Question about the '110 AC plugs - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com
'11-16 General Questions General questions related to 2011-Up Super Duty trucks. If it doesn't fit the other categories, post it here. Gas engine discussion that pertains to all models is allowed. Specific gas engine questions should use the Gas Engines forum.

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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 08-08-2018, 09:45 AM Thread Starter
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Question about the '110 AC plugs

I've got two 110 volt AC plugs in my new-to-me 2016 F-350. I brought out my RV tester that I use when plugging our trailer in at an RV park. With the engine running (of course) it shows 95 volts, no matter the RPM. Is this normal or is something amiss? Seems to me a 110 plug should be showing a bit more than 95 volts.
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 08-08-2018, 01:51 PM
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Is this both plugs or one plug? They use separate inverters. How old are your batteries?

here are the schematics for the two inverters.
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Larry

2015 F350 Ultra Lariat 6.7L CCLB DRW 3.73 Limited Slip, Green Gem Metallic w/ Caribou accent, Camper Package, Titan 65gal tank, Rapid Heat, Block Heater, Upfitter Switches, Dual Alternators, Camper Package, Cable Lock, Husky Floor Liners, Spray in Bedliner, 5th Wheel Prep, 25K 5th Wheel Hitch, Ford Goose Neck Hitch.

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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 08-08-2018, 04:36 PM
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A square wave inverter won't necessarily read "properly" on a VOM. I expect you don't have a problem.

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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 08-08-2018, 08:46 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks guys, for the responses.

The batteries are as old as the truck, which is a 2016 with under 9k miles. I'm going out on a limb assuming (GASP!) the batteries are fine. I haven't subjected them to a stress test.

Thanks for the schematics "larrgh" but that kind of stuff is above my pay grade. I do know you need a "true RMS" multimeter to read inverted voltage - and I don't have one.

Another site said the inverters in these trucks don't really spool up until you plug something in, and then they crank out whatever power you need (within the scope of the inverter, of course). So tomorrow morning when it's cooler than the 97į it is NOW, I'll take Wifey's hair dryer out and test it out. I was originally going to plug something into the front plug and stick my multimeter into the rear plug to get a reading. But now that you mention that there are two separate inverters (front and rear) I guess that plan is waste.

Plus, after all this, I'm fairly certain I won't even need this feature - but it's the principle of the issue.
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 08-09-2018, 05:20 AM
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Check the wattage on the hair dryer as the plugs are only rated at 140 watts. I believe a hair dryer would be like 1500 watts on high.
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2015 F350 Ultra Lariat 6.7L CCLB DRW 3.73 Limited Slip, Green Gem Metallic w/ Caribou accent, Camper Package, Titan 65gal tank, Rapid Heat, Block Heater, Upfitter Switches, Dual Alternators, Camper Package, Cable Lock, Husky Floor Liners, Spray in Bedliner, 5th Wheel Prep, 25K 5th Wheel Hitch, Ford Goose Neck Hitch.

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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 08-09-2018, 08:27 AM Thread Starter
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Check the wattage on the hair dryer as the plugs are only rated at 140 watts. I believe a hair dryer would be like 1500 watts on high.

Good point. I'm just trying to find something, anything, that I can try plugging in. I suppose an iPad or a laptop might work for the test.



Thanks "larrgh".
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 08-09-2018, 11:20 AM
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Laptop charger will do fine....I use a 110vac charger in my front port....I have used the rear port to charge laptop I take when traveling...it uses a 135watt output HP charger and charges just fine.

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2015 F350 Ultra Lariat 6.7L CCLB DRW 3.73 Limited Slip, Green Gem Metallic w/ Caribou accent, Camper Package, Titan 65gal tank, Rapid Heat, Block Heater, Upfitter Switches, Dual Alternators, Camper Package, Cable Lock, Husky Floor Liners, Spray in Bedliner, 5th Wheel Prep, 25K 5th Wheel Hitch, Ford Goose Neck Hitch.

