2007 Ford F350 6.0 Diesel Wont run. - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com
6.0L Power Stroke Engine and Drivetrain Discussion of the 6.0L Power Stroke diesel engine and drivetrain in the 2003-Up Super Duties and Excursions. No gas engine discussion allowed except on transmissions and drivetrain that pertain to all models. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 6.0L Power Stroke engine.

 
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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 10-26-2019, 09:19 PM Thread Starter
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2007 Ford F350 6.0 Diesel Wont run.

First off I am new here so hope i am posting in the right section. I have never worked on a diesel nor owned one so i really dont know much about them nor have i ever owned a ford.

Recently i picked up a 2007 ford f350 cheap 6.0 with 106k on it 1 owner bone stock. It didn't start one day so the guy went and bought a new truck so thats how i got it.. he really didnt take care of it to well twards the end it appears. I charged up batteries filled it up with fuel it trys to catch/start but no dice white/black smoke but no go there is a code for 1 glow plug i am just goin to change them all. Also from me just turning it over trying to start it i noticed oil dripping underneath..bell housing/starter area was soaked and it appears it is coming from top of motor maybe and dripping down and the front it is soaked fresh oil all over Pic below. From just looking around i have heard a lot bout egr cooler? or bypass it idk.. not sure what one to get or what to do with it.. other then pulling boat and car trailer sometimes i am not towing every day. So basically just need some pointers on what to do to it/what i should check to get it running. I also just ordered a thing for my phone so i can use torque pro.

Last edited by jws123; 10-26-2019 at 09:23 PM.
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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 10-26-2019, 09:25 PM Thread Starter
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Also so i can top off the oil what is recommended oil weight to use? i plan to change oil and all filters ect soon after all leaks are found and fixed.

Last edited by jws123; 10-26-2019 at 09:32 PM.
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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 10-27-2019, 03:17 PM
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You're on the right track with Torque Pro - personally I use Forscan but the important element is to use something. There's a few key parameters you need to monitor but rather than me muddling through and missing some, just watch a couple of Dieseltech Ron's videos. He'll tell you everything you need to know and do it in an easy to understand manner.


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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 10-27-2019, 06:39 PM Thread Starter
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OK so i watched few diff vids ty lot of info I think its my ficm HOWEVER I am confused do i test when cranking or not? cause most dont show when cranking and it shows low voltage out the gate. With key on i got 47-48 volts when cranking its like.. 28-35v ect jumps all over does this mean bad? Also as of today it has 2 brand new batteries. Also any ideas on the oil leak? i really cant see where it comes from what is on top/front of the motor that can leak?

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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 10-27-2019, 08:44 PM
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OK so i watched few diff vids ty lot of info I think its my ficm HOWEVER I am confused do i test when cranking or not? cause most dont show when cranking and it shows low voltage out the gate. With key on i got 47-48 volts when cranking its like.. 28-35v ect jumps all over does this mean bad? Also as of today it has 2 brand new batteries. Also any ideas on the oil leak? i really cant see where it comes from what is on top/front of the motor that can leak?
My thread on no-start troubleshooting says to test it when cranking ............

If it is too long to read, then maybe you need to take it in and have it diagnosed.

If FICM MPower is below 43 volts when cranking then it (FICM) is bad or you have an issue w/ the electrical system.

Mark
06 F250 CC SB FX4 Lariat;ARP studs;OEM gaskets;Banks exhaust;DynaTrac Ball joints;Coolant filter;High-Idle mod;RACCCV6000;JimmiJammers;Ravelco;SynchroMax xfer case;Fumoto valve;Harpooned;CPOhighwayProducts toolbox;tracrac;Fox Weatherboots;Wet Okole Seat Covers;BriteBox;Re-flashed;Quadzilla Recon XZT Fuel Press;Blue FPR spring;DashDAQ;PHP FICM;RiffRaff boots;DCPower270A XP;PowerInverter;Rancho7000's;BPD EGR cooler;One-piece HPOP fitting;D-plugs&standpipes;BPD Billet WaterPump;SCT w/ Matts SRL+;ELC Ultra;DuraTracs
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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 10-27-2019, 09:10 PM Thread Starter
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My thread on no-start troubleshooting says to test it when cranking ............

If it is too long to read, then maybe you need to take it in and have it diagnosed.

If FICM MPower is below 43 volts when cranking then it (FICM) is bad or you have an issue w/ the electrical system.
Didn't see your thread before...I just ordered a new board going to fix the ficm myself looks easy.
Thanks.

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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 10-30-2019, 01:22 PM Thread Starter
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fixed the ficm and it fired right up now i just gotta fix the oil leaks and replace glow plugs. Also noticed the turbo shaft has some play in it... up and down i know in and out is normal.

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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 11-01-2019, 08:26 PM Thread Starter
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Turns out the oil cooler is shot so thats the leak. I gotta replace that next but how much up and down play is to much for the turbo? it has never been rebuilt 107k miles what mileage do you guys normally rebuild em at?

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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 11-01-2019, 10:01 PM
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If the turbo can't be pulled to the side and scrub the housing and bind then radial play is OK. The axial (shaft motion front to rear) is .035" or in the ball park of that. Turbos are loose as the bushings are just oil guides and no contact occurs. Once engine starts and there is oil pressure the turbo is running on the oil flowing into the bushings. Just behind the oil filter container is the oil pressure switch (1 wire) and the oil temp sensor (two wire). The oil pressure switches can leak or otherwise you have turbo drain tube, turbo oil supply tube seal, or oil cooler cover seal leaks if the oil run off the front like that. Unless it is parked downhill forward then leaks on top to the rear usually only go over the bell housing.

