'2003 6.0L no start hot - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com
6.0L Power Stroke Engine and Drivetrain Discussion of the 6.0L Power Stroke diesel engine and drivetrain in the 2003-Up Super Duties and Excursions. No gas engine discussion allowed except on transmissions and drivetrain that pertain to all models. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 6.0L Power Stroke engine.

 
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 12-03-2018, 09:08 PM Thread Starter
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'2003 6.0L no start hot

Hello I have a 2003 6.0 that I had recently had problems with a no start hot situation. That ended up being passenger side injector and nipple cup o rings and started everytime for about 3 months. Recently I hauled a 10k pound camper 2 hours and ran great all the way there. Went on another 30 minute trip unloaded from there and when I went inside a visitor center I shut it off and came back out and I went to crank and noticed it took a little longer. After that we went out to eat and went inside once again and when I came back out it started up but was a little sluggish on startup. Slowly built rpms compared to the fire right up that it usually does. After that we went to Walmart and when I came back out it failed to start at all. Cranked and cranked a couple of times with nothing so I went and used a little either to get us back to camp and ran fine with no issues once started. No loss of power or stutter. Anyone else had issues like this? Iím leaning toward the driver side now has blown seals on the oil rail. The HPOP is fairly new and the discharge tube has new o rings. New ipr as well
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 12-04-2018, 12:11 AM
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You should check your battery cable connections. And possibly get your starter checked out. You mentioned slowly building RPMs, which could be caused by a bad starter sensitive to heat.

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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 12-04-2018, 01:29 AM Thread Starter
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It acted as if it slowly build oil pressure. Iíve tried shutting off as soon as I got home oil temp was about 197 and I turned the key right back on and try to start and all it does is crank and crank
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 12-04-2018, 01:35 AM
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In that case, you likely have blown out injector o-rings. The leak likely isn't bad enough when cold to affect starting, but when hot, the oil is thinner and can get thru the leak quicker, causing HP oil pressure to stay below the pressure needed to start.

The starter though should crank at speed right from the start, not build speed, especially if HP oil pressure doesn't increase.

You should really get it on a scan tool that will monitor RPM, HP oil pressure, IPR duty cycle and injector pulse width.

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Last edited by klhansen; 12-04-2018 at 01:39 AM.
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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 12-04-2018, 06:47 AM
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First thing to do is get your batteries charged and individually load tested. Slowly building rpms isn't a sign of HPO leaks. Remember you need 100 rpm for the FICM to issue a fueling command and functionally you need 150 rpm to start.

I really haven't seen anything posted yet that points out another high pressure oil pressure issue for you..

Before you go that direction, get a monitoring device that reports engine parameters and monitor the ICP volts and pressure and the IPR duty cycle.

Post that cranking data as well as the following:
cranking rpm
FICM VPower
FICMLPower
FICMMPower

Download ForScan to your smart phone and buy the appropriate ELM327 adapter (bluetooth fr Android and WiFi for iOs). TirquePro is good also, but it doesn't read all the codes. ForScan is the best phone App for code reading.

Otherwise you will just guess and waste money.

Mark
06 F250 CC SB FX4 Lariat;ARP studs;OEM gaskets;Banks exhaust;DynaTrac Ball joints;Coolant filter;High-Idle mod;RACCCV6000;JimmiJammers;Ravelco;SynchroMax xfer case;Fumoto valve;Harpooned;CPOhighwayProducts toolbox;tracrac;Fox Weatherboots;Wet Okole Seat Covers;BriteBox;Re-flashed;Quadzilla Recon XZT Fuel Press;Blue FPR spring;DashDAQ;PHP FICM;RiffRaff boots;DCPower270A XP;PowerInverter;Rancho7000's;BPD EGR cooler;One-piece HPOP fitting;D-plugs&standpipes;BPD Billet WaterPump;SCT w/ Matts SRL+;ELC Ultra;DuraTracs

Last edited by bismic; 12-04-2018 at 06:56 AM.
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 12-04-2018, 01:44 PM Thread Starter
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I should have made it more clear. Starter spins 300+ rpms right off the bat but when it started it slowly ramped rpms. Have brand new ficm at 58v but when cranking logic power drops to 10v and cannot see accurate numbers for icp ipr and pulse width since when I plug my icp in it reads 1300 psi with the truck not even cranking
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 12-04-2018, 03:00 PM
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Getting 1300 psig when not even cranking isn't a problem with a leak in the HPO system.

10v and below is indicative of an electrical system issue.

Mark
06 F250 CC SB FX4 Lariat;ARP studs;OEM gaskets;Banks exhaust;DynaTrac Ball joints;Coolant filter;High-Idle mod;RACCCV6000;JimmiJammers;Ravelco;SynchroMax xfer case;Fumoto valve;Harpooned;CPOhighwayProducts toolbox;tracrac;Fox Weatherboots;Wet Okole Seat Covers;BriteBox;Re-flashed;Quadzilla Recon XZT Fuel Press;Blue FPR spring;DashDAQ;PHP FICM;RiffRaff boots;DCPower270A XP;PowerInverter;Rancho7000's;BPD EGR cooler;One-piece HPOP fitting;D-plugs&standpipes;BPD Billet WaterPump;SCT w/ Matts SRL+;ELC Ultra;DuraTracs
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 12-04-2018, 07:03 PM Thread Starter
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Started fine up until it got harder. Always had 10v when cranking since I put it in. Now has developed the indicative choppy idle like one injector is not hitting. I somehow wire the new pigtail wrong even though I followed the same wires as the old one. When I put it in it was running and plugged it in after started it died when I plugged it back in and would rev up when trying to restart then die
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 12-04-2018, 10:40 PM
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Well, good luck with it. Please post the solution when you solve it.

Mark
06 F250 CC SB FX4 Lariat;ARP studs;OEM gaskets;Banks exhaust;DynaTrac Ball joints;Coolant filter;High-Idle mod;RACCCV6000;JimmiJammers;Ravelco;SynchroMax xfer case;Fumoto valve;Harpooned;CPOhighwayProducts toolbox;tracrac;Fox Weatherboots;Wet Okole Seat Covers;BriteBox;Re-flashed;Quadzilla Recon XZT Fuel Press;Blue FPR spring;DashDAQ;PHP FICM;RiffRaff boots;DCPower270A XP;PowerInverter;Rancho7000's;BPD EGR cooler;One-piece HPOP fitting;D-plugs&standpipes;BPD Billet WaterPump;SCT w/ Matts SRL+;ELC Ultra;DuraTracs
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 12-05-2018, 06:27 PM Thread Starter
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Will do. Gonna leak test it here in the next couple days
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post #11 of 12 (permalink) Old 12-06-2018, 07:30 PM Thread Starter
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Okay so hereís the scoop. Did the leak test and turns out both passenger side and driver side leak under the valve covers. Drivers side is significantly worse. What would have cause the passenger side to blow out again?
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post #12 of 12 (permalink) Old 12-08-2018, 05:21 AM Thread Starter
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Drivers side injector o rings. 3 of 4 were eaten up. Replaced them and nipple cup o rings and fires right up when hot once again.
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