2004 f250 6.0 - Page 3 - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com
6.0L Power Stroke Engine and Drivetrain Discussion of the 6.0L Power Stroke diesel engine and drivetrain in the 2003-Up Super Duties and Excursions. No gas engine discussion allowed except on transmissions and drivetrain that pertain to all models. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 6.0L Power Stroke engine.

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post #31 of 42 (permalink) Old 04-13-2019, 09:27 AM
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Originally Posted by hammer30 View Post
although the described symptoms may not indicate fuel pressure, I think it wouldn't hurt to verify your fuel pressure at the filter housing it should be above 40psi. you can look at a utube on how to connect a mechanical gage.
Always a good idea!!!! Nice post! Personally I think every 6.0L owner should have a fuel pressure gauge, it is so important for the expensive injectors.

Even if you don't want to take the time to hook up a gauge, it is money well spent to take it in and have the test done at a dealership (IMO anyway)! They simulate WOT conditions, so you know what the worst case would be.

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Last edited by bismic; 04-13-2019 at 09:30 AM.
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post #32 of 42 (permalink) Old 04-14-2019, 07:34 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks guys, I got my friends snap on scanner and took car of every code on there , crankshaft position sensor, crankshaft sensor pigtail (Bare wires), can sensor pigtail (Bare wires), now I can start it on starting fluid and it will run on fuel fine but has a bad misfire about half of the cylinders... I think half of the ficm failed
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post #33 of 42 (permalink) Old 04-15-2019, 05:37 PM Thread Starter
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I have a no start on my 6.0 I’m about to rip my hair out... I’ve replaced crank sensor pigtail, crank sensor, cam sensor pig tail, ipr, ICP, FICM.. it won’t start until I spray a little starter fluid in it then it will take off and run awesome for like 5 min then start bucking and misfire...all pressures and temp and volts are right on...
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post #34 of 42 (permalink) Old 04-15-2019, 09:06 PM
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Originally Posted by bismic View Post
Since the PCM was seeing rpms, then the crank sensor was sure to be working.

Don't replace the IPR at this point. Yes the duty cycle command is a little high, but you don't have enough information. It appears that you don't have an issue w/ the ICP pressure at 45% IPR, but it could be a bad ICP sensor, which is in turn prompting the PCM to assume an ICP pressure.

You need to also post (also requested these in post #4) Cranking data is what is needed:
ICP volts
cam/crank sync
FICM sync
Fuel (Injector) Pulse width ... I added this one, it is checking that the FICM is issuing a fueling command

Continue to post:
ICP pressure, psi
IPR % duty cycle

You are just throwing parts at it.

I didn't see where you posted the data I requested earlier.

Also, ForScan Lite might pull up a code that could give you a clue, but probably the snapon scanner got them all.

IMO you probably have multiple injector issues. If so, there should be injector codes. As posted earlier (by hammer30) - checking fuel pressure wouldn't be a bad idea.

Mark
06 F250 CC SB FX4 Lariat;ARP studs;OEM gaskets;Banks exhaust;DynaTrac Ball joints;Coolant filter;High-Idle mod;RACCCV6000;JimmiJammers;Ravelco;SynchroMax xfer case;Fumoto valve;Harpooned;CPOhighwayProducts toolbox;tracrac;Fox Weatherboots;Wet Okole Seat Covers;BriteBox;Re-flashed;Quadzilla Recon XZT Fuel Press;Blue FPR spring;DashDAQ;PHP FICM;RiffRaff boots;DCPower270A XP;PowerInverter;Rancho7000's;BPD EGR cooler;One-piece HPOP fitting;D-plugs&standpipes;BPD Billet WaterPump;SCT w/ Matts SRL+;ELC Ultra;DuraTracs

Last edited by bismic; 04-15-2019 at 09:11 PM.
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post #35 of 42 (permalink) Old 04-16-2019, 05:14 AM Thread Starter
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I replaced whatever parts my code reader put out, each time I put in a new one another code popped up. And my pigtails were on there way out anyway they had bare wires. But I’m just gonna bring it in because it’s starting to get over my head. Thanks for your time and advise
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post #36 of 42 (permalink) Old 04-16-2019, 05:52 AM
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I replaced whatever parts my code reader put out, each time I put in a new one another code popped up. And my pigtails were on there way out anyway they had bare wires. But I’m just gonna bring it in because it’s starting to get over my head. Thanks for your time and advise
Unfortunately it doesn't really work that way.

