Installing Head Studs - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com
Upgrades and Aftermarket - 6.0L Engine Upgrading or adding OEM or aftermarket equipment to your 2003-Up Super Duty or Excursion with 6.0L Power Stroke diesel engine. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 6.0L Power Stroke engine.

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post #1 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-12-2012, 07:29 PM Thread Starter
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Installing Head Studs

Around how much would it cost to install head studs?

1st Truck(got stolen): 2005 F-250 6.0 Powerstroke Lariat 4x4 w/t SCT Livewire with Custom tune from TSD, EGT sensor kit, 4" MBRP turbo back straight pipe exhaust. 18" XD adicts, 35" nitto all terians, 2" leveling kit, Smoked LED Recon taillights, hornblaster PA and sirens.

2nd Truck: 2006 F-250 6.0 Powerstroke Lariat 4x4 w/t Edge Juice with Attitude, S&D cold air intanke, 3.5" straight pipe, 18" XD Rockstars, 33" Toyo open countys, Smoked LED Recon taillights, 3" leveling kit

Current Truck: 2008 F-250 6.4 Powerstroke XLT 4x4, w/t H&S XRT Pro, S&B Air Intake, 4" flo pr straight pipe, 8" tip, 22" bzo, 37" nitto trail grapplers, smoked LED Recon taillights, smoked recon cab lights
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post #2 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-13-2012, 12:38 PM
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Originally Posted by SouthTexasFishingTeam View Post
Around how much would it cost to install head studs?
Depends. Starting from a stock truck; I was quoted $4600.00 for flush, new coolant, new oil cooler, EGR delete, ARP studs, OEM Ford head gaskets, blue spring fp mod, oil change and new fuel and oil filters.

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post #3 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-13-2012, 06:01 PM Thread Starter
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thats alot, im looking to just do head studs right now, do you know how much hours of labor it would be to do head studs

1st Truck(got stolen): 2005 F-250 6.0 Powerstroke Lariat 4x4 w/t SCT Livewire with Custom tune from TSD, EGT sensor kit, 4" MBRP turbo back straight pipe exhaust. 18" XD adicts, 35" nitto all terians, 2" leveling kit, Smoked LED Recon taillights, hornblaster PA and sirens.

2nd Truck: 2006 F-250 6.0 Powerstroke Lariat 4x4 w/t Edge Juice with Attitude, S&D cold air intanke, 3.5" straight pipe, 18" XD Rockstars, 33" Toyo open countys, Smoked LED Recon taillights, 3" leveling kit

Current Truck: 2008 F-250 6.4 Powerstroke XLT 4x4, w/t H&S XRT Pro, S&B Air Intake, 4" flo pr straight pipe, 8" tip, 22" bzo, 37" nitto trail grapplers, smoked LED Recon taillights, smoked recon cab lights
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post #4 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-13-2012, 07:36 PM
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Originally Posted by SouthTexasFishingTeam View Post
thats alot, im looking to just do head studs right now, do you know how much hours of labor it would be to do head studs

Sorry, but I don't know the answer to your question.

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post #5 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-13-2012, 09:44 PM
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I think you'll be hard pressed to get an honest answer to that question. Most professional mechanics (and most amateurs for that matter) won't do "half" a job.

This reminds me of a time when a friend shows at my place and says "I need a new throw-out bearing". I promptly tell him to pick up a new clutch and pressure plate too. He then tells me he only wants the bearing replaced. So, stupid me, I take it apart for him and I show him that the pressure plate is gouged from the worn bearing. He doesn't care and tells me to put it together like that. A week later he comes back with the same problem. I then told him where to go!

I don't mean to be negative. Some jobs just aren't meant to be done part way. If you can't afford to do it right, it's best to wait until you can or you risk spending more than you have to.

