Can I Change to ARP Studs w/o Pulling Heads? - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com
6.0L Power Stroke Engine and Drivetrain Discussion of the 6.0L Power Stroke diesel engine and drivetrain in the 2003-Up Super Duties and Excursions. No gas engine discussion allowed except on transmissions and drivetrain that pertain to all models. Please confine discussion of topics in this forum to those items that are specific to the 6.0L Power Stroke engine.

 
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 03-13-2018, 09:19 PM Thread Starter
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Can I Change to ARP Studs w/o Pulling Heads?

Is it possible to change over to ARP studs without pulling the heads? My head gaskets are still OK (no leaks, no oil in coolant, etc). Can you pull the head bolts one at a time and replace with studs without pulling the heads? Should I leave well enough alone until I have a problem?

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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 03-13-2018, 09:46 PM
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There has been a bunch of threads on this subject. About 50-50 on both sides, I personally wouldnÂ’t do a head on one at a time swap.

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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 03-14-2018, 07:55 AM
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Thousands have done it,may not admit online,but done everyday,readup,take your time,use a good torque wrench,if you blow a gasket later you already have the studs.I done a few for friends never a problem but its a chance you take.
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 03-19-2018, 08:35 PM
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I just pulled my heads "cab on" and installed ARP studs, and put new gaskets on, and put the freshly machined heads back on....what a pain in the butt!!

I'm pretty sure that you will have one hell of a time pulling the rear head bolts out of the heads......the firewall will be in the way. I had to pull the heads out with the rear bolts zip-tied up and still in the head. I don't think there is any way you can actually pull the bolts out with the heads still on the motor...unless you cut the bolts off, or beat the hell out of the firewall to get some clearance. The head bolts are around 9"-10" long.....take a close look at the back of your cylinder heads and image pulling your head bolts out 10" to gain clearance......there just isn't room.

Also...have you put a pressure gauge on your coolant system and see what kind of pressures you are running? I wasn't losing coolant, smoking, puking any coolant, or any of the other "common" things that usually happen with a head gasket failure......but when I put a gauge on my coolant system I saw that the pressures were getting up to 16psi, and then the cap on the degas bottle would slowly start venting coolant. I had a very small head gasket leak....and unless I put the gauge on the coolant system, I would have never known in.......until I pulled something really heavy, then it probably would have started puking coolant.

How many miles are on your truck?? I know it sucks to pay for (or do it yourself) head gaskets and studs......but these motors are hard on head gaskets, it's better to just bite the bullet and do it.
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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 03-19-2018, 09:14 PM
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Have to dent the firewall some or unbolt the mounts and tilt engine,can be done with a little time.
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 03-20-2018, 05:06 AM
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Unbolt trans mount, Ratchet strap tail of transmission to gain the clearance you need.

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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 03-20-2018, 06:45 AM
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When I pulled my heads off a few weeks ago, even after taking the drivers side engine mount off of the motor, and jacking it up, and lowering it down to get clearance.....I still wasn't able to get the rear bolt(s) out of either head......I had to just lift them up and zip-tie them out of the way. Same with getting the studs in....I put the rear ones in the heads and zip-tied them up out of the way before I set the heads back on the block.....and that was really tight. I know people have done it....I just don't see how.
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 03-20-2018, 10:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iqraceworks View Post
When I pulled my heads off a few weeks ago, even after taking the drivers side engine mount off of the motor, and jacking it up, and lowering it down to get clearance.....I still wasn't able to get the rear bolt(s) out of either head......I had to just lift them up and zip-tie them out of the way. Same with getting the studs in....I put the rear ones in the heads and zip-tied them up out of the way before I set the heads back on the block.....and that was really tight. I know people have done it....I just don't see how.
When you ratchet strap the transmission to the frame rail and give it a tug, it gives you the room to pull the last bolt out, repete to other side and that one will come out as well.

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