Burning gp's. Mineral oil has more energy than diesel, therefore it burns hotter. When I tried wmo I recall the metal tip enclosing the wire had eroded and exposed the innards on one side, which was the side that faced the injector. Wvo does not have the energy of diesel so burns cooler, so no glow plug problems.
Yes, it isn't the start that is the problem is it, its the hotter burning oil. The glow plugs wont do it.
Try a gp on a battery, they get red hot real quick, couple of seconds. They self regulate a bit, like a light globe, the resistance increases with temp.
You can get ceramic tip plugs, go for a set of those for a try, has to be the answer?
Thanks for the thoughts however it doesn't explain why one of the worst cases I've heard of, the guy was using wvo +10% diesel, heat exchangers, injector heaters, two tank, 3km purge. He destroyed a set of Bosch GP in 5months on about 1500km. Pics showed the identical problem to mine and others. The tip casings are all pocked and blistered.
What I know now is I don't need to heat the GP's to anywhere near the 800°C (some to 1100°C) that they do. I only need exceed autoignition temperature of 210°C and some of that heat can come from compression.
LPG cylinders, yes, start collecting them, 45kg house bottles, I use them upside down for the drain tap at the bottom. I use 5/16 steel fuel line off an old car, the bends are good, grind around where the hole will be to prepare the surface for the next step. Drill a neat hole in the tank (after vacuuming the tank out with your vac pump, careful, the exhaust will be propane and ignitable), then insert your tube and superglue it in position. I build up a little mound around the pipe and the tank with sawdust and superglue for extra strength and I haven't had one fail or leak yet.
While it wont pass the vehicle design regs I have done my vehicle tank this way too, again, no failure or leaks. Otherwise it's tap the hole and screw a fitting in, or solder or bronze the steel tube in, super glue is just a very easy way to achieve a penetration and tube fitting anywhere in a tank.
I have 2 of those cylinders set as upflow settler vessels. I always thought they would be good vessels for vacuum treating. I'll put the feelers out for a couple more. I like your DIY approach to piping, nice. I'll weld some fittings on as that's one of my trades.
Settling is the key to it all, you read this a lot, its the secret to separating the oil from the goop, don't try to filter it out, let it settle out before extracting the clear oil off the top in the drum it is collected in. Filters last 1000lt (IBC) easy.
I agree with the thought about settling. The thing about settling is that it's working 24/7, even while I'm sleeping or out riding my motorcycle. I have my upflow settler set up so the fuel drips out at the rate I ultimately use it. So if I'm getting more than I need, I slow the drip rate. I've not had to replace any downstream filters in a long time and there is 6.
Good oil will be 90% clear in the drum from the right places. It is waste here, can get all you want, free. I picked up 200 lt today, and 300 last week!
Nice going with the oil haul. I have some hundreds of liters of wvo just waiting for me to make bio. I stopped making when pump diesel dropped to prices I never thought I'd ever see again. It wasn't that long ago that I lost my main free wvo supply because someone had offered a bounty on it.
I would like to wash my oil, but that's another story, with emulsions and their problems, I have washed small quantities in plastic bottles by shaking and amazed at what comes out in the water. So settled, filtered to 1u, washed and vacuum dried is my goal.
I'd like to know more about your washing technique. I once hot water washed a sample of typical black wmo. The wash was a horrible brown opaque liquid looking like a milkshake.
Is it all worth the effort? My word it is, no more $80 fill-ups for me.
It's more work than many would realize but it is fun and one can save a good chunk of change