6.0 White/grey smoke (lots), knocking on passenger side, no codes, no power loss, but definitely something????? - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com
6.0L Power Stroke Engine and Drivetrain Discussion of the 6.0L Power Stroke diesel engine and drivetrain in the 2003-Up Super Duties and Excursions. No gas engine discussion allowed except on transmissions and drivetrain that pertain to all models. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 6.0L Power Stroke engine.

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post #1 of 57 (permalink) Old 05-06-2014, 01:53 PM Thread Starter
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6.0 White/grey smoke (lots), knocking on passenger side, no codes, no power loss, but definitely something?????

Hello guys! I'm in need of some help (depending on if you ask the wife or not what kind of help I need..lol). I figured this will be one of three things, but I'll tell you what happened and let me know what you think. I'll try to shorten it up. Little background on the vehicle....2005 Excursion, 6.0, afe stage 2 intake, and rebuilt ficm from Ed with an atlas 40 program.

Bout a month and a half ago, we were coming home from family's place two hours away. Now mind you, we had no issues before this. When we stopped at a light, we felt a little surge and a little rough of an idle. My wife asked what that was and I just figured it was dirty injectors and that I'd clean them and we'd be good. So the next day, I picked up some BG244 poured it in and then filled the tank. BTW a little background......usually at every fill up I put in either the white or gray diesel keen/power service additive depending on time of year...
Bout 10 miles into drive, idle smoothed out BUT, I started getting a little white billowing smoke coming from pipe. Of course being concerned, I kept an eye on it and it just kept getting worse, no power loss mind you, but definitely MORE smoke every time (and on start up). With no power loss, I figured it was just burning out the crap that was gunked in there. WELL...........the last time I really drove it (before parking it til i figure it out) it started knocking on the passenger side and SMOKE like a freight train (seriously people behind me were pulling over and I was just hoping to get home without a ticket and a tow bill), but I finally made it home. It's been sitting or just moved ever since. I have had a couple of egr codes come up a while ago, but I just thought that it was just carbon build up and I just pulled the valve and replace rings/washer and clean it.

Thoughts? You know the knock isn't a rod or bearing issues I don't think because when I would step on the gas, the knocking would settle down and go away. Which kinda lead me to think that it was an injector/s. Especially with using the 244, I was thinking that it finally cleaned the gunked up injector/s enough that it just went south. But after talking to Ed at FICMrepair.com, he mentioned err/oil cooler failures possibly.....UGH! So i used my scanner and got not a single code to come up! Very frustrating! So what next? What do you guys think? I planned on (since the motor was going to be opened up anyway) changing out the stc fitting, blue spring kit, and new plugs.
Any guidance would be great! I really appreciate it!
Oh yeah.....another note....the smoke doesn't smell sweet and isn't bluish. It's thick white/grey and smells like the exhaust of a bobcat or backhoe if you know what I mean. Although, when I just moved it to the side of the house to work on it there cause its flat, getting it over the curb I had to gun it and it spewed thick grey/black smoke. Checked degas bottle and coolant level is full with no residue and engine has no real signs of hydrolocking. Like I said???????????????????????

Thanks again all!

Last edited by JCWolf; 05-06-2014 at 01:57 PM.
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post #2 of 57 (permalink) Old 05-06-2014, 02:44 PM
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A couple easy things to check first.

1) fuel pressure. Really low fuel pressure can cause those kind of issues. You need 45psig minimum under all conditions....idle to WOT.
2) EGR valve. If it's not seating all the way, it's letting exhaust into the intake when it shouldn't be. You can pull it and see if it's tightly seated. It shouldn't be that easy to move off its seat, either.

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post #3 of 57 (permalink) Old 05-06-2014, 06:45 PM
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I would also check fuel pressure. You may have an injector come loose. There is a new torque spec of 30 or 31 ft/lbs to help with the issue of injectors coming loose. If you have a code for any injectors, pull that one out and you'll probably find the o-rings are shot...been there, done that...but not before hydraulicing the motor with fuel. I ended up re-sealing all eight injectors torqued them down and never looked back.

