Ideas about additives - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com
'11-16 General Questions General questions related to 2011-Up Super Duty trucks. If it doesn't fit the other categories, post it here. Gas engine discussion that pertains to all models is allowed. Specific gas engine questions should use the Gas Engines forum.

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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-04-2019, 06:47 AM Thread Starter
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Ideas about additives

My 2011 F350 6.7 superduty dually rolling over 100,000 mile mark and just wondering any thoughts about additives to engine oil..etc
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-04-2019, 08:33 AM
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I wouldn't add anything to the oil Most of that stuff is snake oil anyway. I only use synthetic oil. I have had excellent results with that. Sure it's more expensive but for me it's worth the extra cost. I only use Motor craft oil even thought you could find cheaper but that's just me. I have 5 fords and I run synthetic in them all.
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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-04-2019, 02:52 PM
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Modern engine oils are the cats meow right out of the bottle with excellent additive packages already mixed in.

Diesel fuel additive is a different story. It may not be needed in all circumstances but it can help in many.


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2002 F-250 4x4 SC LB 7.3 PSD w/ZF-6. 177,000 miles.
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2000 F-250 4x4 SC SB 7.3 PSD w/4R100. 164,000 miles.
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-05-2019, 12:21 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the input. Even tho I work on diesels this is MY first diesel . I also use Motorcraft products on my truck. I've found in all my other trucks (gas) that by changing the oil every 3k my engines lasted forever with no problems. I put 200,000 miles on a 94 Ford with a 351 Cleveland with no drips and it ran perfect . I also do little or no major modifications to the engines. Thanks again. I'm glad I joined this group. I've learned alot.
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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-05-2019, 08:19 AM
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Changing the oil in your diesel every 3,000 miles will get expensive fast. I just wait till the truck tells me to change my oil. In my cars that don't tell me I go around 5,000 miles. if I have to add oil than I just go ahead and change it.
Only additive I use in my fuel is cetane. I get it at my ford dealer. That is the only place I get it from.
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-05-2019, 08:22 AM
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Wal Mart oil is good oil. Like Motorcraft oil, some one makes it and bottles it for both.
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2015 F350 Ultra Lariat 6.7L CCLB DRW 3.73 Limited Slip, Green Gem Metallic w/ Caribou accent, Camper Package, Titan 65gal tank, Rapid Heat, Block Heater, Upfitter Switches, Dual Alternators, Camper Package, Cable Lock, Husky Floor Liners, Spray in Bedliner, 5th Wheel Prep, 25K 5th Wheel Hitch, Ford Goose Neck Hitch.

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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-15-2019, 08:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by larrgh View Post
Wal Mart oil is good oil. Like Motorcraft oil, some one makes it and bottles it for both.
This is true. I retired from the ExxonMobil refinery in Beaumont, Texas &, while I never worked at the Blending & Packaging Plant, I have seen it & knew guys that worked there. They put the same oil in different bottles or jugs for different customers. As long as the oil meets specs (& it does) it’s fine.
The same thing is true for gasoline & diesel fuel. They all meet the minimum octane & cetane requirements & NO MORE. These companies do not believe in “product giveaway”. Often these companies will buy fuels from each other to save on shipping & other expenses. For example, Chevron will by fuel from Valero because the Valero refinery & distribution center may be closer to several of their Chevron stations. They all do this & there is no problem because the fuel will be EXACTLY the same at the time of delivery. Obviously, there may be concerns about age of the fuel or water in the tanks, but these problems occur on a case by case basis at various individual stations & have nothing to do with brands.
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SOLD: 2005 F-350 Lariat, 6.0 PSD, Torqueshift auto trans, crew cab, SRW, short box, FX4, ESOF, limited slip dif., tow command, upfitter switches, 6 CD changer, Lariat Lux. package, camper package, engine block heater, triple A-pillar gauge set (Autometer) with pyrometer, trans temp & voltmeter, MBRP 4" cat back exhaust w/5" dual wall chrome tip, dark shadow gray/ med. flint interior.
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-15-2019, 11:38 PM
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@Petko.

Trying to figure out how to get further details without sounding argumentative.

Since motor oil is a combination of base stock and additives, is it possible that even though the Base stock was reported to you as the same in all brands that your co-workers forgot to consider that the additives were of different quality/quantity depending on what that particular customer wanted? Or did they say the oils were identical even with the additives?

Your Beaumont XOM refinery produces some very high quality oil under the Mobil label and a history of VOAs has shown many times it is superior to many other products so there seems to be a disconnect somewhere.

Here is a quick example of two well known 15w40 HDEOs: Delvac 1300 vs Rotella T-4. The two oils performed quite differently under identical test conditions.

https://rotella.shell.com/en_us/medi...on-ssht-lr.pdf


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2002 F-250 4x4 CC SB 7.3 PSD w/4R100. 182,000 miles.
NOS Black CPS. ScanGauge-II, AIC, Bilstein 5100, Stancor GPR, Marinco Mod, B&W Turnover Ball, Michelin Defender LTX


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2002 F-250 4x4 SC LB 7.3 PSD w/ZF-6. 177,000 miles.
NOS Black CPS. ScanGauge-II. Bilstein 5100. Noco Mod. Michelin Defender LTX 285/75/16.

