Ford 6 Liter And Svo Or Wvo! - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com
Upgrades and Aftermarket - 6.0L Engine Upgrading or adding OEM or aftermarket equipment to your 2003-Up Super Duty or Excursion with 6.0L Power Stroke diesel engine. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 6.0L Power Stroke engine.

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post #1 of 16 (permalink) Old 05-01-2008, 04:59 AM Thread Starter
 
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Ford 6 Liter And Svo Or Wvo!

Has Anyone On Here Successfully Converted A 6 Oh? I Heard It Wasn't Possible. Then Again, I Have Seen A Few Kits. Has Anyone Done The Conversion? If So, What Kit And How Many Trouble Free Miles. I Can Honestly Get My Hands On About 4000 Gallons Of Wvo A Month. Problem Is I Would Have No Where To Put Such A Large Amount! So I Have The Oil Just Want To Know If There Is A Kit Reliable Enough To Handle Our Troublesome Trucks?! Thanks In Advance For Any Inputs!
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post #2 of 16 (permalink) Old 05-01-2008, 06:40 AM
 
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yes, its been done - not by me, but know a couple of guys in my small world that have 6.0L running the vegistroke kit...
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post #3 of 16 (permalink) Old 05-01-2008, 10:57 AM
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Originally Posted by bombout800 View Post
Has Anyone On Here Successfully Converted A 6 Oh? I Heard It Wasn't Possible. Then Again, I Have Seen A Few Kits. Has Anyone Done The Conversion? If So, What Kit And How Many Trouble Free Miles. I Can Honestly Get My Hands On About 4000 Gallons Of Wvo A Month. Problem Is I Would Have No Where To Put Such A Large Amount! So I Have The Oil Just Want To Know If There Is A Kit Reliable Enough To Handle Our Troublesome Trucks?! Thanks In Advance For Any Inputs!
Move this down to the alternative fuels section, and you'll get more (and better) responses.

I'm not a fan of SVO/WVO because its not good for the air quality. Biodiesel is the better bet. Be careful of WVO - it can contain caustic cleaners that are difficult to remove, and can cause serious injector damage.

OMC

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post #4 of 16 (permalink) Old 05-01-2008, 02:09 PM Thread Starter
 
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well i would be building a filter system with two 55 gallon drums the first drum would contain the wvo but would be filtered through a 1.5 micron filter and a 1 micron filter and into the second tank. From the second tank to the pump to your truck would be a .5 micron and a 0 micron filter. So im pretty sure it would come out as clean or cleaner than new. What do you guys think? Is there any power loss with these kits? Would fuel mileage go down or up. Even though it wouldn't matter because it would be free. See once i have the filtration system the only thing i would need to replace would be the filters. I can screen filter the heavy stuff out rather than clogging the filters up right away. Im just worried about injector problems. i worried that these trucks wont respond well to it. I want it to be safe ya know? I dunno if i should go for it or stay away from it.
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post #5 of 16 (permalink) Old 05-01-2008, 02:18 PM
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BomBout800,

Live anywhere near MD? I'm always looking for a larger supply of WVO to convert. Would give you free fuel once my large processors are done...

130-140 gal. Batchs. Samples Sent away and ASTM quality tested before used.

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post #6 of 16 (permalink) Old 05-05-2008, 10:42 AM
 
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I have run about 400 gallons of 50/50 blended WVO and Dino Diesel in my 2005 6.0. I am settling the WVO for about a week, then cold filtering it at 5 microns, twice. Then re settling for a couple days. Once All that is done, I am left with extremely clean WVO. That gets blended 50/50 with ULSD from the pump and then poured in the tank. Its not driving for free, but i look at it as paying $2 per gallon instead of $4. So far so good. I changed out my fuel filters before i started this and I am keeping a close eye on them both. So far they look normal! Give it a shot. I think the reason nobody is trying it is because these are relatively new and expensive motors to use as guinea pigs. Im happy with my current setup though.
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post #7 of 16 (permalink) Old 05-07-2008, 03:58 AM
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Lots of people are doing it. Go to the alternative fuel section. It's getting harder and harder to find used oil for free now a days. That's how many people are doing it.

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post #8 of 16 (permalink) Old 05-08-2008, 09:53 PM
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Vegistroke kit is the way to go. I installed mine 10k miles ago without a hitch. Truck runs quieter and has the same power. Your mileage will be the same.
In your second post, filtering, depending on where you get your oil will determine your filtering strategy. You should post those questions in the bio/alt fuel section. I currently use a centrifuge and final pump into truck is via a 1 micron bag filter.

--------------------------------------------------
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post #9 of 16 (permalink) Old 05-01-2009, 12:59 PM
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This is a nice forum. I have been blending for about a year now. I have had my share of problems. It all goes with the savings. I blend for my Mercedes, Kubota tractor, Kubota excavator, and a 1985 ford 6.9. Lately since I used more RUG in the winter, the temperature gauges have been running a little higher. This may be since it is finally getting warmer in Ohio. When I have more time to add to the forum I will post my blend and filtering process.

