2005 6.0 no start - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com
6.0L Power Stroke Engine and Drivetrain Discussion of the 6.0L Power Stroke diesel engine and drivetrain in the 2003-Up Super Duties and Excursions. No gas engine discussion allowed except on transmissions and drivetrain that pertain to all models. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 6.0L Power Stroke engine.

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post #1 of 41 (permalink) Old 04-16-2019, 02:52 PM Thread Starter
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2005 6.0 no start

Hi everyone, I'm new here. I recently upgraded to a f450 4x4 with manual trans. Had a '97 7.3 since it was new but unfortunately the NY salt finally killed the body. So I'm here in FL for the winter and bought this truck in good shape ( no rust) with 300k on it. During test drive and inspection the check engine light was on and some what under powered. I noticed when checking over the motor the boot on the hot side of turbo had a hole in it which would explain the low power. The owner said it had been get deleted and studded is why the engine light was on. I later also discovered the oil gauge wasn't working and could see oil coming out of the center of the oil pressure switch. So when I got it to my place I decided to change all the filters and oil, a new oil pressure sensor and both boots on the hot side of the turbo. When I had the boots off the turbo noticed play in the turbo ( enough so the blades were almost hitting the housing) so I rebuilt it. After I changed the filters and oil sensor but before I rebuilt the turbo and boots, I did start and run the motor for about 15 minutes and it ran fine other than the bad boot still low power. After rebuilding the turbo and new boots it wouldn't start. Upon checking things over I see that the IPR is unplugged. I finally get my hand down in there and find the pigtail is all brittle and fell apart. I put in a new IPR and pigtail not paying attention what way the wires went in relation to the plug. It wouldn't start so I switched the wires and still no start. Could I have fried something in the PCM or FICM? Is there a fuse for the IPR? At my wits end here and would greatly appreciate any help.
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post #2 of 41 (permalink) Old 04-17-2019, 08:01 AM
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You need to be able to monitor FICM sync, FICM voltage, IPR duty cycle, ICP voltage and ICP (injector pressure) while cranking to reliably diagnose a crank no start. The cheapest way to do that is with Forscan and an OBD adapter. I prefer to do it on a computer but I suspect doing it on a phone is even easier and maybe cheaper (the software is free but you need to buy the OBD adapter). Read about it here: https://forscan.org/ There's nothing magic about Forscan, its what I use but there are other options. Regardless, until you can read those 5 critical PIDs while cranking everything is just a guess.

2006 F250 6.0 4x4

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post #3 of 41 (permalink) Old 04-17-2019, 10:27 AM Thread Starter
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Thank you. I downloaded the forscan to my phone last night the adapter should be here this afternoon. I hope to have stats then. Thank you all for so much for the help, I have gathered a ton of info from this forum just doing some searches in the few days I've been on here.
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post #4 of 41 (permalink) Old 04-18-2019, 10:57 AM Thread Starter
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Sorry for the delay, the batteries seemed weak so went and got two new ones. Here is what I got from the forscan while cranking: ficm sync - yes
Ficm volts - 49.0
Icp volts - .30
Icp psi - 49.9
Ipr % - 14.84
Shouldn't the icp pressure be 500 psi is the cup bad or the new IPR cold I have fried th ipr wiring it wrong?
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post #5 of 41 (permalink) Old 04-18-2019, 11:12 AM
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The IPR % is a command. It has nothing to do with the IPR valve position itself.

Your first issue to deal with is that you have low ICP pressure. I have no idea what you are asking about "is the cup bad".

What rpm's are you cranking at?
Does the dash oil pressure gauge come up when cranking?
What is the battery voltage and what is the FICM Logic voltage (LPower)when you are cranking?
What is your vreference voltage (5 volt reference circuit)?
Are you sure you are getting fuel to the secondary fuel filter (KOEO)?

Mark
06 F250 CC SB FX4 Lariat;ARP studs;OEM gaskets;Banks exhaust;DynaTrac Ball joints;Coolant filter;High-Idle mod;RACCCV6000;JimmiJammers;Ravelco;SynchroMax xfer case;Fumoto valve;Harpooned;CPOhighwayProducts toolbox;tracrac;Fox Weatherboots;Wet Okole Seat Covers;BriteBox;Re-flashed;Quadzilla Recon XZT Fuel Press;Blue FPR spring;DashDAQ;PHP FICM;RiffRaff boots;DCPower270A XP;PowerInverter;Rancho7000's;BPD EGR cooler;One-piece HPOP fitting;D-plugs&standpipes;BPD Billet WaterPump;SCT w/ Matts SRL+;ELC Ultra;DuraTracs
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post #6 of 41 (permalink) Old 04-18-2019, 02:29 PM Thread Starter
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I got 2 new batteries 12.7 volts fuel pump fills bowl quick about 2 sec. Here's the readings while cranking :
Ficm lpwr - 11.5 volts
Ficm vpwr - 11.5 volts
Ficm mpwr - 48.5
Ficm sync - yes
Ipr - 84%
Rpm - 152
Icp volts - .58
Icp pressure - 329
Vreference - 5 volts
Oil pressure gauge goes to about halfway and the tach is working.
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post #7 of 41 (permalink) Old 04-18-2019, 02:51 PM Thread Starter
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In the earlier post I meant the icp not cup, darn auto correct.
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post #8 of 41 (permalink) Old 04-18-2019, 02:55 PM
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You definitely have an ICP issue.

