Excessive Battery Terminal Corrosion? - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com
'11-16 General Questions General questions related to 2011-Up Super Duty trucks. If it doesn't fit the other categories, post it here. Gas engine discussion that pertains to all models is allowed. Specific gas engine questions should use the Gas Engines forum.

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post #1 of 19 (permalink) Old 04-08-2017, 06:00 PM Thread Starter
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Excessive Battery Terminal Corrosion?

My 2015 seems to have an abnormal amount of corrosion despite me cleaning the terminals, hold down clamp (I have bought two new ones as spares because the paint is now gone from the factory ones), and battery top with baking soda during the last three oil changes. Are you gals/guys seeing the same and if so, what are you doing to limit/prevent it? I had not coated the terminals previously, but I added a light coat of lithium grease this time.

Thoughts welcome.


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post #2 of 19 (permalink) Old 04-08-2017, 07:23 PM
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Grease or Dielectric grease works for me.
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post #3 of 19 (permalink) Old 04-08-2017, 07:28 PM
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Two thoughts come to mind. If both batteries are corroded, check the alternator for over charging. If only one battery is corroded, then check the voltage to see if one cell is shorted.
If you only have 5 good cells rather than 6 you can boil you battery. I do grease my battery terminals to prevent corrosion. At 57,000 miles on my truck the original terminals are still clean.
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post #4 of 19 (permalink) Old 04-11-2017, 11:03 AM
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I am getting the exact same thing.
More on one battery than the other, but both have it.
My drivers side is worse.

I will try the grease idea. That is a good idea.

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post #5 of 19 (permalink) Old 04-11-2017, 11:38 AM
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Check the seal between the battery post and the plastic case. I've seen a couple where that seal was compromised and weeping acid. That makes the terminal corrode at an alarming rate.


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post #6 of 19 (permalink) Old 04-12-2017, 11:57 AM
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You want to stay on the cleaning of the battery acid. My wife's Ford Explorer had this. Even though she does all her oil changes at Quick Lane, Ford never caught it as it is under the plastic cover on the post. It corroded half of cable connector. Even though you can take the connector apart, Ford only sells the whole assembly. A year later, again after an oil change, it corroded up again and the connector was shot. Fortunately she had a Ford Extended Warranty and they cleaned the battery and replaced whole cable assembly. I then bought a new battery and used dielectric grease and no problems. I have been told sometimes a small crack at the post will causes acid to gas out and cause this. Either way, since new battery, no problems. Some people also suggest to get this fabric rings that go over battery post and then terminal goes on. This worked at stopping corrosion on our Ford tractor.
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post #7 of 19 (permalink) Old 04-14-2017, 07:11 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by RT View Post
Check the seal between the battery post and the plastic case. I've seen a couple where that seal was compromised and weeping acid. That makes the terminal corrode at an alarming rate.
I had a check engine light come on and while at the dealer, I explained what I was experiencing. In the end, both batteries and all of the hold down hardware had to be replaced; they were both leaking around the posts. I thought this was pretty bad for batteries which were only 16 months old. Happy though the warranty covered everything--the mass air flow sensor had also failed (check engine light issue). All is good now.


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Currently running Chevron Delo 400 LE 15W-40 (CJ-4) oil and CQ Blue 84151 (Clarcor) oil filter

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- Husky Rear Wheelwell Liners
- Bull Ring retractable tie downs
- Leer 700 Bed Cap
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post #8 of 19 (permalink) Old 04-14-2017, 07:13 PM
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Glad you got it fixed. Something weird is going on at the battery plant. I hadn't seen a terminal ruptured like that in 50 years and now I've seen a half dozen in one year.


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post #9 of 19 (permalink) Old 04-18-2017, 04:05 PM
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Both batteries on mine were corroded. Both posts were leaking and had to replace them

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post #10 of 19 (permalink) Old 04-25-2017, 03:42 PM
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My passenger side battery started corroding. I cleaned everything but it immediately came back. I took it to the dealer and they replaced both batteries under warranty, also had to replace the battery tray on the passenger side.

