'2005 F250 6.0L Ficm issue - resolved - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com
6.0L Power Stroke Engine and Drivetrain Discussion of the 6.0L Power Stroke diesel engine and drivetrain in the 2003-Up Super Duties and Excursions. No gas engine discussion allowed except on transmissions and drivetrain that pertain to all models. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 6.0L Power Stroke engine.

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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 10-23-2018, 03:04 PM Thread Starter
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'2005 F250 6.0L Ficm issue - resolved

I wanted to post this. Hopefully it'll help someone with the "rare" issues regarding the 6.0

Background on truck. I bought it new in 2005. I have roughly 225k on it. I used to use it to tow my race trailer. approx 10k lbs. Original Alternator, Ficm, etc.

Apparently I should clean my engine bay #facepalm

So my Ford 6.0 powerstroke left me stranded a couple of weeks ago. Long story short. The voltage regulator and alternator died. Voltage spiked fried the logic board on the Ficm (fuel injection control module). After some research and diagnostics (no real fault codes, pretty standard issue for the 6.0). My Ficm voltage would sit at >45 volts but while cranking would drop to low 30s. Batteries were charged and in good shape.
I spent some time talking to Ed Stefan at FICMRepair.com - FORD Powerstroke 6.0 FICM Repair, PHP Tuning and Truck Parts . He was super helpful not only to get me a new Ficm but help me figure out why it died. Ended up going with a Leece Neville 230 amp alternator. After installing it, I noticed that the the running voltage wasn't what I wanted to see. Ended up making my own upgraded alternator and interconnect cables of some stout 3/0 gauge wire. Another late night project ��

Problem solved.

Also to note: the FICMrepair.com Ficm (still 48v) seemed to drastically help with my injector stiction issue. I may not have to replace a bunch of injectors after all.

Note : FICMrepair.com makes really nice cable kits. That would have saved me a ton of time.

Great customer service from Scott and Ed at FICMrepair.com. The original alternator I ordered didn't come in; in time for me to get it before the weekend. They took the time and effort to reach out to me and coordinate a solution with me. Much appreciated.





This is from before I sent in my Ficm to Ficmrepair.com FMP got into the low 30s while cranking. =NO start


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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 10-24-2018, 11:41 AM
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Great info. Thanks for posting.
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2006 F250 Lariat Supercrew, ESOF 4x4, 18" tires, FX 4, HD Alt., block heater, Integrated Trailer Brake Controller, Upfitters, power rear window, cab lights - delivered 10/25/05

Ford Remote Start; High idle mod; Timbren load levelers, Scangauge II, Blue Spring upgrade, Quick Start 200 amp large frame alternator, 2 batteries January 2010; GPCM replace October 2011; 2 EGR valves; EGR Cooler replaced 12/30/11; Performance Machine & Mfg. coolant filter added 1/2/12; Rotella T6 5W40 oil; turned rotors, replaced brake pads for 1st time 1/7/12 101K miles; GPCM, both subharnesses and all 8 glowplugs replaced 1/5/13 at 118,000 miles; 2 Ford batteries replaced under battery warranty twice, the latest 9/18/2015; FICM power supply board replaced with Dorman board 11/20/13. Coolant flushed and replaced with Prestone ELC 9/27/14. STC fitting 10/19/14; Dummy Plugs 11/8/14; Turbo rebuilt 11/29/14; cold side CAC tube and boots replaced with metal tube 1/24/15; replaced hot side boots 1/30/16.
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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 10-25-2018, 11:23 PM
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I put in a Leece Neville 230 AMPer a few years ago. It has to be one of the best mods/upgrades I've done to the 6.0. Before at idle I would be lucky to get 12V from the Alternator. Now at idle I can get 13.5 volts to immediately start charging those AGMs. I also replaced the Injector harness a few months prior and that has also proved to be well worth it. I monitor FICM Voltage and the new LN 230 amp alternator always keeps it 47 Volts or higher. You'll be happy with the upgrade!!
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2003 F350 Lariat King Ranch 6.0L 4x4 Dually
2005 Lower Center Dash (modified to fit) w/factory Upfitter install
Coolant filter, Fumoto Valves (Oil, L/R block plugs)
Delo ELC, Blue Spring Mod, DashBoss
Leece Neville 230 AMP Alternator, DH AGM Batteries
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 10-26-2018, 10:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pactaz View Post
I put in a Leece Neville 230 AMPer a few years ago. It has to be one of the best mods/upgrades I've done to the 6.0. Before at idle I would be lucky to get 12V from the Alternator. Now at idle I can get 13.5 volts to immediately start charging those AGMs. I also replaced the Injector harness a few months prior and that has also proved to be well worth it. I monitor FICM Voltage and the new LN 230 amp alternator always keeps it 47 Volts or higher. You'll be happy with the upgrade!!
I've seen a lot of posts recently where guys are seeing great results after swapping out the injector and main wire harnesses. It makes sense to do if you are having some hard to diagnose intermittent no-start issues.