I would say it is a real issue with low pressure though. The voltage and the pressure reading correspond.

The next step is an air test - I would recommend doing it through the IPR port. You need a special fitting for that, but it isn't very expensive. Best to do the air test w/ the valve covers off IMO.

You can also test the IPR when you remove it (and inspect it for damage and debris).

Mark
06 F250 CC SB FX4 Lariat;ARP studs;OEM gaskets;Banks exhaust;DynaTrac Ball joints;Coolant filter;High-Idle mod;RACCCV6000;JimmiJammers;Ravelco;SynchroMax xfer case;Fumoto valve;Harpooned;CPOhighwayProducts toolbox;tracrac;Fox Weatherboots;Wet Okole Seat Covers;BriteBox;Re-flashed;Quadzilla Recon XZT Fuel Press;Blue FPR spring;DashDAQ;PHP FICM;RiffRaff boots;DCPower270A XP;PowerInverter;Rancho7000's;BPD EGR cooler;One-piece HPOP fitting;D-plugs&standpipes;BPD Billet WaterPump;SCT w/ Matts SRL+;ELC Ultra;DuraTracs
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post #9 of 41 (permalink) Old 04-18-2019, 03:35 PM
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Quote:
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The next step is an air test - I would recommend doing it through the IPR port. You need a special fitting for that, but it isn't very expensive. Best to do the air test w/ the valve covers off IMO.



That's the fitting he is referring to on Amazon in Canada. At the same time I bought this one:



The IPR fitting is a bit of a prick to get at - the other one is slightly easier to use but with correspondingly slightly inferior information generated. I bought them both because they were cheap and I ended up using both because I was stubborn.



(edit: not sure why the images aren't showing up but the links work for me)

2006 F250 6.0 4x4
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post #10 of 41 (permalink) Old 04-18-2019, 03:57 PM
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Getting the IPR out is pretty easy w/ the air filter and intake tube, degas bottle, and FICM removed. Might sound like a lot of work, but it really isn't. It can be done w/ less removed, personal preference really.

Thanks for posting the links.

Mark
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post #11 of 41 (permalink) Old 04-18-2019, 04:53 PM Thread Starter
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I installed a brand new IPR when I first had the no start because the pigtail was bad and still unsure if it's wired right, could the new IPR be bad? Sorry if I have some dumb questions I'm good at mechanics but not good on this electronic stuff.
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post #12 of 41 (permalink) Old 04-18-2019, 05:40 PM
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I guess the IPR could be bad. Take it out and put power to it. It is an open/closed valve so you can test it w/ 12v. You can then check your wiring.

Mark
06 F250 CC SB FX4 Lariat;ARP studs;OEM gaskets;Banks exhaust;DynaTrac Ball joints;Coolant filter;High-Idle mod;RACCCV6000;JimmiJammers;Ravelco;SynchroMax xfer case;Fumoto valve;Harpooned;CPOhighwayProducts toolbox;tracrac;Fox Weatherboots;Wet Okole Seat Covers;BriteBox;Re-flashed;Quadzilla Recon XZT Fuel Press;Blue FPR spring;DashDAQ;PHP FICM;RiffRaff boots;DCPower270A XP;PowerInverter;Rancho7000's;BPD EGR cooler;One-piece HPOP fitting;D-plugs&standpipes;BPD Billet WaterPump;SCT w/ Matts SRL+;ELC Ultra;DuraTracs
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post #13 of 41 (permalink) Old 04-18-2019, 06:34 PM Thread Starter
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So if the wiring is backwards it won't operate right?
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post #14 of 41 (permalink) Old 04-18-2019, 06:46 PM
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So if the wiring is backwards it won't operate right?
Somebody wiser than me will provide the right answer but I don't see how it matters which wire goes where. Its just a solenoid. It closes under power and opens without power. The % you see is just a duty cycle so 50% means 50% of the time its closed. ICBW about the wiring but I wouldn't sweat it until someone wiser than me tell you to.

Bismic is working a troubleshooting sequence with you so I'll just watch but your low IPR number bothers me. A failed IPR would be more likely with a high IPR%, in my opinion.

2006 F250 6.0 4x4

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post #15 of 41 (permalink) Old 04-18-2019, 07:20 PM
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The IPR valve should operate in a direction that is opposite mode to that which the PCM intends if the wires were reversed.

I agree, the low duty cycle is bothersome. I really don't know how the PCM would perceive the data with a valve wired in reverse. It would have no way of knowing it was wired wrong.

You keep asking about it being wired wrong - the only way to know is to check. If it actually is wired wrong, it definitely needs to be corrected.

Mark
06 F250 CC SB FX4 Lariat;ARP studs;OEM gaskets;Banks exhaust;DynaTrac Ball joints;Coolant filter;High-Idle mod;RACCCV6000;JimmiJammers;Ravelco;SynchroMax xfer case;Fumoto valve;Harpooned;CPOhighwayProducts toolbox;tracrac;Fox Weatherboots;Wet Okole Seat Covers;BriteBox;Re-flashed;Quadzilla Recon XZT Fuel Press;Blue FPR spring;DashDAQ;PHP FICM;RiffRaff boots;DCPower270A XP;PowerInverter;Rancho7000's;BPD EGR cooler;One-piece HPOP fitting;D-plugs&standpipes;BPD Billet WaterPump;SCT w/ Matts SRL+;ELC Ultra;DuraTracs

Last edited by bismic; 04-18-2019 at 09:16 PM.
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