Blower motor works Little air coming out - Page 2 - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com
'11-16 General Questions General questions related to 2011-Up Super Duty trucks. If it doesn't fit the other categories, post it here. Gas engine discussion that pertains to all models is allowed. Specific gas engine questions should use the Gas Engines forum.

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post #16 of 28 (permalink) Old 12-13-2015, 09:34 PM
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I have done 3 of these jobs. You may be able to avoid removing the seat but for the 4 bolts required it makes the job much easier but I see no possible way to avoid taking the steering column loose and again for the couple of bolts required it is much easier to with it removed especially if you work alone. With only one set of hands it is much easier to with removal of both.
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post #17 of 28 (permalink) Old 12-14-2015, 11:16 AM
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It is much easier to roll access the heater hoses, refrigerant lines and heater case bolts with the battery removed the box included a computer module and the windshield washer tank all one assembly. These trucks are difficult to work on as it is. A few more minutes to remove obstacles is the way to go. My local dealer quotes me 3000 for the job. That may be high but it is a tough job to tackle on your own.
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post #18 of 28 (permalink) Old 12-14-2015, 11:50 AM
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I am not going to get into a pissing contest with you. It is easier and quicker to perform the WSM procedure and leave the dash assembled (steering column attached) and just flip it onto the seats. If you have a reason for doing it by removing things that are not required to be removed then more power to ya but I don't think its sage advice. Maybe that is why it takes you 14 hours to do a 4.5 hour job?
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post #19 of 28 (permalink) Old 12-14-2015, 07:19 PM Thread Starter
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Ok well I removed blower Motor and send my camera in the hole the evap coils clogged so I then cut hole on the glove box side between the heater coils and evap nice and clean shot air and water and then gunk the other side more water and shop vac with small hose replace blower works great down side crack blower fins will order new blower i hope aftermarket blower moter housing is smaller to make install easier
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post #20 of 28 (permalink) Old 12-14-2015, 08:27 PM Thread Starter
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Is there a trick to get the blower motor in a 2011 f250
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post #21 of 28 (permalink) Old 12-14-2015, 10:03 PM
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The truck was owned by selected energy services well drilling company or something out of Texas very dusty a lot if sand mud undercarriage I'm thinking clog a/c evaporator core...
That's right in my backyard! Ok, so let me get this straight... clogged evap core replacement on a 2011 will look something like this...



No thank you!

Check out this thread:
http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/...18/index6.html

Last edited by Leebetter; 12-14-2015 at 10:08 PM.
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post #22 of 28 (permalink) Old 12-15-2015, 09:14 PM Thread Starter
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It works excellent now the trick is to remove the fuse panel and the blower motor three screw and the shroud two screws a piece of cake. My first attempt I didn't remove the shroud and cracked the blower mower cage. I ended up cutting a hole in the box flushing it with water and air and shop vac to suck up excess water and remove the dirt from evap with a small hose though the blower motor hole. Sealed up the access hole installed new blower motor cause I damage old one and the total job cost me 164 dollars .. To clean a clogged evaporator originally truck was from Texas dusty working condition now in New York... These truck have no cabin air filter if you work or drive in dusty condition i recommend adding one..
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post #23 of 28 (permalink) Old 12-19-2015, 07:33 AM
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I am just looking and reading about the absolute butchery of some of these trucks. The angst sometimes displayed when it comes to having the vehicle properly repaired (especially by a dealership service department) is inexplicable to me when an alternate repair decision is at best the worst alternative... and some of you have the testicular fortitude to continually insult dealer technicians? PSHAW!

I realize that this can be an expensive repair but it also escapes me that in a public forum frequented by a seemingly educated, informed group of people can't come to some basic realizations. The repair estimates quoted for this or similar repairs is unrealistic and excessively high in my opinion. Don't you folks question the estimates presented to you and have them broken down and explained? Do repair facilities not use labor time guides? Do any of you at least consider getting at least one other estimate if not two? And nobody else here asks these questions... amazing!
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post #24 of 28 (permalink) Old 12-20-2015, 08:32 AM Thread Starter
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I have two dealers in my area both wanted 399 for factory remote starter plug and plug and 1 400 to install and program cut keys. The other said it nothing to install just charge to cut and program keys.I purchased the same kit from another deal ford dealer for 199 shipped and it took me 5 minutes to install drive to the honest ford dealership to have it programmed and keys cut for 145.. One dealer wanted close to 2500 to 3000 to remove evaporator to clean/replace you honestly expect someone to pay that much for repair that ford built in to these truck by not having a cabin air filter... Every car I own has a cabin air filter non are driven off road dusty roads etc. but not a work truck a super duty truck made for off road work dusty conditions ...you need to complain to ford when you as a tech see a bad design.. Anyway Im happy 3000 dollars saved I got to know some of my trucks inner working and added a filter under my cowl right before blower motor...save the dealer for items I can not do.
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post #25 of 28 (permalink) Old 12-20-2015, 01:34 PM
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I had indicated the first one took 14 hours. the second took about 4. Not everyone has access to dealership info and literature or the tens of thousands of dollars of special tools that it seems you do. Not everyone has access to an honest dealership that will not overcharge you. Not everyone can leave their truck at a dealer for a week to get it repaired only to find that they did not fix it anyway. Many of the posts on here are after they have been to the dealer and left with the same problem as when they went there. I was under the impression these forums were to help truck owners survive and do what they need to to afford to keep the $50 to $60,000 dollar trucks they drive. I do not intend to offend you. Have I miss understood the purpose of this forum?
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post #26 of 28 (permalink) Old 12-20-2015, 04:27 PM Thread Starter
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I agree with you not everyone has the dealer how to do it literature .. I rely on forums YouTube a lot before I tackle something I'm very happy with my method on this repair I own my truck and now it back to work in 20 degree weather With heat.. If I had to spend 3grand on a repair I would just trade it and use the 3000 as a down payment
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post #27 of 28 (permalink) Old 12-20-2015, 11:08 PM
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I am just looking and reading about the absolute butchery of some of these trucks. The angst sometimes displayed when it comes to having the vehicle properly repaired (especially by a dealership service department) is inexplicable to me when an alternate repair decision is at best the worst alternative... and some of you have the testicular fortitude to continually insult dealer technicians? PSHAW!
This made me chuckle. True enough that I've seen it happen more than twice, and won't be the last time, either. Most of us I gather have the proper education to at least fix any given problem enough (i.e. dead batteries) to get it to the dealership for a more thorough check-up. I have the dealership invoices to prove it! Haha. Some repair items are better left to qualified technicians, because honestly, I wouldn't want to have to pay for what I broke on top of the existing condition. Makes no sense. I know I don't have 4 hrs to tear down a super duty dash. Why would anyone? Maybe for the copper... :-/
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post #28 of 28 (permalink) Old 12-20-2015, 11:38 PM
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I agree with you not everyone has the dealer how to do it literature .. I rely on forums YouTube a lot before I tackle something I'm very happy with my method on this repair I own my truck and now it back to work in 20 degree weather With heat.. If I had to spend 3grand on a repair I would just trade it and use the 3000 as a down payment
I agree with this as well. I always usually find the problem on my own, whether by talking to others or watching YouTube videos. I've realized over the course of owning my diesel, ways to save money by doing simple repairs that could've saved me hundreds (ie. Vacuum Pump), but since I do have a dealership near, I'd rather take it for authorized repairs. However, the dealership has been known to break stuff as well. It's a toss up. If I were in the middle of nowhere and needed my truck, some would say if you want it done right, do it yourself. If I break it, it's a learning experience.
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