There is no downside to deleting on an '06. I would recommend the kit from IPR. Its a really well though out kit. Here's a link to it on their site:
As far as what else to do while you are in there, I would suggest a turbo cleaning, because the turbo has to come off anyway. I would also highly recommend replacing the stock Y-pipe. Once you remove the EGR cooler as a point of support the bellows in the RH leg of the pipe will fail, and you'll have soot going everywhere and excessive turbo lag. MPD builds modified Y-pipes on an exchange basis. They eliminate the factory bellows in favor of stainless steel flex couplings that will not fail. You may have to modify the heat shield on the LH side to ensure enough clearance for a proper merge collector to turbo seal though, because the new coupling is bigger than the factory connection and typically interferes with that heat shield making a tight merge collector to turbo seal impossible. A few whacks with a hammer solves it pretty simply. Also, change the hot side CAC boots; they typically last 5-6 years before they start to crack and fail causing boost leaks.
Concerning the oil cooler, there is no upgrade. I would only recommend new OEM, and the OEM cooler, despite internet gossip, carries an '03 part number indicating that it has never been "improved" by Ford. Aftermarket coolers are junk, and there are numerous posts about guys who ended up with higher ECT/EOT deltas AFTER the swap than they had before.
The relocation kits are IMO a solution in search of a problem. These kits cost $1,500-$2,500, and there are problems with them over cooling the oil in winter if you live where it gets cold. There are also ECT spikes that can result from these coolers, which can be tuned out, but considering what you're spending on these kits this should not be an issue.
The factory OC does a great job. The issue is not the OC; the issue is the coolant Ford uses, the lack of a coolant filter, and the junk left in the cooling jacket from the casting process. My advice would be to install a coolant filter, change the filter after 1 month, then after 3 months, then do a thorough system flush, refill with a 50/50 mix of distilled water and a CAT EC-1 rated ELC, and then swap the OC. This ensures that you don't just clog a new cooler.
I've got 207k on the clock and swapped the OC once, and it really didn't need it; I was just being cautious. A factory OC kit from Auto Nation runs less than $300 shipped.
'06 F250 4x4 - 5" Flo Pro exhaust, SB Filter intake, Accufab elbow, Edge Evolution (monitoring only), SCT w/ ID custom tune, FASS 195 pump, Gillette Diesel EGR cooler delete, Sinister Diesel coolant filter, ELC coolant, updated turbo drain tube/oil feed line/STC fitting/oil cooler, ARPs w/OEM HGs, Elite coolant lines, ITP RR fuel system, RCD 175/30 injectors, Powermax, BD CCV, FICM.com FICM w/ ID tune, Elite UP, BPD water pump - 13.069 @ 101.94
'02 WRX - Outback rear disc swap, EBC green pads, DBA pillar vane rotors, TXS UP/TBE/TMIC, Perrin LW crank pulley, PPG billet steel shift forks, ACT Streetlite flywheel & clutch, K&N filter, STi Group N motor/trans mounts, TiC/Kartboy rear diff mounts/subframe lock bolts/outrigger stiffeners, Kartboy SS & all shifter bushings, custom PDX tune for Cobb AP - went 14.1 on a terrible 60ft before most of these mods; shooting for 13.50s
Last edited by TKOPerformance; 09-18-2017 at 10:02 AM.