2005 F-350 CC, LB, 4x4, Dually, 6.0 Powerstroke, Torqueshift, 4:10 Gears. Gooseneck and rear pull hitches. "Truck Covers USA" roll up aluminum tonneau cover. Putco Boss Running Boards. Aluminum finned diff covers. Bilstein HD shocks. ProComp steering stabilizer. XRF ball joints. NC Hornet CCV mod. RCD egr delete kit. AirDog fuel system. Strictly Diesel's regulated fuel and coolant return lines kits. Amsoil oil bypass (by NUC Motorsports) and homebuilt coolant bypass kits. CFM intake elbow. ARP head studs with factory gaskets and all upgrades. FICM by Ed with Atlas 40 tune, DC Power 185 amp alternator, MBRP 304SS "Cool Dual" exhaust system. SCT Livewire tuner with pyrometer. Autometer 'A' pillar gauges (Boost/Trans temp/Pyrometer/Fuel Pressure). 850 CCA Motorcraft Batteries. Using Rotella T-6 synthetic oil. Upgraded degas tank and cap. Hayes deep aluminum trans pan. GoGo Diesel modified direct clutch solenoid. Retro Solutions HID head and fog lights. High idle mod. Jimmi-Jammers. +More.
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post #6 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-13-2012, 11:44 PM Thread Starter
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so if I were to get head studs, what else do I need?

1st Truck(got stolen): 2005 F-250 6.0 Powerstroke Lariat 4x4 w/t SCT Livewire with Custom tune from TSD, EGT sensor kit, 4" MBRP turbo back straight pipe exhaust. 18" XD adicts, 35" nitto all terians, 2" leveling kit, Smoked LED Recon taillights, hornblaster PA and sirens.

2nd Truck: 2006 F-250 6.0 Powerstroke Lariat 4x4 w/t Edge Juice with Attitude, S&D cold air intanke, 3.5" straight pipe, 18" XD Rockstars, 33" Toyo open countys, Smoked LED Recon taillights, 3" leveling kit

Current Truck: 2008 F-250 6.4 Powerstroke XLT 4x4, w/t H&S XRT Pro, S&B Air Intake, 4" flo pr straight pipe, 8" tip, 22" bzo, 37" nitto trail grapplers, smoked LED Recon taillights, smoked recon cab lights
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post #7 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-14-2012, 08:53 AM
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I remember my old High School shop teacher drilling us whenever someone screwed something up. He used to say;

"There's never enough time to do it the right way the first time, but always enough time to do it the right way the second time."

or something like that. It was ages ago. But it makes sense.

2005 F250 XLT SC, LB
6.0 Torqueshift 3.73LS 4x4 T/C
Trk Bld: 02/05/05 KY
Eng Bld: 02/03/05 Indianapolis
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post #8 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-14-2012, 09:04 AM
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I had gotten a price from River City Diesel about a month ago for head stud installation. They told me 3200. Anything else you wanted would just be cost of parts as it is all removed anyway, ie injectors, turbo, coolers. Not sure if that included decking of the heads or not.

'05 F250 Lariat Crew Shorty Dark Stone FX4
AFE, MBRP single 304 4"w/ test pipe
ARP's w/ stock gaskets, Air Dog II 165
Driven Diesel Reg Ret fuel Kit
RCD Delete, 180/75's, 68mm VG Blow Jobby
Innovative Diesel Tuned SCT X3
Diesel Site coolant filter, Insight CTS
Overhead Auto Meters, Leveled
Homebrew traction bars
35x12.50x20 ATZ's on Ultra Mako's
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post #9 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-14-2012, 02:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SouthTexasFishingTeam View Post
so if I were to get head studs, what else do I need?
You'll need to test to see if your egr cooler and oil cooler are running within their parameters. Many change them out while stuff is apart. An addition of a coolant filter is a great idea at this point. While heads are off get them checked for flatness and and any cracking. Flushing the coolant before taking stuff apart is also a good idea. Upgrading the STC fitting plus various o-rings (stand pipe, dummy plugs, injectors, etc) and of course, head gaskets are needed too.

