Simple upgrades? - Page 2 - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com
Upgrades and Aftermarket - 6.0L Engine Upgrading or adding OEM or aftermarket equipment to your 2003-Up Super Duty or Excursion with 6.0L Power Stroke diesel engine. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 6.0L Power Stroke engine.

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post #16 of 21 (permalink) Old 07-30-2012, 12:22 AM
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Originally Posted by idahoguy1 View Post
Like I said i've never owned a diesel. Everyone says use synthetic oil. I have always used Delo 400 15W40. Is there anything wrong with this. Just curious if so and why.

Thanks
Delo 400 15w40 is a good oil but these injectors like a 5w40 Syn oil Dino oil can't take the heat you can get what they call cokeing and stiction then you will have to add something like Rev-x to help clean the injectors (maybe) These injectors shear the oil so about 5k is about max.
2 stroker

06 F350 4x4 PSD Lariat FX4 CC LB
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Edge Insight CTS with Expandable pyro
AutoMeter Fuel Pressure Gauge 0-100
Sinister Fuel Pressure Adapter
Updated Fuel Reg. Kit 3C3Z-9T517-AG
WOT 58lbs Idle 62-64lbs Just Right
HFCM Water Separator Drain Plug Upgrade
Ford Cetane boost every fillup
Amsoil By-Pass(Amsoil 5w40)
Fumoto Oil Drain Valve
Dieselsite Coolant Filtration System
Dieselsite Boots
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Delo ELC Coolant
Tow Command
Upfitter Switches
Pulling a 14,000 lb Alpenlite 5er
Roll-N-Lock bed cover
97 F350 4x4 PSD CC LB (sold it)
1700 Super Chip
PacBrake&ATS converter lockup
3" dp-4" exhaust
TruCool 28,000 lb cooler
Tymar Intake
A pillar EGT,Boost,Trans
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post #17 of 21 (permalink) Old 07-30-2012, 07:30 AM
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EGR Delite

How hard is it to do the job my self? I'm slow but good !
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post #18 of 21 (permalink) Old 07-30-2012, 12:43 PM
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Originally Posted by indian347 View Post
How hard is it to do the job my self? I'm slow but good !
You be the judge, remember if you do the egr you need to change the oil cooler but you should do a coolant flush first along with a coolant filter.
6.0L egr cooler/oil cooler replacement pt.2 - YouTube
6.0L egr cooler/oil cooler replacement pt.3 start up - YouTube
2 stroker

06 F350 4x4 PSD Lariat FX4 CC LB
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Edge Insight CTS with Expandable pyro
AutoMeter Fuel Pressure Gauge 0-100
Sinister Fuel Pressure Adapter
Updated Fuel Reg. Kit 3C3Z-9T517-AG
WOT 58lbs Idle 62-64lbs Just Right
HFCM Water Separator Drain Plug Upgrade
Ford Cetane boost every fillup
Amsoil By-Pass(Amsoil 5w40)
Fumoto Oil Drain Valve
Dieselsite Coolant Filtration System
Dieselsite Boots
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Delo ELC Coolant
Tow Command
Upfitter Switches
Pulling a 14,000 lb Alpenlite 5er
Roll-N-Lock bed cover
97 F350 4x4 PSD CC LB (sold it)
1700 Super Chip
PacBrake&ATS converter lockup
3" dp-4" exhaust
TruCool 28,000 lb cooler
Tymar Intake
A pillar EGT,Boost,Trans
2 Stroker is offline  
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post #19 of 21 (permalink) Old 08-01-2012, 08:26 AM
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First off if you start modifying things itís going to cost you in the end if you donít go all in. I had a 6.0L 2005 with the full Banks package Cold Air Intake, Ram Air Charge Air Cooler, Turbo Back Exhaust with Cat delete, Six Gun Tuner w/ speed loader, Boost & Pyrometer Gauges, IPR EGR Cooler, IPR Oil Cooler, Coolant Filter, ARP Head Studs, etcÖ I blew my heads 4 times (twice after the ARP Studs), completely replaced the heads 3 times $6k each time, went through 3 EGR coolers (before I got the IPR, and 3 oil coolers (before I got the IPR).

You can get a lot more power with the above mods, but in the end it will become unreliable and cost you $$$$$$$$$$$. The intake, charge air cooler or the exhaust, didnít improve my mileage or any noticeable power gains w/o the six gun tuner. However after the 3rd set of heads I took the tuner out and got another 50,000miles out of it.

If you want to keep it reliable, do your research:
Coolant filter, IPR EGR Cooler, and IPR Oil Cooler

The 6.0L is a fragile engine with some serious design flaws, thatís why Ford sued Navistar for $1 billion due to warranty issues. I finally got rid of it and bought a 2012 F250 6.7L 

GOOD LUCK
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post #20 of 21 (permalink) Old 08-01-2012, 01:23 PM
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The 2004 Ford diesels have had more problems than usual with the engine overall but in particular with engine cooling and the fuel system. It would make sense to start with these areas and see what is practical.

It would be a good use of your time to check this and other Ford owners' forums (not just diesel) and see what specific repairs people have had to make on their 2003-2007 trucks with this engine (Ford did major changes in 2010 model year trucks). Then decide whether to put the money into fixes or leave it in the bank to have ready for repairs. The drivetrain problems are also something to take note of and the cost of the repairs so you can budget for this future expense.

With any vehicle I buy the first thing I do is put together a maintenance schedule and if the vehicle is used then I assume unless I have evidence to the contrary that the proper maintenance has not been done and start from scratch with fluid changes. With 60K miles that would include oil, transmission, and coolant, and related filters as well as the fuel filter. This would also be a good time to add an aftermarket fuel filtration system as with the Ford diesels this seems like a prudent investment considering their history of fuel system problems for the 2003-2007 trucks.

Last edited by elkhornsun; 08-01-2012 at 01:56 PM.
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post #21 of 21 (permalink) Old 08-01-2012, 01:24 PM
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I have a 04 with 270,000 kms on it. From new I added an air intake from AFE, I know a lot of guys say you don't need it but I think I saved a bunch of money on filters by washing instead of replacing, a Turbo back exhaust and a Van Aaken chip. I run 5 w 40 Mobil Delvac syn and change every 15,000 kms. This year I had the EGR deleted. I have flushed the coolant twice and the tranny once. We pull a fifth wheel which ways about 11,000 loaded. I get about 13 mpg towing and 22-24 mpg non towing at about 100km/hour.

These are good trucks and much more robust then many people tell you. I think the key is to watch your gauges and avoid overheating. The truck will pull itself to death I think. I keep an eye on my gauges and back off when the temps climb. We live in the mountains so pulling up grades is a fact of life for us. If I insist on driving like an idiot I am sure my truck would blow up so I pull up the grades at 80 k/hr instead of 100 and my truck lives to pull another day.

Have fun with your new toy, you made a good purchase.

2004 F350 Lariat, Crew Cab, long box, 6.ol w/torque shift auto, fully optioned. Mods include; Vanaaken smart box, AFE air intake, 4 inch exhaust with 3 inch downpipe, Isspro gauges on A pillar, Bilstein shocks, Roo driving lights, PIAA bulbs, Truxedo tonneau cover. Use 5-40 Delvac synthetic. Egr delete in May 2012, Riffraff intercooler boots. Daily driver and regularly tow a 27 foot Fifth wheel.
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