WMO How to thread - Page 14 - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com
Bio-Diesel and Alternative Fuels Discussion of biodiesel (homegrown or store bought) and other alternative fuels for diesel-powered vehicles.

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post #196 of 202 (permalink) Old 09-04-2014, 02:15 PM
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Originally Posted by [email protected] View Post
So I am very new to "black diesel" and doing my homework... Man you guys/gals on this forum are sharp!
My question is can you cut the WMO with JetA (aviation fuel)?
I plan to try the 85/15 mix... Also, my truck is an 05 powerstroke. Any specific issues with this 6.0 that I should be aware of? Thanks for all the great info.

So I havent posted in awhile- summers are crazy busy! as for the new guy- Im not to framiliar w/jetA but the 85/15 mix is definetily a rug mix. I have pretty much swt'd to non-ethanol rug as when using the standard ethanol unleaded gas i was noticing alot of condensate in the filler neck on my m-11 powered motorhome. Though like alot of electronic injected diesels it has a plate heater and returns heated fuel to the tank. after swting to non-E rug little to no condensate. took almost 600 gallons between tank and trailer to power us to Alaska and back this summer. Sure beat paying 6+ a gallon in Canada.
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post #197 of 202 (permalink) Old 10-15-2014, 04:38 PM
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Where do you sell the oil when you get it? I am in KY.
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post #198 of 202 (permalink) Old 10-15-2015, 07:26 PM
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I have a question. Im really excited about trying a wmo rug mixture in my 99psd. I was planning a 2 tank system, one for settling and mixing, one for filtering. Plan on a 10 micron and 5 micron screw on fuel filter.

How do you know when to change filters? how many gallons will they filter?

Any help is ppreciated
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post #199 of 202 (permalink) Old 11-07-2015, 12:18 AM Thread Starter
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Wow! This thread sure has grown. Question came up about WMO on the IDI Drivers group on Facebook. I haven't posted here in forever. Still have my truck but not driving it much these days. Only thing new for me is I'm not using RUG anymore as I'm suspicious that either the RUG or the ethanol in it eats away at the insulation around the IP solenoid and kills it. I got rid of the upflow processor as well. It really worked well for WVO but not so much for WMO. Boiling or avoiding water altogether works best for WMO. Anyway thought I'd drop by and say hi and give you all an update!
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post #200 of 202 (permalink) Old 11-07-2015, 10:00 AM
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Welcome back, Chris! Hope things are going well. Are you still machining? A few of the new guys might be interested in your SBC oil pump plates.

2003 F-250 XLT Crew Cab 7.3L, Chrome BigTex Grille Guard, Quad pillar - 3 ISSPRO gauges (trans, pyro, boost) and DP-Tuner F6; Roush fuel pressure / temperature / oil pressure gauges, Ford Severe Duty AIS, 31 row 6.0 transmission cooler, ScanGauge II, Marinco mod, Walker BTM, Full Force Stage 1 injectors

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post #201 of 202 (permalink) Old 11-08-2015, 09:00 AM
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After wanting one for about 20 years, I am finally getting a 12 valve Cummins-1995 with about 175K on it. Right now I am just stockpiling all my WATF while Diesel is comparatively cheap. I know it is not going to stay down forever. Question is--how do those engines like WMO? To be specific, when I was running it ,it was mostly WATF with about 20% rug, then that about 50/50 with D2. At that rate, for one thing, my supply and usage were about equal. Anything I should know about the Cummins? Thanks I was going to put a tranny in the 6.2, and add a turbo, but for now am not going to do anything with it for a while-- after I retire and move, may have time and desire to mess with it.
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post #202 of 202 (permalink) Old 02-20-2019, 12:51 PM
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I modified my fuel system to include a plate exchanger, dual pumps and spin on filtration, also changed the fuel recirculation point to downstream of my heads. I do have a few other modifications to allow the truck to start in temps approaching 0F (third battery, small aux tank filled with diesel). My WMO was dry, heated and centrifuged. I ran my 99 7.3 PSD truck for about 4000 miles on non-diluted (100%) WMO. The cylinders did carbon, compression did increase to the point where the rings failed, ultimately loosing compression in two cylinders and smoking like a freight train - even when running diesel.

My current outlook is that a little stinky smoke can be very expensive. Even if you can find a way to get your truck to start and run on WMO, I would caution that you watch your tailpipe. If it smokes, do something different, perhaps dilute with RUG. I will probably need to let my wallet heal a bit before I re-start this experiment.
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