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2004 f250 6.0

4K views 41 replies 7 participants last post by  Jaxonvankoevering 
#1 ·
I was driving around yesterday and I stopped at a store for 15 min and shut my truck off and came back out and fired it up and it kinda had a shutter and idle and driving to my house. Once I got home I shut the truck off and tried firing it back up and it would just crank and wouldn’t run... it was running just fine all day. KOEO I have 12.25 battery volts, ICP 0psi, FICM ignition 12v, FICM internal volts 47.50, ICP duty cycle is .14...... now when I crank it over I’m getting 10.87 battery bolts (it was more but I was cranking a lot before I recorded my gauges), ICP 725 psi, FICM ignition it 11.50, FICM internal is 47-47.50, ICP dury cycle is .32.... if you guys could point me in the right direction that would be awesome I’m thinking FICM but not sure. Thanks again you guys are awesome
 
#2 ·
It has to be leak tested to see if there is a high pressure oil system leak and also to be sure no oil filter collapse. If that is OK then HPOP is very suspect. I have had several HPOP on the 1st gen swashplate pump trucks (2003-2004 F, 2003-2005 Excursion) can be fine and then loose a pump piston and quickly fail to run again and being shut down.
Do you know if your HPOP has ever been changed or how long since it was changed?
 
#4 ·
Getting cam/crank sync and FICM sync?
Cranking rpm's?
Cranking ICP volts?
 
#7 ·
Not sure if SCT will give you sync numbers (they all need to be at 1). The ICP volts should be around 1.2 volts, but must be AT LEAST 0.8 to give you the required minimumn of 500 psig.

I would highly recommend downloading the ForScan Lite program to your smart phone and getting an OBDII adapter (either WiFi or BlueTooth). I like the BAFX brand of adapter - they seem to work well.

ForScan can get all the parameters AND it is a very good code reader. The software is free unless you get the add-free version which can be around $10. The adapter is $30 to $35.
 
#8 ·
Not sure if SCT will give you sync numbers (they all need to be at 1). The ICP volts should be around 1.2 volts, but must be AT LEAST 0.8 to give you the required minimumn of 500 psig.

I would highly recommend downloading the ForScan Lite program to your smart phone and getting an OBDII adapter (either WiFi or BlueTooth). I like the BAFX brand of adapter - they seem to work well.

ForScan can get all the parameters AND it is a very good code reader. The software is free

I get 257 psi of injecor pressure when I unplug my ipr is that normal?
 
#9 ·
Yes - because all you have closing it is a spring. The actuator fails to the open position (ie dumping oil to the crankcase) when it is unplugged.

Why would you want to unplug it?

Unplugging the ICP sensor is a valid test for trying to start, but not the IPR ...........
 
#11 · (Edited)
Zero rpm means that you aren't cranking. Cranking means that the crank shaft and cam shaft are being turned (at some rpm).

If you are actually hearing the engine turning over (rotating) w/ the starter, and you don't have an rpm reading, then you are likely to have an issue with the crankshaft sensor.
 
#17 · (Edited)
An instrument cluster issue that was simply a lack of rpm indication wouldn't, but 125-150 rpm when cranking would. You need a steady 150+ rpm to start.

We really need to see cam/crank sync and FICM sync when cranking, but first you must get it over 150 rpm --- RELIABLY
 
#18 ·
An instrument cluster issue wouldn't, but 125-150 rpm when cranking would. You need a steady 150+ rpm to start.

We really need to see cam/crank sync and FICM sync when cranking, but first you must get it over 150 rpm --- RELIABLY
I got a buddie with a snap on scan tool coming to take a look at that tommarow thank you for your time it’s super helpful
 
#19 · (Edited)
Based on the "extra parts" you described being found in the secondary fuel filter housing, I have to say that you need to use ONLY FORD fuel filters and oil filter (and you might already be, but what you described often is a result of poor fitting aftermarket filters). When you have an issue that is hard to troubleshoot, get the important things right - the right filters are a basic necessity. While some aftermarket filters might work, Ford ones guarantee it and let you move on to other things to investigate.

A Ford secondary fuel filter is designed to purge the air out. Yours may not be doing that.
 
#22 ·
So I replaced my crank sensor in my 6.0 and I’m still getting a no start, I have good injector pressure. Could it be IPR valve? I just got the oil cooler replaced. I’m thinking some stuff got caught in the screen? The first picture is key on and second picture of cranking over.. anything you guys notice out of the ordinary?
 

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#23 · (Edited)
Since the PCM was seeing rpms, then the crank sensor was sure to be working.