Would this be a good idea for someone to do who isnt seeing any issues, just for preventative measures... (analogous to doing the Blue Spring Update, even when you have good fuel pressure with your stock spring?)
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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 10-26-2018, 11:37 AM
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With the amount of hours, miles and age these trucks a racking up I think the harnesses will be a problem at some point with every truck unless it is wrecked first!

2006 F250 Lariat Supercrew, ESOF 4x4, 18" tires, FX 4, HD Alt., block heater, Integrated Trailer Brake Controller, Upfitters, power rear window, cab lights - delivered 10/25/05

Ford Remote Start; High idle mod; Timbren load levelers, Scangauge II, Blue Spring upgrade, Quick Start 200 amp large frame alternator, 2 batteries January 2010; GPCM replace October 2011; 2 EGR valves; EGR Cooler replaced 12/30/11; Performance Machine & Mfg. coolant filter added 1/2/12; Rotella T6 5W40 oil; turned rotors, replaced brake pads for 1st time 1/7/12 101K miles; GPCM, both subharnesses and all 8 glowplugs replaced 1/5/13 at 118,000 miles; 2 Ford batteries replaced under battery warranty twice, the latest 9/18/2015; FICM power supply board replaced with Dorman board 11/20/13. Coolant flushed and replaced with Prestone ELC 9/27/14. STC fitting 10/19/14; Dummy Plugs 11/8/14; Turbo rebuilt 11/29/14; cold side CAC tube and boots replaced with metal tube 1/24/15; replaced hot side boots 1/30/16.
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 10-27-2018, 11:10 AM
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That's true. In truth, i've still got the STC Fitting Upgrade kit in its shrink wrap in my tool box just waiting to be installed. Probably should just do it but I'm also pretty good at procrastination.
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 10-29-2018, 11:27 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pactaz View Post
I put in a Leece Neville 230 AMPer a few years ago. It has to be one of the best mods/upgrades I've done to the 6.0. Before at idle I would be lucky to get 12V from the Alternator. Now at idle I can get 13.5 volts to immediately start charging those AGMs. I also replaced the Injector harness a few months prior and that has also proved to be well worth it. I monitor FICM Voltage and the new LN 230 amp alternator always keeps it 47 Volts or higher. You'll be happy with the upgrade!!
I noticed a improvement in voltage with the new Alternator but I thought it should of been a little better. So that's why I ended up making a new Alternator lead, interconnect lead, and ground. I started to look at the existing grounds and decided to just fix it right.
It hasn't been super cold yet (mid 20s is the coldest) but now when it starts up, voltage is mid 13s while the glow plugs are still going. (note, I do not have the inductive heating program on my Ficm, I'll probably have Ed at Ficm Repair update that and go with the Atlas 40 program). Then jumps up to 14.0-14.2, even with all the accessories on. I don't run my TorquePro app all of the time but have been watching it on cold start ups and random times. I haven't seen the FMP drop below 47.5 volts yet.

