Low voltage operation can kill the FICM.
Your injector code could be from a bad injector, a bad FICM, bad wiring, low battery voltage, poor fuel delivery, low pressure in the high pressure oil system, etc.
You need to start troubleshooting.
IMO you ALWAYS address voltage issues FIRST.
Also, when were fuel filters last changed? Same w/ oil filters, and what oil are you using?
You also need more than 45 psig fuel pressure or you will damage injectors. Problem is, you need to add on a fuel pressure sensor AND gauge to get that information. You could also take it in to Ford and have them test fuel pressure.
We need some cranking data:
FICM MPower volts
FICM LPower volts
FICM VPower volts
ICP pressure, psia
IPR % duty cycle
Get us the same data at cold and hot idle.
As far as I can tell, you didn't provide information regarding the questions/text in bold above.
Your ICP volts dropping to .85 sounds suspect, The ICP data you posted doesn't match the voltage, the IPR data is very important. Still can't rule out issues in the high pressure oil system.
If you even have injector issues, there are many ways they fail. Spool valves stick, o-rings leak, plungers get damaged and fail, tips fall off, etc,
There is an Archoil product (oil additive) that does help stiction, if that is your issue. It is not always 100%, but many people see benefit. The most benefit is from fresh 5W40 oil. 15W40 oil is too thick in temps in the 30s and below. Who knows what will help over the internet. Answer the oil questions and maybe it will lead you to an answer on the additive question.
In the past, people have posted about polishing spool valves. Some said it worked, but it was a little risky - a few places it could go wrong and ruin the injector. People pretty much quit trying that. If it is a leak in an o-ring, then that can be rebuilt, but that is about it.
Lots of videos on replacing injectors. The difficulty depends on your skills. Study up though, there are places that (if not done correctly) could bite you.
Cleaning the cups, blowing out the hold-down bolt holes, always installing new copper washers, proper torque (calibrated torque wrench), not dropping parts into the engine, etc.
IMO you still need to be installing a fuel pressure gauge or have it tested
. If fuel pressure is low, then you may need a new regulator spring (an upgraded one is now provided by Ford), or the pump is weak, or you have plugged filters or suction tube, a broken suction tube vacuum relief plug, an erroneous fuel level sending unit, etc. Lots to check. You could also check to see if you have bubbles of air in the fuel system. With the secondary fuel filter out, have someone turn the key on while you watch for bubbles when filling (also pay attention to the fill rate, it should be quick if the pump is strong and the flow isn't restricted). Be ready to have the key turned off quickly so not to make a fuel mess in the engine compartment. There is also a test to look for bubbles when cranking. This will show if an injector has mechanically failed and is allowing compression gas to back flow into the fuel lines (and also back pressure the fuel pump to restrict flow). Look up the youtube videos on that test. Be sure to crank with the alternator solenoid wire (by the vacuum pump and climate control blower) jumpered to the passenger battery. This method doesn't activate the glow plugs and is much easier on the alternator, batteries, and FICM.
As I said, I always solve voltage issues FIRST, but the SECOND thing is to fully inspect the fuel and oil systems. That includes pulling the filters to look at them.
We don't even know right now how old the filters are or what oil you are using.