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'2007 F250 6.0L Starts Then Stall, now cranks with no start

3K views 12 replies 3 participants last post by  bismic 
#1 ·
Hi Guys,

I've got an 07 6.0 with 300000kms on it.

Today it was running perfectly fine. I shut it off for about 15 minutes to run some errands. When I came back out, I started it, got a "check gauges" message, and then it died.

Tried again, same thing but no message. Tried a few more times, cranks, starts, dies. When it starts it sounds like it's running fine.

Disconnected-reconnected the batteries. Cranks, starts a little rougher and dies. Tried again, this time it just cranks w/ no start.

All the normal buzz whirrs and whines are present when I cycle the key.

I also tried to start w/ ICP sensor unplugged & then again w/ egr unplugged, both times crank w/ no start.

I don't have a scan tool, so any suggestions before that step would be great.
 
#2 ·
You need a scan tool.

You can download a smart phone app for cheap (ForScan or Torque Pro).

You will need an ELM327 adapter (WiFi for iOS and bluetooth for Android).
 
#4 ·
They should, unless you have something real complicated going on.

Both are good. I think Torque Pro is a little easier to use and set up, but ForScan reads codes a little better.

Once you get a scan tool, we need the following information:

Key-on / Engine-off:
ICP pressure, psig
ICP volts
IPR %duty cycle
FICM MPower, volts
FICM LPower (logic), volts
FICM VPower (vehicle power), volts


Then we need the same data as above when cranking, but add:
cranking rpm
FICM sync
Cam/Crank sync

Lots of threads on setting up the Torque Pro. Not as many for ForScan.

Hopefully, when you try to start it next, it will start w/ a cold engine. In the meantime, make sure the batteries are fully charged. I like to even load test them individually before troubleshooting because you may be cranking quite a bit and weak batteries can cause starting problems!
 
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#6 ·
So the FICM voltage is the normal 48ish volts. Not dropping below 47.

Syncs are good.

ICP pressure is reading 0.0 Voltage is 0.2. Cranking and not. IPR is 14% not cranking and 85% when cranking.

The oil gauge is also not moving.

I just switched to a motorcraft oil filter, cranked, pulled the filter and it was dry.

Any suggestions?
 
#7 ·
With the oil filter out, crank w/ the starter solenoid wire jumped to the positive battery terminal while you watch the oil filter housing (or you can have someone crank w/ the key). See if the oil filter canister fills up. It should fill up in 10-12 seconds or 4-6 seconds with the filter canister drain valve pushed down (closed).

Sounds like you have an issue with low pressure oil flow. This will confirm it (or not).
 
#9 · (Edited)
With the oil filter out, crank w/ the starter solenoid wire jumped to the positive battery terminal while you watch the oil filter housing (or you can have someone crank w/ the key). See if the oil filter canister fills up. It should fill up in 10-12 seconds or 4-6 seconds with the filter canister drain valve pushed down (closed).

Sounds like you have an issue with low pressure oil flow. This will confirm it (or not).
Due to it being pretty cold here and sitting here over night I didn't really get the chance to crank it for too long.

I did crank it for about 5-10 seconds roughly 4 or 5 times and the filter was still dry in the end.

Unless there's something else relatively easy to check I will more than likely be bringing it to a shop on Monday as its getting beyond what I'm comfortable with.
You really need to be watching the oil filter bowl fill up (or not) with the cap off and the filter out (as suggested originally).

That said, it sounds like your low pressure oil pump is not working for some reason.

Assuming the oil level is good on the dipstick, you either have an oil pump pickup tube that has become dislodged or you have had some foreign object go through (and damage) the gears of the low pressure oil pump.
 
#8 ·
Due to it being pretty cold here and sitting here over night I didn't really get the chance to crank it for too long.

I did crank it for about 5-10 seconds roughly 4 or 5 times and the filter was still dry in the end.

Unless there's something else realtively easy to check I will more than likely be bringing it to a shop on Monday as its getting beyond what I'm comfortable with.
 
#10 ·
See if you are getting oil pressure while cranking. Should be able to see this inside the truck. If you are getting oil pressure its probably the IPR valve. Look up some videos on youtube and they will walk you through good trouble shooting procedures on the subject.
 
#11 · (Edited)
His oil filter is dry. If so, oil doesn't seem to be getting to the HPOP, let alone the IPR. He also did state his oil gauge isn't moving (post #6)

Regardless, he hasn't replied in 5 days to the simple oil filter bowl "fill test". It doesn't seem to be an issue anymore.
 
#13 ·
If the shop didn't rule out the high pressure oil system first, then I don't think much of the shop. While an HPOP can suck down the low pressure oil pressure, if the oil filter is truly dry, then how does the HPOP even get oil ......... That is why that EASY test of checking low pressure oil flow for yourself is very much worth doing FIRST.

Seems to me they are setting you up for an HPOP change (and the 05-07 HPOP's rarely go bad).

Best of luck ..........
 
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