2015 F350 Platinum Max Tow What a beast with the 4.30 gears!
2006 F450 CC Hauler bed 4x2 6.0 L 6.0 auto, Lariat, 4.30 r/a, SCT, 4in exh. 103K New heads to repair diesel in coolant, 148K.
2006 F350 Lariat CC Dually 4X2, 6.0 auto 4.10 LS, SCT, airbags, 4 in. exh. 154K Rebuilt engine to repair damage from burned piston. One head to fix fuel in oil problem.
36 feet on the floor Elite/Outlaw LQ horse trailer.
35+5 foot double tandem axle flatbed trailer.
36 foot double tandem axle flatbed trailer
36 foot Platinum 6 horse LQ, side load, full width back tack
2003 EB Expedition 171K (no engine repairs, gas burners are the new longevity leaders)
2004 Volvo V70R AWD-high miler in fleet, 253K (no engine repairs) Hail totaled it but I kept it. Looks like a golf ball now.
Suzuki Carry KEI truck, 660cc 3 cyl DOHC EFI 4X4 5 speed RHD. Sort of a Smart Car sized pickup. Eats Gators and Mules for lunch.
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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 11-02-2019, 03:12 PM Thread Starter
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If the turbo can't be pulled to the side and scrub the housing and bind then radial play is OK. The axial (shaft motion front to rear) is .035" or in the ball park of that. Turbos are loose as the bushings are just oil guides and no contact occurs. Once engine starts and there is oil pressure the turbo is running on the oil flowing into the bushings. Just behind the oil filter container is the oil pressure switch (1 wire) and the oil temp sensor (two wire). The oil pressure switches can leak or otherwise you have turbo drain tube, turbo oil supply tube seal, or oil cooler cover seal leaks if the oil run off the front like that. Unless it is parked downhill forward then leaks on top to the rear usually only go over the bell housing.
Oh ok the turbo doesn't hit the walls or anything yet so maybe i am good for a bit probably going to pull and inspect it when i get a chance tho..
Also didnt think about the oil sensor it is in fact wet all around it would be awesome if that is the whole leak but think oil cooler leaks going to change sensor first maybe il get lucky.

Thanks.

Last edited by jws123; 11-02-2019 at 03:14 PM.
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post #11 of 14 (permalink) Old 11-02-2019, 07:16 PM Thread Starter
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Took it for a quick drive today and the fuel sending unit threw a code went to full then to E when it has half tank going to check grounds ect but how the hell is a new unit $300.... its not even a fuel pump lol.
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post #12 of 14 (permalink) Old 11-02-2019, 11:39 PM
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I work on a ton f these with that code and no ill effects. Sometimes dosing the fuel with auto trans fluid (cheapest old dexron stuff you can find) will clean fuel residue off the resistor face of the sending unit. You put a couple of quarts in a full tank. The fuel level needs to be high so it covers the sender. If it doesn't fix the sender it still is a good injector cleaner for older diesels but NOT for ones with DPF and also for SCR.

2015 F350 Platinum Max Tow What a beast with the 4.30 gears!
2006 F450 CC Hauler bed 4x2 6.0 L 6.0 auto, Lariat, 4.30 r/a, SCT, 4in exh. 103K New heads to repair diesel in coolant, 148K.
2006 F350 Lariat CC Dually 4X2, 6.0 auto 4.10 LS, SCT, airbags, 4 in. exh. 154K Rebuilt engine to repair damage from burned piston. One head to fix fuel in oil problem.
36 feet on the floor Elite/Outlaw LQ horse trailer.
35+5 foot double tandem axle flatbed trailer.
36 foot double tandem axle flatbed trailer
36 foot Platinum 6 horse LQ, side load, full width back tack
2003 EB Expedition 171K (no engine repairs, gas burners are the new longevity leaders)
2004 Volvo V70R AWD-high miler in fleet, 253K (no engine repairs) Hail totaled it but I kept it. Looks like a golf ball now.
Suzuki Carry KEI truck, 660cc 3 cyl DOHC EFI 4X4 5 speed RHD. Sort of a Smart Car sized pickup. Eats Gators and Mules for lunch.
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post #13 of 14 (permalink) Old 11-03-2019, 09:08 PM Thread Starter
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I work on a ton f these with that code and no ill effects. Sometimes dosing the fuel with auto trans fluid (cheapest old dexron stuff you can find) will clean fuel residue off the resistor face of the sending unit. You put a couple of quarts in a full tank. The fuel level needs to be high so it covers the sender. If it doesn't fix the sender it still is a good injector cleaner for older diesels but NOT for ones with DPF and also for SCR.
Ok thanks just put some injector cleaner in it and filled it up will do that a few times also I think the oil sensor was the oil leak cant tell 100% tho i tried to clean everything up so lot of residual oil ect. Otherwise it is ruining pre decent so far knock wood.
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post #14 of 14 (permalink) Old 11-06-2019, 04:59 PM Thread Starter
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Still leaking oil looks like i am going to get stuck doing oil cooler looks like its a ***** to do.. also noticed the other day it appears the EGR cooler was replaced at some point so thats a plus i guess..
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