SOLD:
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2000 F-250 4x4 SC SB 7.3 PSD w/4R100. 164,000 miles.
NOS Black CPS. Rebuilt Fuel bowl w/gold spring, 6.0 Cooler, Walker BTM, Stancor GPR, Michelin LTX M&S2.

Last edited by ArcticDriver; 03-17-2019 at 07:36 AM.
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-20-2019, 04:11 AM
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@Petko,

This has sure been something to follow in the news:

https://www.chron.com/news/houston-t...m_medium=email


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2002 F-250 4x4 CC SB 7.3 PSD w/4R100. 182,000 miles.
NOS Black CPS. ScanGauge-II, AIC, Bilstein 5100, Stancor GPR, Marinco Mod, B&W Turnover Ball, Michelin Defender LTX


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
2002 F-250 4x4 SC LB 7.3 PSD w/ZF-6. 177,000 miles.
NOS Black CPS. ScanGauge-II. Bilstein 5100. Noco Mod. Michelin Defender LTX 285/75/16.

SOLD:
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
2000 F-250 4x4 SC SB 7.3 PSD w/4R100. 164,000 miles.
NOS Black CPS. Rebuilt Fuel bowl w/gold spring, 6.0 Cooler, Walker BTM, Stancor GPR, Michelin LTX M&S2.
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-26-2019, 06:29 AM
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[QUOTE=ArcticDriver;4656860]@Petko.

Trying to figure out how to get further details without sounding argumentative.

Since motor oil is a combination of base stock and additives, is it possible that even though the Base stock was reported to you as the same in all brands that your co-workers forgot to consider that the additives were of different quality/quantity depending on what that particular customer wanted?

I understand your question as legitimate & I don’t find it argumentative. Of course, additive packages will differ from one brand of oil to another & this is taken care of at the Blending & Packaging Plant (B&P). However, there are many brands that will share identical additives. Essentially, this is the same oil in different bottles or jugs. The key to engine oil is to check the “starburst” & follow the manufacturer’s recommendation.
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2013 F-350 Lariat 6.7 L PSD Crew Cab Dually, FX4, white platinum metalic tri-coat with black interior, N-Fab step bars, factory spray-in bedliner and 5th wheel hitch, trailer tow package, integrated brake controller, upfitter switches, Sync with My Ford Touch, memory group, remote start, reverse sensing with rear view camera, nav, satillite radio, Weather Tech floor mats, limited slip diff, moon roof, climate controlled seats, engine block heater and tailgate step.

2014 Lifestyle (formerly Carriage) 5th wheel 38' long with 3 slides & all the goodies.

SOLD: 2005 F-350 Lariat, 6.0 PSD, Torqueshift auto trans, crew cab, SRW, short box, FX4, ESOF, limited slip dif., tow command, upfitter switches, 6 CD changer, Lariat Lux. package, camper package, engine block heater, triple A-pillar gauge set (Autometer) with pyrometer, trans temp & voltmeter, MBRP 4" cat back exhaust w/5" dual wall chrome tip, dark shadow gray/ med. flint interior.
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post #11 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-26-2019, 09:46 AM
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Why not take the guesswork out of oil and just get Motorcraft oil? All this research must hurt your heads. I use what came in the truck. Trying to save a couple pennies when you spent extra money to get the diesel makes no sense to me. Ford wouldn't put crap oil in our trucks because they would be on the hook for the repairs. This is the reason Ford has a spec for our oil. Sure you may be able to find Ford spec oil cheaper but is it necessary?
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post #12 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-27-2019, 12:36 AM
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Your arguments make a lot of sense. Still, I doubt that you will convince everyone on here. It seems that there are a lot of different opinions on what oil is best. It's not all about trying to save a few pennies. Many people have been using their favorite oil for many years with good results; so why should they change now?

2001 F350 XLT 4X4 crew cab, dual rear wheels, long bed, black, 7.3l turbo diesel, automatic transmission, 4.10, shift on the fly, running boards, sliding rear window, 38 gal fuel tank, Odyssey extreme 65-PC1750T batteries, Michelin LTX-MS2 rear tires, Sumitomo Encounter front tires, Shell Rotella Ultra elc, 11,500 gvwr, 20,000 gcwr, 7500 gvw, completely stock, 114,000 miles when purchased, now has 250,000 miles, repairs so far: two starters, batteries, cps, brakes, tires, alternator, ball joints, locking hub, wheel hub, AC compressor, serpentine belt, power steering pump, driver's side window, ignition switch, o-ring, Spectra premium radiator, water pump, fan clutch, fan blades, thermostat, thermostat housing, tensioner. Stolen twice so far, but recovered both times with major damage.

2005 Nomad Rampage toyhauler made by Skyline. 11,500lb gvwr.
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