2005 F-350 CC, LB, 4x4, Dually, 6.0 Powerstroke, Torqueshift, 4:10 Gears. Gooseneck and rear pull hitches. "Truck Covers USA" roll up aluminum tonneau cover. Putco Boss Running Boards. Aluminum finned diff covers. Bilstein HD shocks. ProComp steering stabilizer. XRF ball joints. NC Hornet CCV mod. RCD egr delete kit. AirDog fuel system. Strictly Diesel's regulated fuel and coolant return lines kits. Amsoil oil bypass (by NUC Motorsports) and homebuilt coolant bypass kits. CFM intake elbow. ARP head studs with factory gaskets and all upgrades. FICM by Ed with Atlas 40 tune, DC Power 185 amp alternator, MBRP 304SS "Cool Dual" exhaust system. SCT Livewire tuner with pyrometer. Autometer 'A' pillar gauges (Boost/Trans temp/Pyrometer/Fuel Pressure). 850 CCA Motorcraft Batteries. Using Rotella T-6 synthetic oil. Upgraded degas tank and cap. Hayes deep aluminum trans pan. GoGo Diesel modified direct clutch solenoid. Retro Solutions HID head and fog lights. High idle mod. Jimmi-Jammers. +More.
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post #10 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-15-2012, 12:28 PM
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Does anyone besides me see how rediculous this is?! Wish I'd known I'd have to plunk down an additional 5 grand on this truck before I bought it. Would have spent the extra money on a D-Max! I mean, isn't anybody else pissed about it?! The designers made a mistake on this. THEY need to make it right! Hell, the government would've bailed them out anyway. Sorry. Had to rant about it.

03 6.0 Superduty - only 89k miles
93 Explorer 180K miles - owned since new
97 Cavalier - beater car - 125k miles
69 Firebird - lots of miles
05 Honda VTX 1800F - 25k miles
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post #11 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-15-2012, 05:28 PM
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Does anyone besides me see how rediculous this is?! Wish I'd known I'd have to plunk down an additional 5 grand on this truck before I bought it. Would have spent the extra money on a D-Max! I mean, isn't anybody else pissed about it?! The designers made a mistake on this. THEY need to make it right! Hell, the government would've bailed them out anyway. Sorry. Had to rant about it.
It is slightly frustrating to have to put a good chink of change into a truck that most of us payed over 30K for in the first place. The real issue is that you would want a Dmax! I can understand a cummins! haha, sorry, had to rant...

'05 F250 Lariat Crew Shorty Dark Stone FX4
AFE, MBRP single 304 4"w/ test pipe
ARP's w/ stock gaskets, Air Dog II 165
Driven Diesel Reg Ret fuel Kit
RCD Delete, 180/75's, 68mm VG Blow Jobby
Innovative Diesel Tuned SCT X3
Diesel Site coolant filter, Insight CTS
Overhead Auto Meters, Leveled
Homebrew traction bars
35x12.50x20 ATZ's on Ultra Mako's
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post #12 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-16-2012, 08:18 PM
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The Big Three all have/had problems with their diesel engines to some degree. My 2001 5.9 had issues with the Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor and the POS Carter fuel pump, which was mounted on the block. I was lucky, because other 5.9 owners had the dreaded "53" block, which is prone to cracking. All in all, I spent a little over a grand to get my 5.9 reliable;I've spent close to the same amount to make my 6.0 reliable.

My point is that the grass isn't always greener on the other side. If they all decided to quit the HP/TQ peeing contest, I wonder if we'd have a better quality product...

BTW, I've seen quotes of $1700 labor to do head studs from other members, but I agree with the others, do it right the first time and knock everything out, so you never have to worry about it again.

