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post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old 10-18-2011, 05:32 PM Thread Starter
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throttle cable replacement

I need to replace the throttle cable that broke at the pedal. I looked under the hood and at first glance it looks like a lot of stuff in the way at the firewall. Any suggestions are appreciated.
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post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old 10-18-2011, 06:44 PM
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First of all, I would only use the OEM part, # E9TZ-9A758-U. I've tried cables from just about everyone else and they're all short, so that your foot hits the firewall well before you run out of throttle travel.

If you're doing it in a truck it's actually very easy, especially if you have 2-3 feet of 1/4" drive extensions. First, remove the air cleaner. Next, pop the linkage off at the accelerator pedal and injector pump. don't forget to remove it from the bracket near the pump. Then, using a 1/4" drive 8mm socket remove the 2 screws holding the cable bracket to the firewall. Fish the cable out from whatever it's routed through, and install the new cable's ball socket on the pump lever stud. Click the cable into the bracket near the pump, rounded side downward, then run the other end the same way as the old cable, fish it through the opening in the firewall, and install the bushing & cable into the accelerator pedal. Now install the bracket on the firewall using the 2 screws from the old cable, and you're all set. Check for full travel and binding, and replace the air cleaner if everything checks out.

Phil

Check my lists of common part numbers in my photos! Updated often!

1991 F350 Lariat XLT, 7.3l, 5-speed, crew cab, SRW, 3.55, 2WD.

1990 Jeep Wrangler Sahara, in the process of a major overhaul/upgrade. OM617 on the horizon! Front & rear Dana 44s from a Wagoneer till I get some 1-ton axles built & narrowed, and eventually a front shackle reversal. Diesel YJ, bay-BEE, and not a cookie-cutter 4BT conversion!
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post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old 10-18-2011, 06:56 PM
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First of all, I would only use the OEM part, # E9TZ-9A758-U. I've tried cables from just about everyone else and they're all short, so that your foot hits the firewall well before you run out of throttle travel.

If you're doing it in a truck it's actually very easy, especially if you have 2-3 feet of 1/4" drive extensions. First, remove the air cleaner. Next, pop the linkage off at the accelerator pedal and injector pump. don't forget to remove it from the bracket near the pump. Then, using a 1/4" drive 8mm socket remove the 2 screws holding the cable bracket to the firewall. Fish the cable out from whatever it's routed through, and install the new cable's ball socket on the pump lever stud. Click the cable into the bracket near the pump, rounded side downward, then run the other end the same way as the old cable, fish it through the opening in the firewall, and install the bushing & cable into the accelerator pedal. Now install the bracket on the firewall using the 2 screws from the old cable, and you're all set. Check for full travel and binding, and replace the air cleaner if everything checks out.


Nice write up!!!

1994, F-350, 7.3 IDI Factory Turbo, 67K miles (8-2012), super cab, Dually, long box, 155WB, 4.10 rear, E4OD Tranny #2 replaced @ 33K with small cooler(New torque converter in June of 09, K&N filter, ride rite boots, Pyro and Tranny temp sensors everything else is stock!
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post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old 10-21-2011, 10:35 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by NH2112 View Post
First of all, I would only use the OEM part, # E9TZ-9A758-U. I've tried cables from just about everyone else and they're all short, so that your foot hits the firewall well before you run out of throttle travel.

If you're doing it in a truck it's actually very easy, especially if you have 2-3 feet of 1/4" drive extensions. First, remove the air cleaner. Next, pop the linkage off at the accelerator pedal and injector pump. don't forget to remove it from the bracket near the pump. Then, using a 1/4" drive 8mm socket remove the 2 screws holding the cable bracket to the firewall. Fish the cable out from whatever it's routed through, and install the new cable's ball socket on the pump lever stud. Click the cable into the bracket near the pump, rounded side downward, then run the other end the same way as the old cable, fish it through the opening in the firewall, and install the bushing & cable into the accelerator pedal. Now install the bracket on the firewall using the 2 screws from the old cable, and you're all set. Check for full travel and binding, and replace the air cleaner if everything checks out.
Thanks for the info. Once I knew where to go it did make it easy even though I only had a short extension.
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post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old 10-21-2011, 07:11 PM
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The long extension(s) make it easier since you can work standing up at the front of the truck, you just have to be careful not to drop the screws because they never hit the ground LOL.

Phil

Check my lists of common part numbers in my photos! Updated often!