Cheers

Kevin
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post #10 of 16 (permalink) Old 05-04-2009, 12:20 PM
 
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Originally Posted by Blue01F250 View Post
yes, its been done - not by me, but know a couple of guys in my small world that have 6.0L running the vegistroke kit...

HAHAHA the VEGISTROKE KIT... thought that was funny

nice one
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post #11 of 16 (permalink) Old 05-05-2009, 11:51 AM
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HAHAHA the VEGISTROKE KIT... thought that was funny

nice one
Nothin funny about 'em. Dino Fuel Alternatives | Alternative Fuel, Vegetable Oil Fuel Systems, Vegistroke & Bio Diesel

Best VO system you can get.

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post #12 of 16 (permalink) Old 02-28-2012, 06:33 PM
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For Real?

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Originally Posted by 05kingranchFX4 View Post
I have run about 400 gallons of 50/50 blended WVO and Dino Diesel in my 2005 6.0. I am settling the WVO for about a week, then cold filtering it at 5 microns, twice. Then re settling for a couple days. Once All that is done, I am left with extremely clean WVO. That gets blended 50/50 with ULSD from the pump and then poured in the tank. Its not driving for free, but i look at it as paying $2 per gallon instead of $4. So far so good. I changed out my fuel filters before i started this and I am keeping a close eye on them both. So far they look normal! Give it a shot. I think the reason nobody is trying it is because these are relatively new and expensive motors to use as guinea pigs. Im happy with my current setup though.
I have got to know if this is for real. Did you really do this with success so far? I have a friend who has a BA as a diesel mech and decades of experience and he says no, dont do it. Can you tell me more?
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post #13 of 16 (permalink) Old 02-29-2012, 07:18 AM
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I have got to know if this is for real. Did you really do this with success so far? I have a friend who has a BA as a diesel mech and decades of experience and he says no, dont do it. Can you tell me more?
Blending does work. I use some Regular Unleaded Gas though. I used to use naphtha, acetone, and turpentine. I tried them all. You do not need them. Some things you should know though. Get a paint viscosity cup and check your viscosity. All cups are different. My particular cup runs Regular Unleaded Gas (RUG) at 9 seconds. It runs diesel at 11 seconds and my blended fuel at 13 seconds. Just thin enough at 60 degrees to flow well. Cold pre-filtering is the key. I learned this from beer making. The animal fats will be filtered out of vegetable at 68 degrees, like protein haze will filter from beer at 31 degrees. Lowering the temperature to 63 degrees does a better job. Lowering it below 60 will cause it not to flow since I use gravity. When using gravity you will get 1 pound of pressure every 2.5 feet of height. My barrel is 7.5 feet up so I get 3 pounds to filter with. You need to remember water filters are nominal and can pass up to 30 microns, especially under pressure from a pump. Hydraulic oil filters are usually 10 microns. Some fuel filters built by WIX are less. FASS has a 3-micron, but I do not know who makes it for them.

As for your buddy with the degree, he must have been absent the day when they talked about the history of diesel. Rudolph Diesel made the engine to run on renewable sources from the farm. My wife has a masterís degree with a 4.0. I love her but she cannot set a mousetrap. She too was absent that day.

Do not be shy just blend, and let me know how it works for you. I want to also let you know adding too much RUG to a winter diesel and using it in the summer will cause injection pumps to not produce enough pressure. In the winter keep a bottle of your fuel outside in a clear bottle when you make it. If it is cloudy from the cold overnight, you need more gas or diesel in your blend. I have added auxiliary pumps to the Mercedes and the Kubota to help overcome the thicker viscosity in colder weather but not cloudy fuel.

Change your oil at 3000 or 4000 miles when you run veggie fuel. Some of it ends up in the crankcase bypassing the rings.

My 6-liter Ford has 58000 miles on it and runs fine. My 6.9 IDI runs fine. The Kubota now has a heated fuel filter from WIX that filters to 5 microns.
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Wow

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Originally Posted by Yes View Post
Blending does work. I use some Regular Unleaded Gas though. I used to use naphtha, acetone, and turpentine. I tried them all. You do not need them. Some things you should know though. Get a paint viscosity cup and check your viscosity. All cups are different. My particular cup runs Regular Unleaded Gas (RUG) at 9 seconds. It runs diesel at 11 seconds and my blended fuel at 13 seconds. Just thin enough at 60 degrees to flow well. Cold pre-filtering is the key. I learned this from beer making. The animal fats will be filtered out of vegetable at 68 degrees, like protein haze will filter from beer at 31 degrees. Lowering the temperature to 63 degrees does a better job. Lowering it below 60 will cause it not to flow since I use gravity. When using gravity you will get 1 pound of pressure every 2.5 feet of height. My barrel is 7.5 feet up so I get 3 pounds to filter with. You need to remember water filters are nominal and can pass up to 30 microns, especially under pressure from a pump. Hydraulic oil filters are usually 10 microns. Some fuel filters built by WIX are less. FASS has a 3-micron, but I do not know who makes it for them.