I still have a couple of injectors sticking (when cold), I'm probably going to have to bite the bullet and replace them but can you say PROCRASTINATION

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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 10-29-2018, 03:49 PM
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Dan: Try the Archoil oil ad dative. It helped with my stiction within a few days. I wound up replacing all of the injectors last winter, but it helped to get me through to that point. I assume you are using a synthetic oil? I use Rotella T6 and that helped too.

2006 F250 Lariat Supercrew, ESOF 4x4, 18" tires, FX 4, HD Alt., block heater, Integrated Trailer Brake Controller, Upfitters, power rear window, cab lights - delivered 10/25/05

Ford Remote Start; High idle mod; Timbren load levelers, Scangauge II, Blue Spring upgrade, Quick Start 200 amp large frame alternator, 2 batteries January 2010; GPCM replace October 2011; 2 EGR valves; EGR Cooler replaced 12/30/11; Performance Machine & Mfg. coolant filter added 1/2/12; Rotella T6 5W40 oil; turned rotors, replaced brake pads for 1st time 1/7/12 101K miles; GPCM, both subharnesses and all 8 glowplugs replaced 1/5/13 at 118,000 miles; 2 Ford batteries replaced under battery warranty twice, the latest 9/18/2015; FICM power supply board replaced with Dorman board 11/20/13. Coolant flushed and replaced with Prestone ELC 9/27/14. STC fitting 10/19/14; Dummy Plugs 11/8/14; Turbo rebuilt 11/29/14; cold side CAC tube and boots replaced with metal tube 1/24/15; replaced hot side boots 1/30/16.
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 10-30-2018, 12:09 AM
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DanO5150 what app and scanner are you using, and are you happy with it? I have AE with the domestic bundle but it's less than convenient to keep the laptop in my truck.

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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 10-30-2018, 11:54 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ford06 View Post
Dan: Try the Archoil oil ad dative. It helped with my stiction within a few days. I wound up replacing all of the injectors last winter, but it helped to get me through to that point. I assume you are using a synthetic oil? I use Rotella T6 and that helped too.
I've tried Archoil and Hot Shot's. I think Archoil seemed to work a bit better. I'll use one of them again on my next oil change. I use Amsoil synthetic and their EA filter every 10k. As of late, a lot of the issue was the Ficm (before it completely fried and I had Ficm repair redo mine).

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post #11 of 12 (permalink) Old 10-30-2018, 12:01 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by moose11 View Post
DanO5150 what app and scanner are you using, and are you happy with it? I have AE with the domestic bundle but it's less than convenient to keep the laptop in my truck.
I use the Torque Pro app with my Android phone. It works pretty good.

Ron has a pretty good video on setting it up with the PIDs needed etc.


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'08 Yamaha R6
'94 Supra TT
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post #12 of 12 (permalink) Old 11-06-2018, 07:15 PM
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I noticed a improvement in voltage with the new Alternator but I thought it should of been a little better. So that's why I ended up making a new Alternator lead, interconnect lead, and ground. I started to look at the existing grounds and decided to just fix it right.
It hasn't been super cold yet (mid 20s is the coldest) but now when it starts up, voltage is mid 13s while the glow plugs are still going. (note, I do not have the inductive heating program on my Ficm, I'll probably have Ed at Ficm Repair update that and go with the Atlas 40 program). Then jumps up to 14.0-14.2, even with all the accessories on. I don't run my TorquePro app all of the time but have been watching it on cold start ups and random times. I haven't seen the FMP drop below 47.5 volts yet.

I still have a couple of injectors sticking (when cold), I'm probably going to have to bite the bullet and replace them but can you say PROCRASTINATION

DanO, Yea I failed to mention I also added the additional wiring when I put in the Leece Neville 230. Good Luck!

2003 F350 Lariat King Ranch 6.0L 4x4 Dually
2005 Lower Center Dash (modified to fit) w/factory Upfitter install
Coolant filter, Fumoto Valves (Oil, L/R block plugs)
Delo ELC, Blue Spring Mod, DashBoss
Leece Neville 230 AMP Alternator, DH AGM Batteries
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