1991 F350 Lariat XLT, 7.3l, 5-speed, crew cab, SRW, 3.55, 2WD.

1990 Jeep Wrangler Sahara, in the process of a major overhaul/upgrade. OM617 on the horizon! Front & rear Dana 44s from a Wagoneer till I get some 1-ton axles built & narrowed, and eventually a front shackle reversal. Diesel YJ, bay-BEE, and not a cookie-cutter 4BT conversion!
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post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old 10-30-2011, 09:59 AM
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The long extension(s) make it easier since you can work standing up at the front of the truck, you just have to be careful not to drop the screws because they never hit the ground LOL.
LOL, you must be one tall dude! I have to use an old bed pillow and lay it across the hood latch and radiator. I climb up on a small 4 step ladder and lay right on top of the engine. I just replaced my cable yesterday and the glow plugs in about 2 hrs. (Sequencer is next). Posted procedure is right on...great write up. Old cable was binding and the outer core had pulled out of the bulkhead fitting.

1991 Ford F SD Bucket truck W 7.3L IDI
Equipped with TEL-29-EBA Versalift.
with (2) 1050 cca deep cycle batt. emerg backup.
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post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old 11-05-2011, 07:59 PM
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Nope, I'm only 5'11". But the length of my arms (not ape length LOL) plus 2 feet or so of extensions is enough to reach the firewall.

Phil

Check my lists of common part numbers in my photos! Updated often!

1991 F350 Lariat XLT, 7.3l, 5-speed, crew cab, SRW, 3.55, 2WD.

1990 Jeep Wrangler Sahara, in the process of a major overhaul/upgrade. OM617 on the horizon! Front & rear Dana 44s from a Wagoneer till I get some 1-ton axles built & narrowed, and eventually a front shackle reversal. Diesel YJ, bay-BEE, and not a cookie-cutter 4BT conversion!
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post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-08-2013, 11:33 PM
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I got to replace mine it cracked where its joined in the clip where it hooks on the pump. And I cant find one from the ford part #.

1990 F350 7.3 IDI 95,000 miles
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post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-10-2013, 05:59 PM
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I gave our local heavy duty Ford place (Whited Ford, Auburn ME) a call to check price & availability and they'll get back with me in the morning. Another place you could try is Grappone Ford in Bow, NH; they can generally get anything and I think they'll take card numbers over the phone & ship parts.

Phil

Check my lists of common part numbers in my photos! Updated often!

1991 F350 Lariat XLT, 7.3l, 5-speed, crew cab, SRW, 3.55, 2WD.

1990 Jeep Wrangler Sahara, in the process of a major overhaul/upgrade. OM617 on the horizon! Front & rear Dana 44s from a Wagoneer till I get some 1-ton axles built & narrowed, and eventually a front shackle reversal. Diesel YJ, bay-BEE, and not a cookie-cutter 4BT conversion!
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post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-11-2013, 09:40 AM
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I just got off the phone with our local Ford place and that part number is nationally available for about $75. That may be dealer cost, which is what we pay through work.

Phil

Check my lists of common part numbers in my photos! Updated often!

1991 F350 Lariat XLT, 7.3l, 5-speed, crew cab, SRW, 3.55, 2WD.

1990 Jeep Wrangler Sahara, in the process of a major overhaul/upgrade. OM617 on the horizon! Front & rear Dana 44s from a Wagoneer till I get some 1-ton axles built & narrowed, and eventually a front shackle reversal. Diesel YJ, bay-BEE, and not a cookie-cutter 4BT conversion!
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post #11 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-11-2013, 12:47 PM
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wow that cheap huh for a 30 dollar part? Thanks man I was expectin it to be higher than that

1990 F350 7.3 IDI 95,000 miles
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post #12 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-11-2013, 07:21 PM
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I just searched for "E9TZ9A758U" on eBay and found 6 of the cables, 5 going for $58 + $8 shipping. They're all advertised as OEM parts.

Phil

Check my lists of common part numbers in my photos! Updated often!

1991 F350 Lariat XLT, 7.3l, 5-speed, crew cab, SRW, 3.55, 2WD.

1990 Jeep Wrangler Sahara, in the process of a major overhaul/upgrade. OM617 on the horizon! Front & rear Dana 44s from a Wagoneer till I get some 1-ton axles built & narrowed, and eventually a front shackle reversal. Diesel YJ, bay-BEE, and not a cookie-cutter 4BT conversion!
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post #13 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-11-2013, 09:31 PM
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WOW

1990 F350 7.3 IDI 95,000 miles
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post #14 of 17 (permalink) Old 10-02-2013, 10:55 AM
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just did this, used a cable I pulled of a 94 along with the fuel pedal, both fit my 88 perfectly, was the fastest thing I've ever don on that truck, easier then an oil change even! love it, no more bending pedal and binding throttle!

New truck: 1988 F-350 1 ton dualy 2*4, 7.3L IDI Naturally Aspirated, Dual tanks with Camper package.
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post #15 of 17 (permalink) Old 11-21-2013, 11:53 AM
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FYI Tousley Ford in MN has the throttle cable E9TZ9A758U for $53.01 plus shipping.

1991 F150 SC 4x4 7.5L/ZF5
1991 SAE Bronco 7.3L IDI NA/ZF5
1974 F350 Tow Truck 360/T18
2005 Escape 2.3L/CD4E
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