As for your buddy with the degree, he must have been absent the day when they talked about the history of diesel. Rudolph Diesel made the engine to run on renewable sources from the farm. My wife has a masterís degree with a 4.0. I love her but she cannot set a mousetrap. She too was absent that day.

[COLOR=black][FONT=Verdana]Do not be shy just blend, and let me know how it works for you. I want to also let you know adding too much RUG to a winter diesel and using it in the summer will cause injection pumps to not produce enough pressure. In the winter keep a bottle of your fuel outside in a clear bottle when you make it. If it is cloudy from the cold overnight, you need more gas or diesel in your blend. I have added auxiliary pumps to the Mercedes and the Kubota to help overcome the thicker viscosity in colder weather but not cloudy fuel.

My 6-liter Ford has 58000 miles on it and runs fine. My 6.9 IDI runs fine. The Kubota now has a heated fuel filter from WIX that filters to 5 microns.
That is awesome news and good heads up as I have never done this. Our winters in middle GA are mild and I have heard of the RUG thing but I am going to have some more questions for sure. I will ask more detail in the future but for now
1. What type of filter are your using in your 7.5' gravity system? You mentioned WIX.
2. How are you lowering temps to "cold filter" and is that sufficient to dry the oil of water?
3. If you cant get those temps would a my basement in the summer work at 70 degrees?
4. What size is your top barrel?
5. Do you blend anything in the WVO before it gravity filters?
6. Since you are changing oil more frequent (I had premeditated the same) have you mixed the used oil into your WVO to "recycle" it?

Thank you so much for your time and knowledge. Wish I could come mow your grass. I am a greenhorn but dedicated to make this work right, not bootleg.
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post #15 of 16 (permalink) Old 03-01-2012, 09:44 AM
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Blending does work. I use some Regular Unleaded Gas though. I used to use naphtha, acetone, and turpentine. I tried them all. You do not need them. Some things you should know though. Get a paint viscosity cup and check your viscosity. All cups are different. My particular cup runs Regular Unleaded Gas (RUG) at 9 seconds. It runs diesel at 11 seconds and my blended fuel at 13 seconds. Just thin enough at 60 degrees to flow well. Cold pre-filtering is the key. I learned this from beer making. The animal fats will be filtered out of vegetable at 68 degrees, like protein haze will filter from beer at 31 degrees. Lowering the temperature to 63 degrees does a better job. Lowering it below 60 will cause it not to flow since I use gravity. When using gravity you will get 1 pound of pressure every 2.5 feet of height. My barrel is 7.5 feet up so I get 3 pounds to filter with. You need to remember water filters are nominal and can pass up to 30 microns, especially under pressure from a pump. Hydraulic oil filters are usually 10 microns. Some fuel filters built by WIX are less. FASS has a 3-micron, but I do not know who makes it for them.

As for your buddy with the degree, he must have been absent the day when they talked about the history of diesel. Rudolph Diesel made the engine to run on renewable sources from the farm. My wife has a masterís degree with a 4.0. I love her but she cannot set a mousetrap. She too was absent that day.

Do not be shy just blend, and let me know how it works for you. I want to also let you know adding too much RUG to a winter diesel and using it in the summer will cause injection pumps to not produce enough pressure. In the winter keep a bottle of your fuel outside in a clear bottle when you make it. If it is cloudy from the cold overnight, you need more gas or diesel in your blend. I have added auxiliary pumps to the Mercedes and the Kubota to help overcome the thicker viscosity in colder weather but not cloudy fuel.

Change your oil at 3000 or 4000 miles when you run veggie fuel. Some of it ends up in the crankcase bypassing the rings.

My 6-liter Ford has 58000 miles on it and runs fine. My 6.9 IDI runs fine. The Kubota now has a heated fuel filter from WIX that filters to 5 microns.
If you have a minute tell me what you think about this very ANTI RUG in diesel:

from (Mixing Gasoline And Diesel)

Gasoline and alcohols hit diesel fuel right where it hurts the most. Those light thin fuels will lower the cetane number and lubricity. To explain how octane and cetane DO NOT work together, Iíll have to review more crude oil and fuel fundamentals.

The light distillates that gasolines are made from have a natural high-octane index. The middle distillates that diesel fuels come from have a high cetane index. The octane and cetane indexes are INVERSE scales. A fuel that has a high octane number has a low cetane number, and a high cetane fuel has a low octane number. Anything with a high octane rating will retard diesel fuelís ability to ignite. Thatís why each fuel has developed along with different types of engine designs and fuel delivery systems. Gasoline mixed in diesel fuel will inhibit combustion in a diesel engine and diesel fuel mixed in gasoline will ignite too soon in a gasoline engine.
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