2005 F-350 CC, LB, 4x4, Dually, 6.0 Powerstroke, Torqueshift, 4:10 Gears. Gooseneck and rear pull hitches. "Truck Covers USA" roll up aluminum tonneau cover. Putco Boss Running Boards. Aluminum finned diff covers. Bilstein HD shocks. ProComp steering stabilizer. XRF ball joints. NC Hornet CCV mod. RCD egr delete kit. AirDog fuel system. Strictly Diesel's regulated fuel and coolant return lines kits. Amsoil oil bypass (by NUC Motorsports) and homebuilt coolant bypass kits. CFM intake elbow. ARP head studs with factory gaskets and all upgrades. FICM by Ed with Atlas 40 tune, DC Power 185 amp alternator, MBRP 304SS "Cool Dual" exhaust system. SCT Livewire tuner with pyrometer. Autometer 'A' pillar gauges (Boost/Trans temp/Pyrometer/Fuel Pressure). 850 CCA Motorcraft Batteries. Using Rotella T-6 synthetic oil. Upgraded degas tank and cap. Hayes deep aluminum trans pan. GoGo Diesel modified direct clutch solenoid. Retro Solutions HID head and fog lights. High idle mod. Jimmi-Jammers. +More.
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post #4 of 57 (permalink) Old 05-06-2014, 07:04 PM
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Plus 2: What Mac and ForeverFord said.

I had similar symptoms as you described. It was diagnosed (correctly) as an injector.
You need a scanner capable of running an injector contribution test. That will identify an offending injector, if any.

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post #5 of 57 (permalink) Old 05-08-2014, 01:19 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks guys!.....so next steps...How to check the fuel pressure? And why kind of scanner do I need to do what I need to do?
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post #6 of 57 (permalink) Old 05-12-2014, 09:19 AM
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Definitely sounds like an injector problem. If you drive the truck with it over fueling a cylinder, you run the risk of burning a piston so get it fixed before you end up needing a rebuild.
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post #7 of 57 (permalink) Old 05-12-2014, 11:03 AM
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The knock is likely just a fuel knock, but you've got a fuel pressure or injector issue, maybe one is leaking and fueling all the time. A contribution test will show this though.

I would also add that I used to also run 1/2 bottle of Diesel Kleen every tank, but think that may have been contributing to some intermittent smoking I was experiencing. I had an injector that was just a tad out of spec that I replaced as well, but what really seems to have stopped it was discontinuing the use of the Diesel Kleen. Now I dump a quart of 2-stroke oil in it at every fill up and think I'm doing the best I can for lubricity doing that. I may run some Diesel Kleen through it once a year just to make sure everything is cleaned out, but I think its a product that can be overused. And no, I don't think that's what's causing your problem, though it may be exacerbating it.

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post #8 of 57 (permalink) Old 05-13-2014, 05:33 PM Thread Starter
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Ok, so I found an AE scanner for 200...the sp03 package. I'll get it this weekend and then off to the races! Any precautions as far as using the scanner? I don't want to run the engine too much in case the above mentioned problems exist....know what i mean?! lol
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post #9 of 57 (permalink) Old 05-21-2014, 12:47 PM Thread Starter
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Ok....so I got the scanner all situated and while my regular hand held scanner said nothing, right off the bat with the ae scanner I got injector 1/injector 5 p codes along with a p code for low fuel. My battery died cause the truck hasn't been run, so I'm currently charging the battery now so that I can get the exact p code numbers. You still think I need to do a balance test, or is what I got already the answer I was looking for? Oh and if I do have to run the motor, for scanner purposes, should I be concerned with doing any excess damage (knocking already and possibly hydrolock)? Thanks all!

Last edited by JCWolf; 05-21-2014 at 12:51 PM.
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post #10 of 57 (permalink) Old 05-21-2014, 06:16 PM
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I wouldn't worry about running it. So long as you don't load the engine it shouldn't hurt it. A hydrolock is possible, but remote, even with a constantly leaking injector. It'll tend to just smoke a lot.

Get the exact codes first, then let's see what they are. Sometimes those codes seem injector related, but are actually FICM related. I've never heard of a 6.0 knocking from an FICM, but there's a first time for everything.

