier for a total of 60# for the steels over the aluminum's.

Larry

2015 F350 Ultra Lariat 6.7L CCLB DRW 3.73 Limited Slip, Green Gem Metallic w/ Caribou accent, Camper Package, Titan 65gal tank, Rapid Heat, Block Heater, Upfitter Switches, Dual Alternators, Camper Package, Cable Lock, Husky Floor Liners, Spray in Bedliner, 5th Wheel Prep, 25K 5th Wheel Hitch, Ford Goose Neck Hitch.

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post #12 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-02-2018, 10:59 PM
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For some reason dualies always seem to be harder on front tires especially with the lack of rotation that is all too common. Even crossing just the front tires is helpful. As long as the rear tires are properly and evenly inflated they usually wear very well.

Concerning the original topic... I hate to disagree with the brain-trust here developing a consensus but there are only two things that cause wheel studs to break. Loose lug nuts and over torquing. When the majority of the studs are broken it points to looseness every time. Especially when some of the remaining lug nuts are loose. While my tendency to agree with the sentiment that the dealership last touched the wheels on this truck was 20,000 miles ago might make it seem that it couldn't be the fault of the technician or a weak impact gun I MUST concede that is only because human nature makes us defensive. You know that silly pride thing? Yeah. I got that t-shirt and it does not fit well or feel good wearing it but none the less it is in my closet. So it took a while for enough lugs to become loose enough to allow the wheel to start moving around and stress the studs. Pffft! Sorry peeps. It happens. And tell me, who the hell EVER rechecks their wheel nuts AND with a torque wrench? C'mon and chime in to tell us alllllll about it.


The only problem for the OP is that 20k is a long time and holding anyone responsible for such a failure will be difficult because this is a pretty rare scenario albeit ALWAYS POSSIBLE.
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post #13 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-03-2018, 09:04 AM
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And tell me, who the hell EVER rechecks their wheel nuts AND with a torque wrench? C'mon and chime in to tell us alllllll about it.
I never have, but I have a friend who does! He seems to be very OCD in many things.
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post #14 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-03-2018, 11:34 AM
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After one problem at a shop I have never trusted their employees to do the right thing. I might not check them right on the spot but I will check them after a few bumps and the ride home.

When I was employed and the company used to use a quickie joint to change the oil in my truck I always checked my oil before I left their lot. It just seamed like the right thing to do.

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post #15 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-03-2018, 02:02 PM
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I always use a torque wrench on my lugs, and recently when I had to get a flat fixed, I drove home from the shop and re-torqued that wheel. Don't always do it, but frequently. I definitely do NOT want to lose a wheel.

Have to agree that 20k miles is way to long to try to fix blame.

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