For example cam and crank codes can come from stall events or from crank-no-starts, and not the sensor itself. That is why I ask for data, to help wade through the information. It isn't easy sometimes.

ICP VOLTS are important so that we can make sure that the PCM is actually using the ICP sensor signal. Sometimes it "assumes" a value and you get a false ICP pressure. This can mask an issue in the high pressure oil system.

The data I asked for is really not hard to get. Determining where the source of the problem is takes "stepping back" and looking at all of the information. Injector problems can be particularly hard to identify (and they are expensive(, and it takes quite a bit of testing before confirming that that $2k has to be spent. As stated SEVERAL times, low fuel pressure can be the root cause of injector failure. Who wants to replace injectors, only to have to do it again in 5k or 10k miles.

Definitely bare wires should be fixed. That said, the wires to the cam and crank sensors are shielded wires. You can't just splice in new wire without also replacing the shielding.

If you don't stick w/ OEM sensors, then you MIGHT make troubleshooting harder, I have seen many aftermarket sensors be bad out of the box. It certainly isn't every one of them, but the percentage is high enough to be a likely problem for anyone going that direction.

Also, the FICM is a weak component, but simply replacing (even w/ an OEM rebuild) is throwing money away. There are a few rebuilders who actually turn out a product that will last. That said, the main causes for FICMs are weak alternators or bad batteries.

When you take it in, make sure you find a shop w/ a good reputation. The 6.0L is a favorite of unscrupulous shops because of its reputation.

Mark
06 F250 CC SB FX4 Lariat;ARP studs;OEM gaskets;Banks exhaust;DynaTrac Ball joints;Coolant filter;High-Idle mod;RACCCV6000;JimmiJammers;Ravelco;SynchroMax xfer case;Fumoto valve;Harpooned;CPOhighwayProducts toolbox;tracrac;Fox Weatherboots;Wet Okole Seat Covers;BriteBox;Re-flashed;Quadzilla Recon XZT Fuel Press;Blue FPR spring;DashDAQ;PHP FICM;RiffRaff boots;DCPower270A XP;PowerInverter;Rancho7000's;BPD EGR cooler;One-piece HPOP fitting;D-plugs&standpipes;BPD Billet WaterPump;SCT w/ Matts SRL+;ELC Ultra;DuraTracs

Last edited by bismic; 04-16-2019 at 06:24 AM.
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post #37 of 42 (permalink) Old 04-17-2019, 05:13 AM Thread Starter
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All good info👍🏻 I’m new to the whole diesel industry so this all all new info I gain on this site. Thanks again for your time bismic
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post #38 of 42 (permalink) Old 04-17-2019, 11:30 AM
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When you take it in, make sure you find a shop w/ a good reputation. The 6.0L is a favorite of unscrupulous shops because of its reputation.

It is my experience, that looks like the case, but the reality is they simply have no idea how these engine work or *** they are doing. Yes, do consider reputation when selecting a dealer or a private shop.


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post #39 of 42 (permalink) Old 04-17-2019, 02:49 PM
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When you take it in, make sure you find a shop w/ a good reputation. The 6.0L is a favorite of unscrupulous shops because of its reputation.

I think the genuinely good guys know each other. When I needed help a long way from home last summer my son put me with a buddy who knows Dodge/Cummins inside out and he put me with an excellent Ford guy right next door to me. My point being that you don't need to just look for a really good Ford guy - if you can find a well respected GM or Dodge guy he's probably going to know the Ford guy you're looking for. As it turned out the guy I found said he preferred to work on Chevvies but he made more money on Fords. He had a lot of Chevs in the yard so he made some money off them too.

2006 F250 6.0 4x4
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post #40 of 42 (permalink) Old 04-17-2019, 08:19 PM
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It is my experience, that looks like the case, but the reality is they simply have no idea how these engine work or *** they are doing. Yes, do consider reputation when selecting a dealer or a private shop.
Could very well be, but a shop working on engines that they don't know very well seems to be very close "second" to unscrupulous.
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post #41 of 42 (permalink) Old 04-18-2019, 08:03 AM
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I know more incompetent techs than dishonest ones. Regardless, the end result is usually the same.
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post #42 of 42 (permalink) Old 04-25-2019, 10:54 AM Thread Starter
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Just got the truck back from the shop. Turns out I had one strong injector and the other 7 were very weak. So those got replaced and a intercooler boot and the truck runs better than it ever has before. Thanks for all your guys help!
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