Traded 2011 F350 XLT CCLB SRW 6.2L gasser 6,000 miles for 2015

Sold 1996 F350 XLT CCLB DRW 7.3L 208,000 miles



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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 08-10-2018, 09:05 AM Thread Starter
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I took my iPad out and plugged it in. I used a multi-plug strip so I could insert my multimeter into the same inverter as the iPad. Prior to plugging the iPad charger in, the meter showed the 95 volts I originally mentioned. Once the charger was plugged in the meter showed 104 volts. Then, when I unplugged the charger the voltage went to 109. Can't explain that one but I don't care. It seems to be working fine - as advertised.
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 08-12-2018, 06:43 PM
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You all are using the cheaper multimeters that donít read true RMS voltage. Get a true RMS meter (or borrow one) and the voltage will read correctly.
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 08-12-2018, 10:01 PM
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Not everyone needs an RMS voltmeter. More often than not, the el cheapo from Harbor Freight works just fine.

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2015 F350 Ultra Lariat 6.7L CCLB DRW 3.73 Limited Slip, Green Gem Metallic w/ Caribou accent, Camper Package, Titan 65gal tank, Rapid Heat, Block Heater, Upfitter Switches, Dual Alternators, Camper Package, Cable Lock, Husky Floor Liners, Spray in Bedliner, 5th Wheel Prep, 25K 5th Wheel Hitch, Ford Goose Neck Hitch.

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post #11 of 13 (permalink) Old 08-17-2018, 09:50 AM Thread Starter
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Not everyone needs an RMS voltmeter. More often than not, the el cheapo from Harbor Freight works just fine.

As I mentioned, I don't have a true RMS voltmeter, but I do have two voltmeters that are NOT from Harbor Freight - ha. Just sayin' . . .
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post #12 of 13 (permalink) Old 08-17-2018, 12:34 PM
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As I mentioned, I don't have a true RMS voltmeter, but I do have two voltmeters that are NOT from Harbor Freight - ha. Just sayin' . . .

Well, I have two VOM also....neither is from Harbor Freight, Craftsman and a Radio Shack that is at least 20 years old....but they both give the same readings as the Harbor Freight VOM that my Dad has.
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Larry

2015 F350 Ultra Lariat 6.7L CCLB DRW 3.73 Limited Slip, Green Gem Metallic w/ Caribou accent, Camper Package, Titan 65gal tank, Rapid Heat, Block Heater, Upfitter Switches, Dual Alternators, Camper Package, Cable Lock, Husky Floor Liners, Spray in Bedliner, 5th Wheel Prep, 25K 5th Wheel Hitch, Ford Goose Neck Hitch.

Traded 2011 F350 XLT CCLB SRW 6.2L gasser 6,000 miles for 2015

Sold 1996 F350 XLT CCLB DRW 7.3L 208,000 miles



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post #13 of 13 (permalink) Old 08-26-2018, 03:33 PM
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Just my two cents!

Most likely the Digital VOM youíre using is reading the RMS (Root Mean Square) value. Most Digital meters take a sample voltage of which they think is a pure 60 cycle sin wave which cheap inverters donít put out. If you read with a digital meter your home 120 volts (RMS) receptacle, it is actually 169.73 volts peak. So if youíre reading 170 volts then your meter isnít a true RMS voltmeter.

The more you load up an inverter, the more the output SIN wave changes. There is a regulating control circuit that tries to keep the output voltage and waveform as designed. What you might be seeing when you get different voltages is a sample taken at a different time in the SIN wave. The only way to be sure is to use an oscilloscope that will allow you to see the wave form and measure the voltage at the same point in time.

This is why an old analog meter (with a needle) will sometimes read different than a Digital meter. I watch the folks that first work for me come to the wrong diagnose because they havenít used an analog meter before, and not taught how a digital meter works. It happen because instead of keeping the old meters in the classroom, they moved them to the museum. One of my digital meters cost over $800 (Canadian eh!!) and there is a difference from my Harbour Freight meter.

Sorry about the length.

Fact Ė Your meter is reading RMS
Fact Ė Your Ipadís power supply converts the Ford inverterís AC output to DC which your Ipad runs on, so most likely the Ipad power supply has better regulating then the Ford inverter.
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