Fred

2004 F-350 CC DRW LB FX4 4x4
Oxford White/Arizona Beige
King Ranch
2012 Ford bed w/Factory Reese hitch option
4.10 TracLok
Dieselsite Coolant Filter
IH Fleetrite ELC
Blue Spring Update
43,956 miles - Replaced 6.0L
54,814 miles - Turbo
94,943 miles - Fan clutch
98,755 miles - FICM
127,057 miles - Aftermarket Alternator
154,120 miles - HPOP & Oil Cooler
168,514 miles - Radiator, water pump, t-stat & hoses
178,810 mles - #7 injector
181,807 miles - A/C Compressor
199,458 miles - Motorcraft Alternator
199,506 miles - FICM
199,521 miles - #1, #4, #8 injectors

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post #13 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-16-2012, 10:42 PM
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Does anyone besides me see how rediculous this is?! Wish I'd known I'd have to plunk down an additional 5 grand on this truck before I bought it. Would have spent the extra money on a D-Max! I mean, isn't anybody else pissed about it?! The designers made a mistake on this. THEY need to make it right! Hell, the government would've bailed them out anyway. Sorry. Had to rant about it.
I tell you what, you want a duramax go get one, i switched from a 04 duramax to a 07 6.0L about 4 months ago, i knew the problems but duramax's had injector problems... and if you don't care about being squooshed in your truck, get a duramax, yea the motor could handle the power i threw at it but the injectors and labor for mine was quoted out at $4,000. You think i regret getting my ford and dumping my duramax? Not at all other than my stupid kid side loving the extra power, until my tranny went into limp mode... I love my ford way more than i loved my duramax... Built Tough _____ Izuzu = Foreign...

New: 2012 Ram 3500 cummins CCSB 4x4
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Also new tonneau Cover.

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post #14 of 18 (permalink) Old 11-16-2014, 12:57 AM
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I have an 04 6.0 and am doing the ARP studs now. 124000miles out. I am second owner. First owner did EVERYTHING else but the studs. And a Ford dealership did his work for him. My question.....why not the studs also???
O well, dealership friends here say once I'm done with this, regular maintenance should be all that's left.
We all have our preference to what we drive so be happy with it. I am. And it's been a two day job without removing the cab.
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post #15 of 18 (permalink) Old 11-16-2014, 03:28 PM
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Doing studs you'll need:

ARP studs
OEM head gasket set (inlcudes standpipes & DPs)
OEM intake gasket kit (get the one with the turbo mounting kit)
OEM exhaust manifold gaskets (not used on F-series, but will leak once taken apart without them, think E-series used them factory)
LH & RH glow plug harnesses (will be brittle from heat, often damaged, not worth the risk trying to reuse the old ones)
EGR delete (optional, but highly recommended)
STC fitting upgrade kit
Blue spring upgrade kit
OEM OC (optional, but its very easy to do not while you're there)
Coolant filter kit (flushing prior to the work is a really good idea too)

And yes it sucks having to drop your coin to fix Ford's problem, but that's how it is anymore. No other manufacturer's product is going to be better. Even the once mighty Cummins has been felled by emissions and computer controls. Look at it this way, its a lot cheaper than a new truck.

'06 F250 4x4 - 5" Flo Pro exhaust, SB Filter intake, Accufab elbow, Edge Evolution (monitoring only), SCT w/ ID custom tune, FASS 195 pump, Gillette Diesel EGR cooler delete, Sinister Diesel coolant filter, ELC coolant, updated turbo drain tube/oil feed line/STC fitting/oil cooler, ARPs w/OEM HGs, Elite coolant lines, ITP RR fuel system, RCD 175/30 injectors, Powermax, BD CCV, FICM.com FICM w/ ID tune, Elite UP, BPD water pump - 13.069 @ 101.94

'02 WRX - Outback rear disc swap, EBC green pads, DBA pillar vane rotors, TXS UP/TBE/TMIC, Perrin LW crank pulley, PPG billet steel shift forks, ACT Streetlite flywheel & clutch, K&N filter, STi Group N motor/trans mounts, TiC/Kartboy rear diff mounts/subframe lock bolts/outrigger stiffeners, Kartboy SS & all shifter bushings, custom PDX tune for Cobb AP - went 14.1 on a terrible 60ft before most of these mods; shooting for 13.50s
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