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post #11 of 19 (permalink) Old 06-04-2019, 09:35 AM
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I know it's an old post, but hopefully someone can help me find a part.

I have a 2013 PSD and have been dealing with excessive corrosion for the last few years. I would check the terminals regularly, but on one inspection I found the passenger side terminal completely corroded even though I had the fabric discs and I had sprayed the terminal. The corrosion was so bad that the terminal needed to be replaced. Of course Ford said I had to buy a new cable assembly and it would cost $2600 to replace. I found a work around but now I having issues with the truck not wanting to start and throwing all kind of fault codes and the wrench symbol. Had the batteries checked by NTB and Ford, both said they were good. Ford says its the work around terminal and I needed to replace it and see if it solves the issue. So, I'm looking for just the terminal end or terminal some of you may have used. As you know, you have very little slack to play with. Any comments or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Another question, can you crimp an extension onto the cable to have more slack? What gauge is the wire?
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post #12 of 19 (permalink) Old 06-04-2019, 11:49 AM
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SSM 47886 - 2012-2016 F-Super Duty - Battery Cable Clamp Corrosion Repair
Some 2012-2016 F-Super Duty vehicles may exhibit a battery cable clamp corrosion concern at the positive battery terminal. It is not necessary to replace the complete battery cable harness CC3Z-14300-A for this concern. Positive battery cable clamp BT4Z-14450-AA is available and can be used to replace just the corroded terminal. Do not cut or shorten the battery cable, but instead remove the corroded battery cable clamp and clean the cable end as necessary. Bend the new battery cable clamp as needed and crimp it to the existing battery cable. Make sure to use heat shrink tubing over the battery cable to battery cable clamp connection. Obtain the heat shrink tube locally.

APPLICABLE VEHICLES
2012 - 2016 TRUCK: FA P473N SUPER DUTY
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post #13 of 19 (permalink) Old 06-04-2019, 06:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2015_PSD View Post
My 2015 seems to have an abnormal amount of corrosion despite me cleaning the terminals, hold down clamp (I have bought two new ones as spares because the paint is now gone from the factory ones), and battery top with baking soda during the last three oil changes. Are you gals/guys seeing the same and if so, what are you doing to limit/prevent it? I had not coated the terminals previously, but I added a light coat of lithium grease this time.

Thoughts welcome.
Your batteries are leaking and no amount of Di-electric grease will stop that. I just replaced my batteries because one was leaking and the other one was 3 years old. The 3 year old one was leaking after one year so that is why I didnt change both at the same time. Cost me $260 for new batteries. kept the 3 year old battery encase I need a spare in one of my cars.

If your battery is leaking acid is running down the side and rotting out the battery box. It may be getting into the heat wrap if you have that on your batteries like the newer trucks.I didn't read the whole thread until now but my information is for the general people here. If you got a leak it needs to be fixed.

I have bought 3 brand new Fords and all those batteries were junk. They all leaked within the first year. If I ever buy a new car again that will be part of the deal swap out the batteries for new ones

Last edited by Stroking it; 06-04-2019 at 06:33 PM.
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post #14 of 19 (permalink) Old 06-05-2019, 11:06 AM
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Thank you ford_doctor. I have ordered the BT4Z-14450-AA clamp. May have to buy a crimper for that size if wire and clamp when I pick up the heat shrink. Whats the best way to clean the cable end?

Hopefully this solves the starting issue. I have found that if I shutdown my truck while the AC and radio are on. It will not start back up. I'll remove the key and then try again, and so far it starts. But if I turn off the AC and radio prior to shutting down the truck, it starts right back up? This seems a little crazy to me.
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post #15 of 19 (permalink) Old 06-06-2019, 10:36 AM
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Backing soda is the best way to naturalize acid. back in the day we poured coke or pepsi on the terminals because of the soda content.
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