Don't replace the IPR at this point. Yes the duty cycle command is a little high, but you don't have enough information. It appears that you don't have an issue w/ the ICP pressure at 45% IPR, but it could be a bad ICP sensor, which is in turn prompting the PCM to assume an ICP pressure.

You need to also post (also requested these in post #4) Cranking data is what is needed:
ICP volts
cam/crank sync
FICM sync
Fuel (Injector) Pulse width ... I added this one, it is checking that the FICM is issuing a fueling command

Continue to post:
ICP pressure, psi
IPR % duty cycle
 
#34 · (Edited)
Since the PCM was seeing rpms, then the crank sensor was sure to be working.

Don't replace the IPR at this point. Yes the duty cycle command is a little high, but you don't have enough information. It appears that you don't have an issue w/ the ICP pressure at 45% IPR, but it could be a bad ICP sensor, which is in turn prompting the PCM to assume an ICP pressure.

You need to also post (also requested these in post #4) Cranking data is what is needed:
ICP volts
cam/crank sync
FICM sync
Fuel (Injector) Pulse width ... I added this one, it is checking that the FICM is issuing a fueling command

Continue to post:
ICP pressure, psi
IPR % duty cycle

You are just throwing parts at it.

I didn't see where you posted the data I requested earlier.

Also, ForScan Lite might pull up a code that could give you a clue, but probably the snapon scanner got them all.

IMO you probably have multiple injector issues. If so, there should be injector codes. As posted earlier (by hammer30) - checking fuel pressure wouldn't be a bad idea.
 
#24 ·
Also, keep your battery voltage up, or you will end up needing to have the FICM repaired.
 
#26 ·
Dorman sensors have failed within days for me. I won't use them.
 
#27 ·
Unplug the ICP and see what happens when you crank.
 
#29 ·
yes, OEM on sensors.
 
#30 ·
although the described symptoms may not indicate fuel pressure, I think it wouldn't hurt to verify your fuel pressure at the filter housing it should be above 40psi. you can look at a utube on how to connect a mechanical gage.
 
#31 · (Edited)
Always a good idea!!!! Nice post! Personally I think every 6.0L owner should have a fuel pressure gauge, it is so important for the expensive injectors.

Even if you don't want to take the time to hook up a gauge, it is money well spent to take it in and have the test done at a dealership (IMO anyway)! They simulate WOT conditions, so you know what the worst case would be.
 
#32 ·
Thanks guys, I got my friends snap on scanner and took car of every code on there , crankshaft position sensor, crankshaft sensor pigtail (Bare wires), can sensor pigtail (Bare wires), now I can start it on starting fluid and it will run on fuel fine but has a bad misfire about half of the cylinders... I think half of the ficm failed
 
#33 ·
I have a no start on my 6.0 I’m about to rip my hair out... I’ve replaced crank sensor pigtail, crank sensor, cam sensor pig tail, ipr, ICP, FICM.. it won’t start until I spray a little starter fluid in it then it will take off and run awesome for like 5 min then start bucking and misfire...all pressures and temp and volts are right on...
 
#36 · (Edited)
I replaced whatever parts my code reader put out, each time I put in a new one another code popped up. And my pigtails were on there way out anyway they had bare wires. But I’m just gonna bring it in because it’s starting to get over my head. Thanks for your time and advise
Unfortunately it doesn't really work that way.

For example cam and crank codes can come from stall events or from crank-no-starts, and not the sensor itself. That is why I ask for data, to help wade through the information. It isn't easy sometimes.

ICP VOLTS are important so that we can make sure that the PCM is actually using the ICP sensor signal. Sometimes it "assumes" a value and you get a false ICP pressure. This can mask an issue in the high pressure oil system.

The data I asked for is really not hard to get. Determining where the source of the problem is takes "stepping back" and looking at all of the information. Injector problems can be particularly hard to identify (and they are expensive(, and it takes quite a bit of testing before confirming that that $2k has to be spent. As stated SEVERAL times, low fuel pressure can be the root cause of injector failure. Who wants to replace injectors, only to have to do it again in 5k or 10k miles.

Definitely bare wires should be fixed. That said, the wires to the cam and crank sensors are shielded wires. You can't just splice in new wire without also replacing the shielding.

If you don't stick w/ OEM sensors, then you MIGHT make troubleshooting harder, I have seen many aftermarket sensors be bad out of the box. It certainly isn't every one of them, but the percentage is high enough to be a likely problem for anyone going that direction.

Also, the FICM is a weak component, but simply replacing (even w/ an OEM rebuild) is throwing money away. There are a few rebuilders who actually turn out a product that will last. That said, the main causes for FICMs are weak alternators or bad batteries.

When you take it in, make sure you find a shop w/ a good reputation. The 6.0L is a favorite of unscrupulous shops because of its reputation.
 
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