'06 F250 4x4 - 5" Flo Pro exhaust, SB Filter intake, Accufab elbow, Edge Evolution (monitoring only), SCT w/ ID custom tune, FASS 195 pump, Gillette Diesel EGR cooler delete, Sinister Diesel coolant filter, ELC coolant, updated turbo drain tube/oil feed line/STC fitting/oil cooler, ARPs w/OEM HGs, Elite coolant lines, ITP RR fuel system, RCD 175/30 injectors, Powermax, BD CCV, FICM.com FICM w/ ID tune, Elite UP, BPD water pump - 13.069 @ 101.94

'02 WRX - Outback rear disc swap, EBC green pads, DBA pillar vane rotors, TXS UP/TBE/TMIC, Perrin LW crank pulley, PPG billet steel shift forks, ACT Streetlite flywheel & clutch, K&N filter, STi Group N motor/trans mounts, TiC/Kartboy rear diff mounts/subframe lock bolts/outrigger stiffeners, Kartboy SS & all shifter bushings, custom PDX tune for Cobb AP - went 14.1 on a terrible 60ft before most of these mods; shooting for 13.50s
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post #11 of 57 (permalink) Old 05-23-2014, 02:41 PM Thread Starter
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Well....I got it running. First small feat done. Ran the scanner and the results I got were kinda not what I expected. When I did the power balance test, it seemed to be mostly balanced. Odd, since I have the knock and a ton of smoke. But when I did the engine test, it revved up and then threw a P0275 code for Injector 5 stating a contribution/balance fault. I also got a P0263 code for injector 1, stating the same thing. Nothing else.
So I guess I'm going to assume that my injectors are done and thats the issue? My ficm was just rebuilt last spring by Ed, so I don't think that could be the problem. I did test the voltage on it and it was 48.5v.
Let me know what you all think cause I'm ready to get this thing tore down and fixed asap!

Thanks Again!
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post #12 of 57 (permalink) Old 05-23-2014, 02:47 PM
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Did you happen to pull any injectors out?

2005 F-350 CC, LB, 4x4, Dually, 6.0 Powerstroke, Torqueshift, 4:10 Gears. Gooseneck and rear pull hitches. "Truck Covers USA" roll up aluminum tonneau cover. Putco Boss Running Boards. Aluminum finned diff covers. Bilstein HD shocks. ProComp steering stabilizer. XRF ball joints. NC Hornet CCV mod. RCD egr delete kit. AirDog fuel system. Strictly Diesel's regulated fuel and coolant return lines kits. Amsoil oil bypass (by NUC Motorsports) and homebuilt coolant bypass kits. CFM intake elbow. ARP head studs with factory gaskets and all upgrades. FICM by Ed with Atlas 40 tune, DC Power 185 amp alternator, MBRP 304SS "Cool Dual" exhaust system. SCT Livewire tuner with pyrometer. Autometer 'A' pillar gauges (Boost/Trans temp/Pyrometer/Fuel Pressure). 850 CCA Motorcraft Batteries. Using Rotella T-6 synthetic oil. Upgraded degas tank and cap. Hayes deep aluminum trans pan. GoGo Diesel modified direct clutch solenoid. Retro Solutions HID head and fog lights. High idle mod. Jimmi-Jammers. +More.
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post #13 of 57 (permalink) Old 05-23-2014, 02:52 PM Thread Starter
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Not yet....was just waiting to see what my options were before jumping into the motor. I figure it won't be too bad. If I can change out an HPOP on a 7.3, this should be ok lol.
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post #14 of 57 (permalink) Old 05-23-2014, 04:07 PM Thread Starter
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My next question is, should I just replace those two? OR replace all of them?
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post #15 of 57 (permalink) Old 05-23-2014, 04:47 PM
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With two on a common bank I'd do all four on that bank.

'06 F250 4x4 - 5" Flo Pro exhaust, SB Filter intake, Accufab elbow, Edge Evolution (monitoring only), SCT w/ ID custom tune, FASS 195 pump, Gillette Diesel EGR cooler delete, Sinister Diesel coolant filter, ELC coolant, updated turbo drain tube/oil feed line/STC fitting/oil cooler, ARPs w/OEM HGs, Elite coolant lines, ITP RR fuel system, RCD 175/30 injectors, Powermax, BD CCV, FICM.com FICM w/ ID tune, Elite UP, BPD water pump - 13.069 @ 101.94

'02 WRX - Outback rear disc swap, EBC green pads, DBA pillar vane rotors, TXS UP/TBE/TMIC, Perrin LW crank pulley, PPG billet steel shift forks, ACT Streetlite flywheel & clutch, K&N filter, STi Group N motor/trans mounts, TiC/Kartboy rear diff mounts/subframe lock bolts/outrigger stiffeners, Kartboy SS & all shifter bushings, custom PDX tune for Cobb AP - went 14.1 on a terrible 60ft before most of these mods; shooting for 13.50s
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